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StevenGuthmiller

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Everything posted by StevenGuthmiller

  1. I use Novus polishes all of the time. Zero issues whatsoever with foil adhesion. Steve
  2. Gorgeous! Nice choice of colors! I bought one a few years back & built it, & it still stands as one of the most expensive kits that I ever bought! Probably not one of the prettiest cars or most desirable kits, but definitely rare and still my all time Holy Grail kit! Very nice work Mike!! Steve No paint on mine either! The plastic was so nice, I left it alone!
  3. I think you're correct. I believe that it was Jimmy Shine's girlfriend's car. It was in this late scene that she arrived to pick him up. Steve
  4. Just in case anyone is interested, I finally decided that it was time to leave the Photobucket "broken link" era behind me, so I took some time & replaced all of those annoying Photobucket "3rd party hosting" banners with shiny new photos from Fotki on all of my past "Under Glass" posts. I had to do it just because it really aggravates me every time I go back a ways to look at anyone's older posts & see nothing but that stupid banner. At least now, if anyone wants to go back and look at my old under glass posts. they will have something to look at! Steve
  5. At this point, I'm planning on being there. I live near Fargo North Dakota and have a wedding to attend in Iowa that weekend, so it will be a lot of driving, but it's in my plans. Steve
  6. You nailed it! The car in Hollywood Knights was exactly my inspiration. I may have gone a little overboard, but I took some liberties with the interior. Steve
  7. It started as an original AMT built kit. Part of the reason why I decided to do it as a mild custom was because AMT made the mistake of producing the Starliner with the Sunliner script on the front fender, so it needed to be removed. Here's what it looked like when I got it. Steve
  8. I agree with you on the scale of the metallic particles in most paints. It is a big disappointment to see an exceptionally well built & detailed model with a paint job that makes it look like a bass boat! But I have to disagree about the options for a good metallic silver paint. While it is very difficult to get any metallic paints with the "correct" scale particles for 1/25th scale models, vendors like MCW are consistently better than most. These kits were all done with varying shades of metallic MCW silver & gray, and for our purposes, you'll be hard pressed to find anything better. Not that the options you mention are not good, but there are plenty of other alternatives. Steve
  9. Chances are very good that the Testors "Dullcote" will not harm the acrylic paint. Testors "lacquers" are generally very mild. I have sprayed Testors clear gloss lacquer over pretty much everything with no issues, but you might want to take Snake's advice & test it before using it. Keep in mind that spraying a flat clear over the paint will result in an all out flat finish. you won't get a "matte" or "semi gloss" finish with a dull coat. If you have an airbrush, Testors does carry those finishes in their acrylic bottle paint line. I believe that they also carry some semi gloss clears in rattle cans, but I'm not positive which ones & whether or not they are acrylics, enamels or lacquers. In the future you can dull down gloss paints with a touch of corn starch mixed into the paint. Steve
  10. I agree. I usually take off the tip & pull out the needle and clean them with a little thinner once I have finished using it for the day, but there's really no need to completely disassemble & clean all of the parts each time, and the amount of lacquer thinner I use is insignificant. Steve
  11. Honestly, the amount of lacquer thinner required to clean an airbrush is so minuscule it barely requires comment. You can dump a half a teaspoon full of thinner into your cup and shoot it through the airbrush onto a scrap of cardboard. That is basically all that's needed to keep an airbrush clean, and there's nothing to dispose of there. If you feel it's necessary to go beyond that, break down the brush, pour out a cap full of thinner and clean the parts with a Q-tip dipped in it. Any of the cap full of thinner that's left and too dirty to be returned to the container can be left out in a small receptacle to evaporate. There really shouldn't be anything to dispose of. If you're using enamel paint, you can use mineral spirits to clean your brush, but the likelihood of it plugging up on you are much higher than if you clean it with lacquer thinner. Steve
  12. When did lacquer thinner become "illegal"? Steve
  13. x2. I guess that it's probably a good thing that I never got involved in all of the social media stuff. I spend 90% of my time online on a few forums, ebay & Amazon. I don't think that I can get into a whole lot of trouble that way. Steve
  14. Actually the Plymouth grille is from a Johan 1959 Plymouth. As far as the '59 Pontiac bumpers go, where ever they are from, they're way out of whack! They're just "barely" reminiscent of a '59 Pontiac! Steve
  15. That was easy! But unfortunately, the resin top is no longer available. The top & the continental kit are from Modelhaus. Steve
  16. As far as I'm concerned, embossing powder is the ONLY solution. It looks much more realistic & is exceedingly easier to apply than anything that comes in a sheet. As far as color options go, if you do a couple of quick online searches, you can find almost any color that you can imagine. I love these metallic embossing powders. They may not always fit the bill, but they give you that great "salt & pepper" look found in a lot of vintage cars. Steve
  17. Looks like felt to me. Steve
  18. It's a two way street. Steve
  19. What type of BMF did you have? "New Improved" or "Ultra Bright"? Steve
  20. Why do people post questions & then disappear? If it's not important enough for the OP to respond, why should it be important enough for us to offer solutions. Steve
  21. I use a very similar method. Steve
  22. Exactly my method. Just keep in mind that even a "very slightly" darker color than the body color will look much darker once in the panel line. Plus the fact that these paints seem to dry darker than when they are wet. I still frequently wind up with my panel lines too dark. Steve
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