Snake45

I'm sorry I wasn't clear. I meant that the "panel lines" for the rotating doors had been filled. Of course the kit parts never moved except on the roadsters you noted.

I like this quite a lot (except for the whitewalls, which is just a personal taste). I wonder why no one has done this in real life? Someone should. Well done and model on!

I do that kind of thing all the time and have posted many here. I usually work with a slightly "distressed" or played-with or damaged example, but if the one in question isn't especially valuable, you can do it with a pristine one as well. It's YOUR model, do with it what makes YOU happy, especially since it sounds like you're not going to chop or abuse it.

Maybe I should just dig that thing out and finish it off, as you did. All the "heavy lifting" is done. Wouldn't take much. But I'm not that big a fan of droptops eithers. Was only building it because the hardtop hadn't come out yet. What appeals to me at the moment would be to do a silver hardtop body for it (I just bought a cheap glue bomb HT with an excellent body), and call the Anthracite Gray engine area "shadow." I also want to do a '69 GTX in F5 green. (And a JoHan Road Runner to match.) They'd make an interesting set, dontcha think? But again, none of this is meant to take away from all-around excellence of YOUR model here.

Me too, for most liquid-cement jobs. It's MEK-based and gives more working time than the MC-based stuff, which dries almost instantly. But there ARE times when I WANT something to set up and dry RIGHT NOW.

Whiter Shade of Pale, Procul Harem.

I can't wait to hear if you like it as much as I do. BTW, I just tried the Black myself for the first time a couple weeks ago. So far, I like it. It's more like a very VERY dark gray, like the old Pactra Hot Rod Primer. I think I'll be using it on some tire treads, if nothing else.

Beautiful model! Believe it or not, I started one almost identical when this kit was brand-new. I painted it MM Anthracite Gray, and built a beautiful red interior. Then I found out that a medium metallic gray was not available on Plymouth in '69, just silver. And I'd already painted and detailed the engine compartment as well as the body. The stake through the heart was when I found out that Red interior wasn't available in GTX convertible in 1969. It went back in the box, where it sits to this day. I'll eventually put a hardtop body on it and ignore the ragtop rear seat bolsters. It would have been a beautiful car, though, as you demonstrate with your usual mastery. Nice job!

Tragically pimped-out Ford GPA? Or what?

The AMT and MPC bodies are very close in size and overall shape (the hoods are a near-perfect interchange). The detailing on the AMT body is and always has been better, and the door lines on the MPC are almost gone in all the reissues--you have to rescribe them in, very carefully. BOTH the AMT and MPC C2 Vettes are just a little "sharper," sleeker, than they should be. The Revell '67 Coupe (NOT the roadster, though) and their two '63 snappers actually have the most accurate bodies in shape, if you compare them to the real car, but they can look a little bit "fat" to us because we're used to seeing and working with the AMT and MPC bodies for 50 years now. I'm gonna do and post a complete comparo of all the C2 Vettes here someday, when a fit of industry grabs me.

Very, very nice! Who made the hood? I need one of those.

Wow, 90. No denying that he had a great run, though.

Hells no. Just squirting it right out of the can. You can smooth it nicely with #800 Wetordry if you really want to, but it lays out so smooth I almost never do. Now I always have to sand the popular Plastikote 235, but not the Walmart stuff.

Can't think of the title but I hear Neil Young's voice singing it. Am I in the ballpark?

Fabulous! You're making me wish this kit would magically reappear.

Wow, beautiful color on that Firebird. But I have to say your Camaro doesn't look much like that color. My son had a '99 Camaro (or a '94 or something) that was that color, or something darn close to it. I did him a model of it using a rattlecan of the touch-up paint.

I do that for long posts. I HATE having to type things up twice.

Color Place and Home Shades are the same thing. At least the gray primer was, right down to SKU number. I ran my own tests and they were the same thing (color, smell, coverage, anything I could think of). Sadly my WM no longer has the Home Shades (or Color Place) gray but they do still have the Color Place black and white. No barrier needed between them and plastic. Perfectly compatible with MM and Tamiya lacquers and they've even stood up to some "real car" paints I've used but I haven't tried everything. VERY thin and smooth coverage and the white covers amazingly well. I even used two just-barely-wet coats of the white over RED plastic with absolutely no "bleed through." WONDERFUL stuff and I'm hoping the gray will come back someday. Till it does I'll make do with the white and black.

Very nice! Looks passably close to '69 Lemans Blue, if you're going for a factory paint look. I have four or five airbrushes, but I do 95% or more of my work with a Badger 350. GREAT airbrush for car modelers!

Fabulous! And I love that it's "slammer-style." It puts many so-called "full detail" models I've seen to shame in realism and just general overall "look." Well done and model on!

Very nice, very clean build!

Model Car World also has one. http://www.mcwautomotivefinishes.com/resin/resinlist.html http://www.mcwautomotivefinishes.com/resin/66nova2dr.jpg http://www.mcwautomotivefinishes.com/resin/2nd66novadrag.jpg

Meanwhile, I got mine disassembled and cleaned today, re-did all the chrome with Sharpie, sanded the tire treads, and started the grille and taillight area detailing. With a little luck, I'll have it all back together (on the Centerline wheels, for now) tomorrow.

Clean build! What's the paint?

Very nice! I wish I could find one of these to do.