peteski

That is so true! Even my 37-year-old (1985) Caddy Eldorado just doesn't seem *THAT* old, but it is as old as a 1948 car was in 1985!! Crazy! It is all in our perception of time.

Exactly! This is a typical thing that happens nowadays - cancel culture. Someone has a knee-jerk reaction and others pile in (without seeing the "big picture). One thing is for sure - if Pat ever posts anything here again *I WILL NOT COMMENT*. Too bad that my "offending" post was deleted, because there is no reason in hell that when viewed in the contest of that entire thread it could be perceived as offensive or degrading.

This video was found in one of the threads in the 3D printing section of the Railwire forum (to which I posted a link really early in this thread).

Looks shiny, but does it have that fine Corinthian Leather interior?

Like I mentioned in the other thread, it is all in the painting technique. If you spray the paint on wet, there will not be any orange peel. That goes for primer and paint/clear coats. It seems that a majority of modelers seem to be afraid to do that, and they mist their paint coats. That causes the paint to partially dry traveling from the airbrush to the model, not being able to self-level on the models surface, causing orange peel. If one sprays heavier coats, the paint/primer is able to spread out on the model and level out. No orange peel. I lay it on heavy. Yes, there is a possibility the paint will run, but with experience that can be prevented. I never sand/polish my paint jobs.

Not at all. Your presentation is thorough, accurate, and makes perfect sense. I too would like kit manufacturers to pay more attention to the tires, but unfortunately they often just depend on existing molds for the tires for their kits, which are often incorrect for the model. This is likely done as a cost saving measure. But if they actually cut fresh molds for some new kit and they get the tires wrong, then there is no excuse. One ray of hope is that with the 3D printing getting more and more popular in modeling circles, correct tires can be designed and printed by hobbyists, or cottage industry manufacturers.

You are not the first person with orange peel print problem. This subject comes up from time to time. Here is a recent thread which provides lots of useful hints, some of which will be same as what is already mentioned here. Just click on the link: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/167753-dreaded-orange-peel/

Well, since your response was directly under a question about stripping resin bodies, I assumed your response was directed to that post. Sometimes people reply without quoting to the post directly before theirs.

Did you mean month and a year? Like 3-69 would indicate March 1969?

I never tried it on urethane resin body, but I have seen warnings that it turns the resin into gel.

Pat, let me state it again: I did not critique your modeling in any way. I simply pointed out that you were using a photo of another model (not a period photo of the real trolly) as a reference. That's it - period! I As for my latest modeling, if we are talking about automotive subject, it was a 1:43 scale 289 Cobra. One of these days I'll post it in the Under Glass section. Here are couple of photos: Lately I have been more involved in N-scale model railroad hobbies. I often take the model locomotives apart to fine tune them or modify the mechanism to run better. I also install and program digital decoders. I'm my model clubs loco mechanic. Here are some photos of a Gernam E77 loco I was servicing and installing a decoder in. I fully disassembled it. There is very little room in that model for a decoder. Here is the original circuit board from that loco and the DCC decoder I'm going to install (smaller board). I cut a hole in the original circuit board and "transplanted" the decoder into the hole. I also upgraded the headlights from regular light bulbs to white LEDs. I etched my owrn PC boards to house resistors and to make wiring easier. Finally the chassis was reassembled. I hope you don't mind posting these off-topic photos in your thread, but you did ask me to show some of my models.

Wow! Pat seem to think that the photo was a period photo showing the 1:1 trolly. If I just stated that I thought it was a photo of a model, I expected to be questioned why I thought it was not the "real" thing, so I simply documented the reasons I thought it was a model. It had *NOTHING* to do with Pat's modeling, or meant to belittled him. All I wanted to explain was that the photo Pat described as "period" photo (and was using for color reference), was not. Somehow this all got turned around. Why should I not say something when I feel the info provided is not accurate? And yes, I needed to analyze what happened because as I see things, I did nothing wrong. Hopefully analyzing this will help me not to make a similar mistake.

To me this car has some hints of a Ford Probe, and also maybe even Pontiac Fiero.

In my post (which got deleted) I merely stated that what Pat perceived as a prototype photo (Pat was using as a prototype reference for his model) appeared to me as a photo of a model. I also listed the reasons I thought it was a model photo. Ken confirmed that it was a model photo. Not sure why Pat took that so personally. I did not berate his model in any way. I simply stated my opinion about a photo (which was not of Pat's model). I also do not represent or speak for this forum. I'm really confused now, especially that Pat cheerfully accepted Ken's confirmation that the photo Pat used for reference was a model (not a "period photo").

Exactly! Have you looked at the prices of everything (like groceries) lately?

Going by my experience with Micro-brushes, if you accidentally touch too close to the liquid CA (especially the extra thin stuff), it can wick into the brush and glue the bristles together. That's why I went the disposable brush route.

My favorite "kicker" is Bob Smith Industries (BSI) CA accelerator. It has almost no odor, and it doesn't instantly dissolve paint or plastic like some other brands. It also doesn't leave residue when it evaporates. As far as applicators go, I use Microbrushes. Never spray. I dab the surface close to the liquid CA -- the accelerator spreads out, and gets to the glue on its own. Those brushes are disposable, so if one gets clogged with hardened CA glue, I just trash it and use a fresh one. I used to use a tiny home-made squeeze bottle with a small gauge hypodermic needle tip, but it used to clog if I accidentally touched too close to the liquid CA, so I switched to Microbrushes. Since very little accelerator is needed to "kick" the CA, I usually use the small (white handle) ones.

Actually, Dave Ambrose is the "man behind the curtain" dealing with the technical stuff that runs the forum. But all the moderators are doing great (and thankless) job of policing the forum. I suspect there is not much control in the placement of the ads, and for some strange reason this forum seems to have lots more problems with the ads annoyingly taking over the entire screen than the other forums I frequent. I suspect that this has something to do with the forum software itself (the way the code is written). The other forums use different underlying software.

That looks like a photo of a model, not a period photo of the 1:1 item.

But isn't the paint over the primer acting as a barrier, so the stripping solution can't get straight to the primer?

I participate on a model RR forum and members there have been using 3D printers for several years. There is a 3D printing section chock full of useful info (like all the special tricks they use when printouts fail). I realize that that it is a model RR forum, but printing 3D parts is printing 3D parts, regardless of what type of a model they are for. I don't think you have to be a member to view that forum. All ya all will likely find threads there useful, and learn something there. https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?board=45.0

I assume that you lie it down on the bench? If yes, just put it on some piece of rubber. A properly positioned elastic works for me. I also assume that one of those rubber disks made for opening tight glass jar lids would also do the trick. A rubber glove would probably work too.

Huh? The one that shows up under the text in my post (Model Builders' Warehouse 3D Printed Borrani Wire Wheels). Click on it. If for some reason you don't see it in my earlier post, here is a "plain" link to that thread: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/150587-model-builders-warehouse-3d-printed-borrani-wire-wheels/

Could also be the bottle. I have some older clear plastic blister packs which yellowed badly over time. Should be easy to tell what yellowed. If it is the bottle itself, it will be yellow below and above the liquid level. If it is just the liquid, then the yellow tint will only be up to the fluid level. Bottle above the fluid should look clear.

Dan, your effort looks pretty good. You might also look at the following thread for some inspiration: I bought some of Randy's 3D printed wheels and they were exquisite. What is amazing about those 3D printed wheels is that the spokes are interlaced (front to back) just like the 1:1 wheels. This feature is not achievable in either photoetched or wire-laced wheels. But it is not as important in your motorcycle-type wheels where the spokes don't really cross front-to-back.