Snake45

What IS the deal with that hood? Is it from some other kit?

Very interesting! The late-model Mustang could possibly be from Revell, but I can't recall a '68 Mustang 1/24 snapper. All new? Adaptation of their diecast?

I think Round 5 was your first with this project, so extension into Round 6 is no problem.

Might be a starting point.

That's gorgeous! You're in--MIsha too. Now GITTER DONE!

Easy Off does its best work in the first 20-30 minutes. Then hit it with an old toothbrush under warm running water. If NO paint at all comes off, you can forget EO, as it will never work on that paint. Repeat as necessary. It can take 4 or 5 or more treatments to get all the paint off, but it can be done in one afternoon. It's much easier to toss the body in a sealable Tupperware thing full of Super Clean, which is actually the same chemical as EO (lye). Let it soak 24 hours, come back and wash it off with the old toothbrush under warm running water. No muss, no fuss. This treatment will take 95%+ of the paint off in one shot, if it's gonna work at all. If nothing happens, time to move on to some other chemical.

You'd think the GTO frame would be a drop in, but it wasn't quite. It needed to be shortened at the rear, and narrowed behind the rear wheel wells. And then to get it to settle up into the body properly, I had to file the heck out of the top of the chassis and the bottom of the interior, both in the area of the rear seat. You can almost see through the plastic in both areas now. I was surprised that I didn't have to take anything off the front to clear the Chevelle front bumper, though.

We're looking for a little more progress than that.... That's what I'm talkin' about--some kind of actual progress! Drive on!

I thought it might be fun to have a What Did You Accomplish Today thread. This is where you could note something you got done today that’s not worth a Workbench thread, not even worth the trouble of taking and posting a pic, but something that you’re pleased you got done and moves your model car project forward in some significant way. For example: I’ve been working on bringing a ’67 Impala promo back from the dead. Rescued from eBay, it came without any wheels or tires. It still has the friction motor axle in the front, but nothing in the rear. The holes in the chassis are, of course, bigger than typical kit wire axle holes. And then, ’67 Impala wheels are not exactly thick on the ground. I decided not to worry about the wheels until I got the rest of the thing done, but I’ve reached that point. So yesterday I rounded up the ’67 Rally Wheels and wheel backs from a Revell ’67 Chevelle, and the tires from a glue bomb Monogram 1/24 ’70 Chevelle. Found some random aluminum tubing to make a couple “adapters” to fit the splined fiction front axle to two of the Chevelle wheel backs, drilled out a bit, and another piece of aluminum tubing that fit the rear chassis holes and, with only a little reaming, the Chevelle wheel backs. In just an hour or so, “Done deal. Perfect.” I felt like Tony Beets (of TV’s Gold Rush). It seems like such a simple, stupid solution now, but it’s been bothering me for weeks if not months and is the kind of thing that could have sentenced the project to the Shelf of Doom for years. So what did you accomplish on a model car today that makes you happy you moved the project forward?

Well done!

Thanks! I couldn't believe my eyes when I saw it on eBay. Thanks Pappy!

Geno, I had yours (and Dean Milano's) in mind when I was building mine. My goal was to make the body look almost as good as yours, but retaining the flip/removable front end.

The pics don't do it justice. If you didn't know it was resin, you'd swear it was a kit part molded from that lovely 1960s white styrene.

I shed a tear.

If your JoHan '69 body is in good shape, I'd replace it with a common AMT '68 RR or '69 GTX body. The JoHan body is much more accurate than the AMTs and it would be a shame to hack it up for this project. Of course, if it's in bad shape or already hacked up or something, might as well drive on and use it for something.

Have you tried just taking the Molotow off with rubbing alcohol? That might work depending on what your underlying paint is. It might also be possible to polish the Molotow off and save your paint. Just throwing out some ideas.

So, no windows, just that sceen-thingie, and no front suspension of any kind. Hmmmmm....

What he said!

Here's their '69 Torino/Cobra hardtop, absolutely magnificent:

HAHAHAHAHAHA! Hey, I don't do EVERY interior that way, but on less than "full effort" models, it's easy to take that way out. BTW, for anyone who wonders what this kit looks like, here's one I "rescued" from the local toy show last year. The red paint on it polished up surprisingly well, and it's amazing how much "life" a Silver Sharpie and some black wash can bring to an old $5 model.

You DID get mentioned in Tim Boyd's story in the new issue of the Other Magazine, though.

If you do some searches in this forum and in General, you will find several whole threads on these things.

My bottles look just like that. I buy it at Walmart. Hobby Lobby has it too.

I don't care what they call it. If it dries that fast, and comes off even faster with rubbing alcohol, it's lacquer. At least the same kind of lacquer that the old AMT and the new Testor/Model Master lacquers are. BTW, I have personal experience with at least two colors of Krylon in the full-size cans that were called "fast-drying enamel" that would also come right off with rubbing alcohol. I wonder if the term "lacquer" is being avoided for marketing or legal reasons? "Enamel" is kind of a catch-all term. I've got several bottles of inexpensive, water-based crafts paint lableled "enamel" too. But of course it's nothing like what we raised-on-Testor-PLA kids would think of as enamel.

VERY interesting! I'll have to look for and try some of that. Thanks!