Snake45

That's pretty cool! Reminds me of the Boeing Dnya-Soar.

And don't forget diecasts. There are a number of reasonably priced 1/24 diecasts of cars that have never been kitted, or are no longer available at affordable prices. And I can name a few that are actually better than commonly available "mainstream" kits. Last time I counted I had somewhere around 100 of them.

Finished the first season of Ozark last night. Thanks to those of you who recommended it! It's great--probably just as good as Breaking Bad, maybe even better, if that's possible. One interesting contrast I've noticed: When Walter White was cornered, he'd tell a lie. When Marty Bird is cornered, he tells the truth, and then somehow talks the other person into doing what he wants them to anyway.

My standards are pretty low--maybe THE lowest among the semi-serious or better modelers here. Ask anybody. But the two things I demand of a kit are that it look pretty much like what it's supposed to be--or can be made to look like it without too much time or effort--and that it be pretty much the right size. Meet those two criteria and I can take it from there. IMHO there's no excuse in the year 2020 to put out a new kit that can't cross those two simple hurdles. Life's too short to waste time on bad kits. Not when I've got a pile of good ones yet to build. Model on, everyone!

Very, VERY cool! I just bought a glue bomb early Nova off ebay yesterday and I HOPE I can make it into something that looks this good. Well done and model on!

It's six weeks, but seeing the amount of work you have/want to do, I can see that it would be tight. I wouldn't want you to rush it just for the sake of a stupid group build. But if you do want to participate, you can wait and "register" it after the 1st of October (assuming, as always, that there will BE another round), which deadline would be December 31. Or as I said, you can go ahead and join now, and then "extend" through the end of the year. That's 4 1/2 months. It's completely up to you. We'd be glad to have you aboard, but if you decide the group build's not for you, that's fine too. Drive on and model well!

That's how my store does it. Sometimes some clearance price tags on the shelves.

If I were moving a valuable coin collection, it would have gone in the trunk of the car with me, not in with the rest of the junk to be moved. If that weren't possible for some reason, I'd have made the head of the moving crew sign a receipt for it, letting him know that you'd be holding him personally responsible for its delivery.

Looks great! Great color and finish, too. Well done and model on!

Just post a picture of the condition it's in now, and tell us how long ago you started it and how long it's been stalled. Deadline for completion this round is September 30. We do allow extension for ONE additional round (3 months) if you don't make it, but we don't let things drag out forever--the idea after all is to GITTER DONE!

I tried it, thought it was probably the same thing as Black Chrome Trim. I don't think it is. Looks a little shinier, and doesn't "flow" quite as well. But looks like I'm stuck with it from now on.

Very very VERY most way cool project! And it would be eligible and most welcomed into our famous Bring Out Your Dead completion build if want to join. Good luck and drive on!

An inaccurate, wrong, or badly fitting model is still inaccurate, wrong, or badly fitting whether it's new or old. Revell's Nova wasn't a huge improvement over AMT's in some ways, in fact to get an accurate Nova you have to kitbash the two of them together. And remember Revellogram's first two attempts at the '70 AAR Cuda? They certainly didn't do us any favors with either of those kits.

Just clear-coat the metallic and polish that out, no problem. Done it dozens of times. I have a short list of metallic paints I've been able to polish out without clearcoating: Model Master Arctic Blue and Model Master Honduras Maroon (sadly, now long discontinued).

What do you bet that that they just barely get that Riv finished in the nick of time for the 2021 show?

Probably because the USA has always been more of a "car culture" than the UK. Or just about anyplace else on Earth I can think of.

Not rare or desirable enough for a complete teardown and rebuild. Paint's not in good enough shape for a "Snake-Fu rescue." If I HAD to do something with it, I'd mix a little tan and/or light gray paint into Dullcoat and start airbrushing it until I'd reached a credible level of "barn find dirt/dust" overall. The yellow would have to go first, of course.

Oh no! Now what will all the car builder TV shows do for Deadline Drama?

I'm gonna see if the the edge of the "trough" can be brought down. If not, I'll fill it. I'm doing a green one in polished plastic so filling isn't an option there. I'll have to either take it down or live with it.

Very nice, very cleanly built! Model on!

Oh my that is a cool one! I hadn't seen it before. Rear wheel openings look kinda close to the AMT kit. Interesting that it seems to have Shelby roof windows and a Shelby grille, too. And American TTs and Enderle bug-catchers are ALWAYS cool! Daddy likes! The metallic is finer than a metalflake, but flakier than a factory metallic paint job. It would looks good as a "day two" paint job. Remember, you don't have to stay with factory colors for this build. It's a bit translucent so you will need several coats, and the primer will definitely have an influence. The one car I use it as an overall color, I "primed" with Model Master Italian Red (an orange-y red). Airbrushed about three coats. When I polished it out, it went blotchy on me (as I learned that metallics will do more often than not) so I shot a couple more coats and then a couple coats of MM Clear Top Coat enamel and polished that out and it looked great. Next time I use it, I'll put it over flat white or flat yellow primer, unless I want to darken it, in which case I'd shoot it over black primer. It's still in the pipeline as Model Master SLR in the "big" bottles, and Testor also now has it in the "little bottle" line, same stuff. My Hobby Lobby has both sizes. Beware, I think they also make it in Acrylic now.

The 4 door isn't an SS. The regular 2DHT is the SS.

'65 Rangoon Red is, I believe, the same color as '66-'67 Candyapple Red. It's the color Eliminator II was. When I build my Eliminator II, I'm going to use Testor #4 Dark Red. As this is a heavily-modified race car, there's no reason to limit yourself to the factory color palette. Though if you want to, you can also use the '66 chart--there's nothing to distinguish this '65 Mustang body from a '66. It could be either. Testor/Model Master Stop Light Red is a nice red metallic that makes a great color coat.

Clear-coat it and polish it out and it'll look great! Drive on!

https://public.fotki.com/drasticplasticsmcc/mkiba-build-under-c/monogram-instructions/automotive-cars--pi/chevrolet/1961-1970/monogram-corvette-s/