peteski

I've seen eBay listings pulled down "due to an error in the listing", even with bids on it. I always suspected that it was done to do some backdoor sale of the item outside of eBay. You could also contact the bidder and tell them that there is incomplete description, assuming that eBay still allows contacting bidders.

While I don't own one of those printers., I follow posts (mostly lurk) in the 3D printing section of another forum I participate in. Here is a thread with some recommendations: https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=53284.0 That 3D printing section of the forum has lots of very useful info. I recommend browsing through the topics. https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?board=45.0

I basically did Internet search for "light absorbing paint for optics". http://light-absorbing-coatings.com/ https://www.acktar.com/ https://www.acktar.com/ https://www.gerdneumann.net/english/instrument-building-parts-teile-fuer-den-fernrohrbau/totmatte-schwarze-optikfarbe-deep-black-optical-paint.html https://www.nano-lab.com/optical-black-coatings.html (annoying auto-play) I didn't mention these earlier because this type of coating is usually not needed for automotive paint applications (either 1:1 or scale models). Models (depicting 1:1 black painted surfaces on vehicles) usually require only satin black.

Large part of how "dead black" paint is also depends on the sheen. Truly dead "hue" black will also have dead flat finish. Paint like that is used in the cameras to create non-reflective surface (like inside of the cameras lens assembly). No reflection means "it absorbs maximum amount of light",so it is the "blackest". But the more flat the finish is, the more fragile it is. It is subject to picking up skin oil or being burnished by even gentle abrasion. Actually truly dead black paint has no hue, since it absorbs *ALL* colors of visible light. A "black hole". Absence of all reflected light.

If the temperature inside the dehydrator is let's say 100 deg. F, how would the cold weather (outdoors, or even in the room where the dehydrator is) affect the curing time? 100 degrees is 100 degrees, even if it is 16 degrees outside. Also, cold weather (like during winters in the Northeast USA) automatically means low humidity. When that dry air is warmed up in the dehydrator it becomes even dryer, and that also speeds up the evaporation even more. Yes, some 1-part polyurethane adhesives (like Gorilla glue) need moisture to produce the cure reaction, 2-part polyurethane paints or adhesives consist of resin and hardener/catalyst, so no external catalyst is needed for those to harden. Heat also speeds up the reaction.

I think it is all in your mind Mike. Human eyes (well actually human brain as the brain is actually interpreting the visual input form our eyes) can easily be tricked. I believe that is the culprit here. Just like Though hard to believe, but all these long lines are parallel to each other. They look crooked because this illusion is tricking you in your perception of angles. Since the shorter lines keep changing their direction, our brain believes that the long lines too are uneven.

That is an awesome diorama Jerry -- had me laughing. Very creative and well done! But in color? Shouldn't it be finished in shades of gray? Just pulling your leg -- I wouldn't change a thing! But it did remind me of a diorama/shadow-box entered in my club's model contest back in 2008. It consisted of a hollowed-out portable TV set with a B/W (grayscale) scene from a movie rendered in 3D inside the TV. That was also very creative (I believe it won the 1st price in dioramas). You have to click on the link to see the photo: http://classicplastic.org/image/obj1362geo765pg51p9.jpg

Casey, do you actually use that video player? I have a Betamax Time Life Video "The Kinks, One For the Road" tape in the original box from 1980. It was a freebie (leftover at a flea market at the end of the day). The box is a beat up, but the tape cassette looks to be in good condition. I couldn't resist picking it up (the price was right) as I never seen a Betamax tape, but I have no way to play it (I have a VHS unit). Anyway, if you want it, PM me and I can mail it to you (I'll ask you to cover the postage).

How about printing it almost vertically (so it fits on the build plate?

It is a well proven fact that it is in human nature to complain more than give praises. Move along -- nothing to see here . . .

Oh alright Noel, you're forgiven. Whether it is 500 pages, or 12 and a half thousand individual posts, those are impressive numbers of irks.

How about creating a small segment of the tire (like a segment of an orange), then duplicating it while rotating it around the center of the tire?

