peteski

That makes perfect sense.

What happens to the pressure reading once you stop pressing the trigger? Does it show few psi higher than while you are spraying? Or is the pressure reading steady regardless of whether the air is flowing through the regulator or not?

Just a warning not to use the Minwax urethane that comes in paint cans (not sprays). It is slightly amber to begin, but it gets *MUCH* darker after few years. I ruined white model by using that stuff as a clear coat. If the stuff in spray cans is the same I would stay away.

I've been using vector based Corel Draw program for the last 20 years. Since it is vector-based, here is no pixalation at all. Yes, there is a learning curve, but once you get used to is, you will never go back to using bitmap-based graphic editors for making your decals. I use an older version, so it was rather inexpensive, but there is also similar freeware program called Inkscape. I highly recommend it. Corel suite of programs also has a powerful bitmap editor called Photo-Paint, which I also use when I deal with bitmaps. If you want to stay with bitmap editors, there is a powerful freeware program called Gimp. Much more advanced than MS Paint.

All the pressure regulators will show static pressure few psi higher than when the air starts flowing (ie. when I depress the airbrush trigger or use the regulated air for some other purpose). Granted, my regulators are not expensive high-precision units, but I believe that all the regulators will have static pressure slightly higher than when the air is moving through them.

This doesn't work with Comcast (my provider). To get the best price I had to sign onto a 2 year contract. The service level can't be changed without serious penalties. I could have chosen no contract for all my services, but that would have cost a lot more money. They basically have me by the cahones. They have it all figured out.

Ah, if moist when deposited, they have a nice crunchy coating - just like Nutty Buddies.

Very impressive model!

Funny how this thread has morphed from discussion about a hobby paint line.

In my area, there are 2 providers of CATV/Internet (and land-line phone): Verizon (FiOS) and Comcast (Xfinity). There are no other choices that I know of. It is sort of a monopoly because they both have similar prices. Yes, I'm prety sure you could choose to only get the Internet portion of their offering, but it is not cheap. Of course the "package deals" and contracts seem to give a price break (which it really isn't). I've seen ads for a satellite-based ISP, but I'm not sure what the quality of the connection would be. There is a new Internet-only company installing cable in some areas of New Hampshire with TV ads promising great deals with "no-bull", but they are only available in selected areas and I'm sure those great deals will disappear once they get well established. Plus I live in Mass.

One reason I don't like dogs licking me (especially my face, or even worse: lips)!

I'm glad you had good time. Did you meet Gregg?

I seem to recall you posting some pedestrian bridge collapse story few years back. Is this the same bridge, or another bridge?

Bill's illustrations reminded me a bit of the movie "Brainstorm".

As I understood it, Tom was mentioning that something ate the poop dog deposited on the deck. One of my GF's dogs used to like eating "poopsicles".

If they just leave the bags, that makes no sense at all (for the reasons you mentioned. I live on an inlet street leading to couple of loops. About 1 mile in total distance. There are several people daily walking the loops with their dogs. Some (especially with larger dogs that leave larger "gifts" behind) pick up and bag their dogs output, tie it, then leave at the side of the road. On the way back they pick up their bag and take it with them. I ask why they do that and they told me that they just don't feel like carrying the warm bag of steaming poo all the way around the loop, to be picked up when they return.

Why not get one of the better quality furnace filters and cut it down to size that fits the spray booth? Or even a cheap filter, but that will not catch as many particles as a better filter. There are lots and lots of options.

In SLRs (and I assume in DSLRs) the mirror is only in the optical path for composing the image through the viewfinder. When shutter is pressed, the mirror lifts up out of the optical path to allow the image to be captured by the image sensor at the back of the camera (where the film in SLRs used to be). Because of that the only places that the fuzz can be in are in the lens, or on the image sensor. If the fuzz is visible in the viewfinder (look at some uniform colored area (like clear sky or a piece of paper), then the fuzz is in the lens.

As I recall, ELO directions specifically mention not to immerse the item, but simply coat it with the liquid. DOT3 brake fluid (triethylene glycol monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monobutyl ether) is also not perfectly safe. I had it make some plastics brittle. The lesson here is that no stripping job is alike - always test and always be careful. Actually ELO's main ingredient (Dipropylene Glycol Monobutyl Ether) is similar to what is in DOT3 brake fluid.

Thank you David. I'll give them a try.

You did a really ice job on this kit David! You inspired me to find and buy that kit. Even thought it was just released last year, it is hard to find in USA. I got it through eBay from a hobby shop in Canada (few were also available from France, UK, and Italy but the shipping charges were too high). I just got it couple of days ago. The molding quality shows its vintage age. Mine also has sink marks on the nose, and the detail around the headlamps is a bit soft. But the worse part is the major distortion of the body. It appears that when the body was ejected from the mould, there was stress put on the gate attached to the side of the body and the plastic set in that shape. Was the body in your kit also distorted? I'm thinking of trying to use hot water to fix that distortion, but I would rather have an undistorted body. I wonder if Hornby would send a replacement body to USA? I guess I should contact them.

If you use them in a handheld power tool be ready for them to snap. Especially the smaller diameter ones. They are supper sharp and pleasure to use, but Tungsten Carbide is very hard, and very brittle. I own a large selection, and whenever I can, I buy the smaller diameter bits by the box of 50. That way I have lots of spares. As you can see, these bits are so good that I'm addicted to using them. Probably about 10 years ago, there was a seller on eBay selling them really cheap in boxes of 50.. Some resharpened, some used (with plenty of life still left). That is when I accumulated most of my stash.

Did you thin down the pillars? This body looks so much better than the other bodies I have seen with the clunky pillars. This one looks just like a real car.

That's a pretty color.

Well, we are all individuals and interpret things differently. Here is the sentence in question To me "we [the modelers] have little choice" seems to imply that RPM bought out all the the competitors (hobby paint). and now they can charge whatever they feel like. But whatever . . . Steve has the right idea. If we don't like it, we just shouldn't put up our money for it.