Snake45

It won't go through--the system doesn't work for me for some reason. You can email me at SnakeACP45 at AOL dot com Thanks!

I'm always looking for Torq-Thrusts, Cragars, Keystones, and chrome reverse wheels.

Very sharp! A real time machine back to the '70s. Well done and model on!

I feel ya my brotha. I don't do that much foil work but in some cases--such as the model I'm working on right now--it's not only the best way to do the trim, it's actually the easiest way. I still dread every cut.

I'm currently working on "rescuing" a glue bomb of this kit. I didn't like the way the front bumper/headlights fit the body, and I must have spent a couple hours of careful trimming and fitting to get it to an acceptable appearance. Looks like yours might have the same problem. If you can improve that area, you'll be glad you did in the finished product. Good luck and drive on!

Finding suitable wheels and tires for what I want to do seems to give me the most trouble these days. After that, probably trim work. I'm pretty comfortable with bodywork and painting and polishing at this point, but I never enjoy doing the window trim, chrome trim, emblems, etc.

TS-60 looks more like what you want.

Lately I've been having good luck with Rustoleum "High Lustre Coating" clear gloss lacquer from Walmart. Goes on easily, polishes out to a nice shine without too much effort. It's my new go-to clear.

Yes, just clearcoat it. The Model Master lacquer system was based on flat basecoats with clear glosses. About 30 years ago I painted this Camaro with Model Master military Flat Interior Green 34151 and clearcoated it with Model Master Clear Top Coat enamel. Came out fine.

Started the foilwork on my Shelf of Doom BOYD build '66 Skylark. Got the foil that I laid on the hood vents around 2014 trimmed away, finally after all these years. Took nearly an hour--that foil adhesive must metastacize after all that time. Then I got the foil laid down on the right side, and about half of that trimmed off. Hope to finish the foiling tomorrow, and then drag the poor old thing across the finish line. Here's what I started with today.

Slixx has a number of similar decal sheets, but not that one specifically: https://ecsvr.com/slx/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=1&subcat=93&cat=Gassers+minis

I just looked at NHRA rulebooks (1962 and 1965 through 1968) and (as usual) you're absolutely right. (MSP was gone for 1968, so '67 must have been the last year for them.) The MSP rules were included in the same section as the Gas Coupes and Street Roadsters, so the Gasser rules applied in general, but there were several important exceptions noted for MSPs. The engine setback you mention (25%) is one. Another is the frame: Gassers had to have a stock automotive type frame (though not necessarily stock to that car, if I'm reading correctly), but MSPs were specifically allowed any type of frame (i.e., tubular space frames). The idea here was apparently to allow homebuilt sports cars of the day to compete, both street sports cars and road racers. Your typical Corvette or '55-'57 T-Bird MSP with stock engine location should have been easily able to transition into the Gas class in 1968 and after. Some other sports cars would have had to move up to Altered class, exactly as you said. Thanks for clarifying for us all!

What a great idea, and what a great looking model! Makes me want a "stock" version in a single color (less distracting) paint job. Well done and model on!

Now I've laid out eBay bucks for a couple glue bomb 1G Novas, too, which require extensive restoration/rework to be presentable. Hope to get at least one done this year, so I'm still working for getting these two new kits produced for all of us.

Yes, let it soak. Could take anywhere from just a few hours to 24 or 48. Rubbing alcohol will remove many/most of the old AMT and Pactra lacquers, as well as the modern Testor lacquers and SOME kinds of Krylon and other cheap rattlecan paints. Can't say how it works on real-car-grade lacquers.

She was a great psycho in Play Misty for Me.

Very clean build of a kit you don't see too often. Well done and model on!

I once tipped over my original (circa 1970) bottle of Solvaset, which I thought would last me the rest of my life. When I got a new bottle, I found out the formula had been changed and the new stuff wasn't nearly as strong/effective as it originally was. DOH! I THINK Solvaset is based on common rubbing alcohol diluted, but I've never been able to find the formulas for either the old or new stuff, or what else might be in it.

In one of the NHRA rulebooks, I forget which one, maybe around '65 or '66, There's a photo of a Corvette coupe gasser sitting MUCH higher than the "lower edge of the body must not be higher than the axle centerlines" rule allows--right across from the page where that rule is stated! I spent about 20 minutes in the GK site yesterday and didn't get halfway through the gassers. It is a GREAT resource for getting the feel of what these things really looked like back in the day.

The Modified Sports class used basically the same rules as the Gassers (so did the Street Roadsters) as far as allowable and prohibited modifications and so forth. The MSP class eventually went away and the cars got incorporated into the Gas classes, probably with few if any modifications. This MIGHT (I'd have to look at the rulebooks) have had something to do with wheelbases. When NHRA shortened the wheelbase length requirement around 1966 to let the Anglias in, that might have been when the MSPs went away.

There's a guy I regularly buy from (eBay) who must only ship once a week. I've won auctions and it doesn't even leave him for sometimes 7 days or more. I've learned that it WILL come through if I'm patient, though. You can send the the seller a message through the eBay system and politely ask Whazzup? That's how I'd start.

Testor now has it in the little bottles in their regular line.

Thanks! My take on the classic but cartoonish Monogram Badman kit.

Might be better than the kit hood, which is noticeably too narrow.