Snake45

Well THAT's different, and therefore interesting! And quite well done, too! Model on!

I'd never realized it but you might be onto something. The wheels in the '29 truck kit DO bear at least a passing resemblance to those! Interesting!

I agree with you completely, but I can tell you that the majority of weathering jobs I've seen on model cars and airplanes both are WAY overdone--some almost comically so. But a GOOD one is a thing of beauty.

Very nice indeed! What's the paint? My guess is Model Master British Green. Did I get it?

Oh, I've used more than that. And less. And none at all. It all depends on the paint, the contours of the model itself, the effect I'm trying to achieve, the phase of the moon, my mood at the time, etc etc etc. For example, here's a couple I used no clearcoat on, just rubbed out direct. I was going for a Day Two (factory finish) look on this MPC '69 Camaro, so I laid the Model Master Brit Green on as smoothly as I could (airbrush) and then gave it only a very LIGHT rubout, normally a no-no with metallic paint, but I thought I could get away with it. And I did. I deliberately left just a hint of "orange peel" for a factory look. This AMT '62 Vette got three or four coats of Model Master Honduras Maroon from the can, also rubbed out direct (no clear coat) as an experiment that I think worked. Dan, I'd love to hear your opinion of these.

Me too. I now try to do as LITTLE polishing as possible, but I'll do all that's necessary to achieve the finish I'm looking for on a particular model. Which might be a lot, or none at all.

I've seen them (pictures, not real), but not for years. Pretty cool!

Very very nice indeed! Well done!

Yeah, I think we're done here.

Good to know. I'll readjust my build schedule. Thanks for sharing this!

Not my kind of thing at all, but there's no denying your skill and craftsmanship. Nicely done!

So...you've never built the MPC '67 GTO, then?

So was mine.

I agree with Steve. But this might work for you: Sand a little spot in the clear about halfway down to the fleck, then cover the fleck with a tiny spot of the body color paint, and then build the clear coat back up over your spot-fix. Doing so might "camouflage" the speck with minimum damage or visual disturbance.

I've never considered it garbage, I just can't afford hardly any of it!

Not at all what I was expecting when I clicked the thread. Very different and therefore interesting--and well done to boot! Model on!

I'll be happy to try one as soon as Walmart starts selling them two for $4. Or at least Hobby Lobby sells them with a 40% off coupon. But seriously, most '60s window trim wasn't chrome, it was aluminum or stainless steel, and the Silver Sharpie does a surprisingly good job of simulating this--at minimum cost and maximum ease of use.

Very nice, very eye-catching! Looks like it jumped right off the pages of a 1964-65 magazine--and that's a GOOD thing! Well done and model on!

I've actually enjoyed this thread quite a lot. Lots of food for thought here.

My experience is similar. I never use the accelerator anymore, but I've found if I sand superglue within a few hours of application, it's not much if any harder than styrene, but if I let it set a day or more, it is. Of course, if you use a sanding block, much of that whole question is moot anyway--it's gonna sand out and even feather smoothly and nicely.

Where's my popcorn?

PREACH IT, Brother Peteski!

Another thing I've found useful is, about two hours after you lay on a coat, hit it a lick with ROUGH sandpaper--#280 or grittier. This will take off the hardened "skin" that is impeding the stuff underneath from drying. Then let dry 24 hours, then do your "good" sanding on it. Repeat as necessary. Remember, THIN coats are key.

Snake-slapping or Snake-whipping is my own building style where I do the absolute minimum necessary to get an acceptable-looking result sitting on my shelf. It's one step up from a slammer, one step down from a nicely done curbside. Snake-slapping can be (and often is) done on a brand-new, full-detail kit. In a Snake-slap, the body and paint will be nice (maybe not my very best paint job, but quite acceptable), the wheels and tires will be detailed, and the "sit" and stance will be right, but the chassis will probably be all flat black primer, there will be no engine or underhood detail, and the interior will have minimal detailing and probably be just semigloss black. Other people call this a "shelf model" or a "two (or three) footer" (because it looks good from two feet). Mine look good from even closer than two feet, but lift the hood or turn the thing over and most hard-corps car modelers will be disappointed.

The major visual difference is in the front fender vents. Several little detail differences, but yes, they're pretty much the same car.