peteski

Were those tires also resold by American SATCO? What was the size shown on their sidewall?

Is the Italeri (misshapen?) MB 500 SLC the same as ESCI kit? I have couple of those (unbuilt) and I don't see any major problems with their bodies.

Well then you can blame the Royal Mail. Maybe I'm gullible but I don't think that there are lots of USPS employees who maliciously damage mail. Most of the problems are likely occurring during machine processing of the mail.

Good question. Probably for the same (unknown to modelers) reasons all the other plastic model kit companies do not reissue kits, even if many modelers are pining for them.

Yeah, I can see that now. Maybe even at 11 o'clock position. We still don't know whether the other graphics (on the left) belong to the K-H logo, or are for another sponsor.

That photo is very small. Which part of the "stuff" behind the wheel opening is the logo you are looking for? Or the entire cluster of object is the logo? I blown it up and this is the best I can come up with. You can barely make out the words. Not sure what the other graphics are. The actual K-H logo might just be the lettering and the round object. The other objects might be another logo Maybe instead of searching for the logo look for other photos of the race cars from that time period for higher resolution of the logo? That foto is from 1966 Sebring competition. When searching for logo, this is the one that pops up most often:

Jerry, the question you are asking is one of those topics that comes up here fairly regularly. Here is the most recent thread (the answers will be same this time around). Check it out.

Good to hear that you got it to where you're happy with it.

Thanks for answering my questions Lin. The video is very well done, but I figured I should mention that it left me with couple of questions. I was just hoping that you had some trick for cleanly cutting the tubing as I also find that task a bit of a pain.

Yes, this is a clever way to replace the plastic spokes. It was unclear to me in the video how you held the hub halves together for installing first half of the spokes (4:31 in the video). Only after re-watching few times I noticed that you are using a screw in the center axle hole to keep the hub halves together. It would have been useful if you showed that procedure in the video (or even just mentioned it in the captions. You also did not make any mention of the blue paint marks which seem to be for aligning the rim and the hub. Still, this is a very helpful video. Thanks! I'm also curious how you cut the metal tubing so cleanly for the nipples?

How about just using the tint film (with its clear adhesive-backing film still in place) as the model's window "glass". No bubbles of fussing, but it is a but flimsy.

When applying tint film to 1:1 vehicle windows you use water and squeegee (to prevent air bubbles). Did you try that on the model's window, or were you applying he tint film dry?

I suspect that using paper does not give very accurate results as it absorbs some of the paints binder. Styrene would be a better surface to use. That is what I use. Of course painting the lid of the bottle, or the cap on the spray can also works well. That is how paint cans were sold back in the day - caps were actually painted with the paint in the can. But most companies have taken the cheaper way out to just mold the cap from approximately colored plastic. Not quite the same (especially for metallic colors).

Joints between styrene parts made using small amount of 5-minute epoxy can be broken fairly easily.

I have nice stash of the original stuff from years ago. Few months ago I picked up a sheet from my local hobby shop, but it looks and behaves as well as I woudl expect from the original chrome. I suppose to try getting some of the "bad" foil.

What kit is that? I have the Tamiya kit 24082 Mazda MX-5 Miata and it is a LHD kit. Was there another version of the Miata? If the one you have is RHD, it woudl be probably easiest to just get the kit I have.

Jerry, If you check their profiles, both people who posted in this thread haven't visited here for years. I doubt they will see your request. It is also not a good idea to post your phone number in a public forum.

Some contests have a "collaboration" category for when multiple individuals created the contest entry. Other shows allow models to be entered for display only -- those will be still enjoyed by the spectators, but will not be judged. If the contest you are planning to attend does not have either of those options, you can also contact the contest organizers, and ask if they would allow you to display your work. Most will gladly agree.

That's correct. Quoting the website I liked to in my last post: Associated Hobby Manufacturers got its start in Philadelphia in the 1940s by Bernard Paul, who, legend has it, sold balsa wood model airplanes in the back of his mother's candy shop. After establishing his model railroad business in the 1950s, one of Paul's first moves was to take on the Hobby Industry of America which, intent on putting importers like AHM and Polk's of New York out of business, passed a ruling that trade show exhibitors had to pay $300 for each brand they showed. Since Paul imported 40-50 brands, it made for an untenable situation, so he had everything repackaged for his "H.O. Train Company" brand. (Polk's pulled the same stunt using their "Aristo-Craft" brand.)

I didn't state that Hasegawa stuff was a viable alternative, and I don't believe anybody else stated that directly. IMO, it will work in certain applications, but not in others. I'll try it one my next build which needs chromed areas (but that won't be for quite some time - I'm concentrating on model RR stuff now).

I have been buying from Hobby Link Japan for decades. Not often, but I do buy things there. Never had any problems. It is a legitimate large online hobby shop. I used to also order from Rainbow 10 (a brick and mortar hobby shop in Shizuoka City I had a pleasure of visiting). No problems, but they don't do online sales anymore. Hobby Search Japan is also another large online vendor where I have ordered multiple times, problem free. Shipping charges (especially nowadays) can be on the high side, but the Japanese (domestic to them) kit prices are usually less than the same kits in USA. If you buy several items, the cost is IMO not that bad, especially when they have something you want, which cant' be had in USA. I have also seen Japanese kits listed on eBay by some Japanese sellers, with some outrageous shipping costs. No thanks.

They also sold N scale model RR items (like locos, cars and even structure kits). Those were all just reboxed items made by other companies. http://www.davidksmith.com/birth-of-n/ahm.htm

Thinner and more stretchy than Mylar (or wherever Pop Tart wrap or other metalized food packages are made of). It is sort of like scaled down version of 1:1 (vinyl?) car wrapping material.

Something strange is going on with Snake Pliskin's account. Not only the joining date and the last visited date is the same, according to the profile he has made zero posts. EDIT: never mind - you were looking for the other snake.

How old was his post you found? If you were to check his profile info, you would notice that he Last visited May 5, 2011 So, either his PM Inbox is full, or maybe his account was made inactive.