peteski

Judging by all the views of this thread since 2019, nobody who viewed this thread knows Paul G. outside of the forum. And obviously Paul hasn't visited here since 2019. Does Paul's profile show what part of the country he is from? Maybe check obituaries from late 2019 or early 2020 looking for Paul G in the part of the country Paul was from. I know it sounds weird, but it is a good place to start.

Sorry to hear you dropped out of the model RR forums. Great weathering job on that loco.

I once restored old fractured decals by simply spraying couple of wet coats of lacquer thinner over the surface of the decal. I waited for the thinner to evaporate, then sprayed next coat. It remelted all the cracked pieces back into solid film. The decal was the one which is printed over a solid clear film (where each decal image has to be trimmed before application).

Have you checked his forum profile to see when was the last time he visited the forum (or last time he posted anything)?

I don't have any orange peel issues. I just apply the paint that is thin enough to self-level on the model, and I apply it in thick enough coats so it is able to self-level. Wet-coats are are the enemy of orange-peel. I don't have any formulas or procedures I follow - I just do it. I never have to sand or polish my paint jobs. The orange peel issue seems to be quite prevalent with automotive modelers striving for a glossy finish. I suspect that you all apply paint that is either too viscous, spray too far from the model, or spray on too little paint. Either of those things (or combination of multiple of those) can cause the paint not to be able to self-level on the model, resulting in rough finish (orange peel). I would say practice your spraying technique to see if you can get a nice shiny finish just by spraying paint.

That works for certain applications, but the light coming out of the end of a fiber is quite directional (like a focused beam out of a flashlight). LEDs (the small SMD type) have much wider viewing angle, more like a standard light bulb. And as you mentioned, fiber optics require a enclosed source of light (which can be an LED or an incandescent bulb). I've used both methods in some of my models.

Kevin, you look like you are fairly new, so maybe that is why you assign this question instead of noticing a long-running sticky thread in this forum about choosing compressors. There is lots of useful info and recommendation in there.

When it comes to mirrors, is there really such a visible difference to warrant scratchnuildigin when read-made ones are available? IMO, items such as mrrors don't have strictly predefined sizes (like wheels, tires or engines) to stand out they are tiny bit out of scale.

Thank you guys for clarifying the meaning of that nomenclature, and other assorted nuggets of useful info..

Normally I just hover my cursor over the user's name, and when the popup with the user's info shows up I just click on "Message" button to send a PM. But this time, instead of clicking on the "Message" button, I clicked on the member's name. That brought me to a page with a summary of that members info. There, on top there also is a "Message" (PM?) button, but lower, under the Activity tab there is a "Write public message on member's activity feed". That is probably the "public" message. I guess the messages listed under that tab are public. Up to this point I never looked at any of those.

Oh well, finally the one I knew and the quiz is closed. I didn't see any solutions in any messages. But when I PM'd Michael my answer I almost sent a public message (whatever that it) by accident. Maybe that is what Michael did with Pete J? I don't even know where I can read public messages.

Nice job on the kit, especially the detail painting.

If you can pick up some warm white LED Christmas tree lights after the holidays (50% off sale), they are a good source of standard 3mm or 5mm LEDs. The lens might be oddly shaped, but you can file it down until it is flat (the clear material is epoxy resin). Just don't file it down too close to the LED chip inside.

Impressive!

Unless a chunk of solid paint came up from the can, I suspect that if you cleaned the tip immediately after last spraying, the tip would not clog. That's how I do it. Also, instead of using a drill bit, you might have been able to use a sewing needle to clean out the orifice whiteout causing too much damage.

Yup, that one I know.

Which Tamiya paint? As I understand, the acrylic paint in little glass jars is an alcohol-based acrylic lacquer. Molotow is also alcohol based, so it is not out of the question that it interacted with that paint. If you used the TS spray paints, then I'm not sure if there should be any problems, but in my experience, and from what I see on the forum, anytime you are using different brands/types of paint, there is a risk of undesired interactions.

There was nothing to think about. Back then we all used that never-drying Testors chrome silver, because that was basically all that was available for hobby paints for chrome-like color. We all used it.

Couldn't agree more.

Well, maybe not the simplest process, but I *NEVER* had any problems with it. Actually, looking at the technical side, my procedure is much simpler than yours. Since I copy/paste the URL to the image, all I'm doing is simple ASCII text operation. Plain ASCII text has been around since the teletype days. Your copy/paste involves all sorts of "black magic" inside the operating system. Yes, it looks really easy and simple from the end user's perspective, but there is quite a bit happening behind the scenes.

Well, one buys a bottle of wine to consume the wine. That is what the money pays for. The empty bottle and straw then normally get tossed in the garbage (or recycled). But a frugal modeler can utilize the discarded packaging for modeling purposes. Hey, even that empty bottle could be used to build a nice ship-in-a-bottle model.

To me it looked like a Fiero-based kit car. I guess it was the mid-engine thing.

Come to think of it, these remind me of paper models I used to build as a kid (well, the only difference is the medium - metal vs. paper).

I suspect the reason is that they cannot b added later (once the initial post get locked). Reading the forum I also don't think there is enough traffic to warrant a separate First Responder forum section.

But the straw wrapping is free.