Snake45

The problem is obvious: Your truck is too new and/or in too good condition. If you'd been driving something rattier, the jerk would have picked on somebody else. Remember Snake's Law of Right of Way: The bigger, older, junkier, and/or more beat-up vehicle always has the right of way. (Also, please don't even joke about "concealed carry license" that way. Thank you. )

The AMT '65 Chevy II funny car ones might work for you.

ALL two-tone paint jobs are not "Posies-style," folks. Just sayin'.

You've dodged a bullet!

If it's stripped and spinning in the hole, it's not holding anything. Your chassis must be glued somewhere.

Got the remaining bodywork finished on my '66 Mustang street freak, I think. Should be ready for primer.

Yes, I have two glue-bombs of that, one of which I'm going to rebuild into something.

Yes, thanks!

I did not prime those bumpers, but I DID test it on the underside of the promo's interior tub before I used it "for real." I suggest you test in a similar manner on the plastic you want to paint.

That's interesting, because their '67 kit didn't have Rally wheels. (Or did they add those for the mid-year Pace Car version?)

I've owned the AMT and MPC 1st Gen Camaros, none were molded in blue and none had a hood like that. Also, notice it doesn't have the cutouts to match the cowl vents on a 1G Camaro. My WAG would be an MPC '70s Nova or Chevelle of some sort.

A little progress. Started trying to see what would be necessary to make the grille work with the body somewhat. I taped the '34's too-short hood to the body just to give me a better idea of the extended body line. My first try showed that "the line" wouldn't come anywhere near the grille, but also that there wasn't much room under the hood, much less for the tall tunnel-ram manifold I'm planning to use. First job was to come up with some body mounts to un-channel it a bit--it was really hanging over the frame. Jacked it up about 3 scale inches, which helped a lot. Then I noticed that the engine was sitting at what seemed to be an extreme angle, so I filed down the frame's engine mounts to get it a little closer to level. Much better! I can even take it down a little more, but I think I have enough under-hood room (whether or not I actually use a hood). Here I've notched the grille shell to get it to sit lower. Not quite there yet, but getting close. There's still plenty of room between the bottom edge and the ground, so looks like I won't need to section or shorten it. That's a relief! At this point the plan is to drive on and finish it up without a hood, and then maybe seeing about Snake-ineering up a hood of some sort. We'll see what happens. I also might go even bigger on the rear tires, dunno yet. The frame, suspension and wheels/tires are all straight out of the MPC '32 SD box, no changes or modifications at all.

Thanks for all the kinds words! Model on, everyone!

Hey Surfer, thought you might get a kick out of this. It's kind of the grandfather of both our respective builds. (If you object to me posting it here, I'll be glad to delete it.) In 1965, Paul Sable built this A/FX Mustang from an AMT annual 1965 kit. It appeared in the February 1966 Car Model magazine. I found it on eBay last year and rescued it and restored it. Someday I need to do the full writeup on it and post it Under Glass--the photos are done, I just need to write it up.

A friend taught me a valuable lesson about asymmetry: "You can't see both sides at the same time anyway."

I like the color on the Sea Fury. What's the paint? And what's the kit? BTW, folks, it is MUCH harder to get a high-gloss paint job on an airplane than it is on a car, so, well done!

I've never had that problem with cheap lacquer thinner and enamels. I HAVE had EXACTLY that problem, though, when thinning with naphtha (lighter fluid). Works great, flows out smooth, dries fast and hard, but any leftover turns to jello in about a week. Last year I used some MM enamel I thinned with Walmart lacquer thinner over a decade ago, and it was as good as it was the day I mixed it.

It wasn't completely through when I took the picture, but as I was doing some final sanding in the area, it opened up a cavity. Did some poking around with knife tip and some more opened up--pretty much the whole dark area in the pic. I refilled it all from the front with the SG gel. Felt like a model dentist. Better to find that now than when I painted it, or polished it out!

I'll bet that bottle was acrylic, not enamel. Did the same thing a couple decades ago with a bottle of Poly-Scale.

Oh, one other mod I made. I sanded the rear edge of the side "cove" back to a straight line. On the kit body, it's curved to match the wheel opening, which kind of makes sense with the original size and the lip. Doesn't need to be that way now, and I think it looks better straightened out.

Tolja so!

YES!

Yup.

Thanks!