Snake45

Apparently a big fan of Bell products.

You need at least one more round of putty and sanding before you lay primer on, IMHO. What's that round? 10mm?

Your top is nowhere near ready to start polishing. The surface needs to be knocked down smooth and flat before polishing can begin. Oh, you CAN polish it now, but you'll just end up with shiny orange peel. If those white spots on the side are plastic and not glare, you've already cut through the paint. Your best plan now would be to strip and start from scratch. The WLC will come right off in 92% rubbing alcohol, which will probably take off your acrylic paint, too. Call it a learning experience. Most of us here have been down this road--or WILL, sooner or later. Since you need to strip anyway, why not experiment on that top? Keep sanding on half of it till it looks uniformly flat, and then polish the whole thing out, and you will see exactly what I mean.

And the absolute pinnacle of delta-winged beauty, the Dassault Mirage 2000: Now THAT's what a jet fighter should look like!

I think that's the DeHavilland Comet.

Okay, SL59, you're officially the 9th man in. GITTER DONE!

DiscoNovaMan, you're the 8th official declaration, so ROUND 4 IS ON! I'll be jumping in as #9 with three possibilities: a '69 Camaro, a '57 Chevy, and an AMT C2 Vette. Pics to come later.

Very cool! I'd love to run across one of those cheap someday.

Very cool, thanks! I'm still thinking seriously about a phantom Jungle Jim.

I don't know if 1000 grit is the same thing in the Micro Mesh system as it is in 3M WetOrDry sandpaper, but I can tell you that it would take you WEEKS of effort with 3M #2000 to get orange peel in Testor WLC knocked down. I've never found much less used any sandpaper finer than #2000, which doesn't feel much "grittier" than common construction paper. I've often wondered if Micro Mesh's numbers are 10x those of regular sandpapers.

You're off to a great start. Drive on! Didn't Landy, like Bill Jenkins, paint all his engines black? (Maybe I'm thinking of someone else.) Just since all the Landy fans are reading this, if I wanted to build a model of his AWB '65 car, what's the best starting point? Does anyone do a resin body, or would I have to track down a Polar Lights and alter it myself?

Testor WLC is very tough stuff as paint goes, which is why I suggested starting with #1000 grit, especially for the relatively rough surface you're starting with. Here's the last WLC paint job I wet-sanded and polished out (the green one). 3 coats of WLC, 24 hours apart, then knocked down flat with #1000 wet, then polished with Wright's Silver Cream. Shiny enough for me.

Well, I"m planning to build the AMT '56 Ford as a gasser myself, someday.

I'm now experiencing Night Four of this. Or is it Night Five? Apparently all coming from one house. I'm thinking of buying a whole bunch of fireworks myself, waiting a few weeks until it's unexpected, and then setting them all off right under the windows of this place. Think they'd get the message? (They don't know me at all--I"m half a block away.)

Testor WLC sands quite nicely. Get #1000 3M and use it WET. Just get the bubbles and high points knocked down, and get it all uniformly flat, and then you can go over it again with #1500 and then polish it out. You might also think about recoating in WLC if you have less than three coats on.

I suggested this here once and got a lengthy lesson on how the two frames are COMPLETELY different and this would be quite IMPOSSIBLE in real life and so forth. Just sayin'....

Apparently, "beautiful" means different things in other parts of the the country and the world.... That said, anyone who thinks the Grumman F7F-3 Tigercat isn't beautiful just ain't hooked up right.

The Barracuda wasn't even a real "ponycar" until 1970. It didn't have the long hood/short deck proportions of the Mustang, Camaro, Firebird, and Cougar--it was just a sportier compact. (Believe it or not, the same thing is true of the Javelin. Look at it sometime--its overall proportions are more akin to a '68-'74 Nova than to a Mustang or Camaro.)

I've had great luck with Walmart Non-Acetone nail polish remover. I've taken tampo printing off a number of diecasts with it and haven't hurt any paint yet.

The four-wheel equivalent of the Lockheed F-104: Man and engine covered by minimal smooth metal, and not a whole lot else.

At first I thought this was the Palmer model of the Jag XK-E!

You might as well go ahead and post this in the Most Beautiful Cars thread, too.

Very cool, just what we're looking for. GITTER DONE!

So it's AMT, then? Thanks for the info--gives me a starting point to track it down. Maybe at some point I'll run across a glue bomb '71-'73 with a savable body and interior that needs everything else--I'm all set! ETA: Discovered the number T-115 on the glass, which makes it an AMT '71.

My latest ePay junkyard score: 1. '65 Falcon funny car in original box, 95%+ complete (only thing that seems to be missing is the rear bumper), painted but unboogered body, and overall in better shape than another glue bomb I've been working on for a couple months. 2. AMT '69 Camaro Funny Hugger II body with hood, bumpers, and grille, in original box. Sadly, not many other original parts here, but the important part here is the body front end and grille, which is more accurate than the newer Revell '69 Z/28s's. (I'll either graft Revell fenders into this body, or just cut off the front end and mate it to a Revell body outright.) 3. Seems to be a complete, not horribly built and probably easily "rescue-able" Mono '29 Ford pickup. No, nothing particularly earth-shattering here, but a lot of good, fun modeling potential for about the price of ONE new kit at Hobby Lobby (and much less than one at AC Moore). OH, also in the Camaro box are an awful lot of what seems to be Pinto parts, including a stock chassis, engine, glass, two hoods (one with a large "lump" with cutout), and a complete chrome tree with grill, bumpers and stock wheels. Looks like pretty much everything but the body shell and interior. Part number on the chrome tree says W-929, which didn't turn up anything in a google search. Anyone know what kit it might be? Mark?