The number of pages (not posts) contained in a thread has always been shown after the thread's subject line (since I joined the forum in 2014). If it's less than 25 posts no number of pages shows up. Is there now some place that actually shows the actual post count in a thread? I don't see it.

Yes, but those 55 bids were made by 12 individual bidders. One of the bidders place bunch of what I call "nickel and dime" bids early in the auction. Still. 12 bidders is nothing to sneeze about. Bids: 55 Bidders: 12

I guess you didn't understand. It is not about being sealed. Some people (Like Jesse above) take those new, unused Priority Mail boxes picked up for free from the PO and turn them inside out (so they no longer have the colorful USPS Priority Mail graphics all over them). Originally the inside of those boxes was just plain brown (like any other box). But USPS figured out that people were doing it, so they started printing identification text all over the inner brown side, so when turned inside out, they still show that they are USPS Priority Mail boxes. It is supposed to be a deterrent for using those boxes for services other that Priority Mail. This deterrent however likely only works when someone tries to mail those boxes through USPS (using cheaper service, like Parcel Post). Unfortunately for USPS I don't think that UPS, DHL, or FedEx will reject a package just because it has the "USPS Priority Mail" written all over the box.

Whenever the subject of relatively high price being paid for a finished model (like this one) is brought up, I don't see the comments as negative. At least in this thread. What I see is the amazement and puzzlement of why (according to the values of the person making the post) would someone spend *THAT* much money for a model. I don't think that is a negative comment - just surprise. We all have ideas of what values to assign to what things, and what is extravagant spending. There are obviously collectors out there who are ok with spending $3k on a nice model, just like there are collectors willing to spend millions of dollars for a piece of canvas with some oil paint applied to it (and find it valuable even if the thing shreds itself). I started this thread mainly because I thought it was a really nice one-of-a-kind model. As for the final price, it was a bit surprising to me, but as others have said, more the power to Mr. Hettic. As a side note, he also had his '77 T-bird complete resin up kit for auction that same evening , and it fetched $327.50. That's is for unbuilt kit. So even model builders have no problem paying more than an average resin kit cost for a unique resin kit.

Huh? 500 posts? How did you figure that out? I see that this thread has 498 pages. Each page (for me) contains 25 posts. That is around 12,450 posts. Yes over 12 thousand! Still fewer posts than the silly ONCE UPON A TIME thread which was started 5 years later, and is already up to 779 pages, which is over 19 thousand posts!!!

The accessories (stuff up front) screamed "Austraila", but other then looking at the photo I did not additional research.

Back in 2013 members were hosting photos on external websites (like Photobucket or Fotki). The photos are likely gone because the hosting account was deleted or the links to then have changed over the years. Maybe someone will have a magic answer, but I wouldn't hold my breath. Another possibility would be to find a way to contact Porscheman and see if he still has copies of the photos.

Funny that there can be "shades" of black. Are you worried about the paint being "dead" black in hue, or have a "dead" flat finish, or both?

For a 1:25 dwarf car a 1:32 scale model would likely be the right size.

That is one elegant and slick looking car!

I've been watching Paul's eBay listings for some time. He just sold another a one-of-a-king built resin model. He does such a good job with models which will likely never be produced. Here is a link to the (closed) auction listing: https://www.ebay.com/itm/154850234323

For protecting while handling, I wrap some stretched Parafilm-M over the "chrome" part. It just clings with no adhesive and does not leave any residue when removed. In the past I recall some kit "chrome" having factory-applied layer of clear paint over the metalization. Yes, there is a layer of clear applied before the metal is deposited, but those parts had an outside layer of clear applied over the metalization, but I have not seen this done for some time now.

Every additional layer of paint adds to the overall thickens of paint. Since the paint thickness is not 1:24 scale, I prefer to minimize the number of paint layers on my models so the model looks realistic (not like it is dipped in honey). Yes sometimes there is need for primer or undercoat for translucent (or "hot" solvent) top layer paints, but whenever I can, I spray over bare plastic. If I was painting a model using metallic black plastic safe hobby paint, if the bare plastic is black or dark, I would likely not use any base coat. But it is always prudent to do a paint test on a spoon, plastic bottle, or a scrap model to test various techniques (like how the final coat will look with or without dark base coat).