peteski

That is one elegant and slick looking car!

I've been watching Paul's eBay listings for some time. He just sold another a one-of-a-king built resin model. He does such a good job with models which will likely never be produced. Here is a link to the (closed) auction listing: https://www.ebay.com/itm/154850234323

For protecting while handling, I wrap some stretched Parafilm-M over the "chrome" part. It just clings with no adhesive and does not leave any residue when removed. In the past I recall some kit "chrome" having factory-applied layer of clear paint over the metalization. Yes, there is a layer of clear applied before the metal is deposited, but those parts had an outside layer of clear applied over the metalization, but I have not seen this done for some time now.

Every additional layer of paint adds to the overall thickens of paint. Since the paint thickness is not 1:24 scale, I prefer to minimize the number of paint layers on my models so the model looks realistic (not like it is dipped in honey). Yes sometimes there is need for primer or undercoat for translucent (or "hot" solvent) top layer paints, but whenever I can, I spray over bare plastic. If I was painting a model using metallic black plastic safe hobby paint, if the bare plastic is black or dark, I would likely not use any base coat. But it is always prudent to do a paint test on a spoon, plastic bottle, or a scrap model to test various techniques (like how the final coat will look with or without dark base coat).

In my experience (judging by the questions that are repeatedly asked in new threads) pinning doesn't seem to help people to find answers. But I guess if not for anything else, it would make it easier to members who answer those repeated questions to find the thread in question and point the person asking to the appropriate thread. But then how war do we take this? We will eventually end up with 20-30 pinned threads.

That is sad, be are all getting old! I just saw her few weeks ago in an old episode of My Three Sons. She was a tall young lady playing a daughter of a Swedish (or was it Dutch?) company official. Fred McMurray was tasked to take her around town. She she looked pretty hot and she looked familiar but couldn't figure out who she was. But a quick look at IMDB give me her name.

When was the last time you did that? For several years now the inner surface of USPS Priority Mail boxes has "Thank you for using Priority Mail Service" printed all over the surface. It is quite visible.

Great job on the Firebird! Rockford Files was/is one of my favorite TV series. He seemed to always get beat up or in some sort of trouble, but always ended up solving the case. You felt compassion for him. Well written show. Of course the lady characters were nice too. Mention of the trailed jogged my memory. Like a deja-vou all over again. I recall a thread about @Repstockdoing a diorama few years ago.

Erik, thank you for doing this comparison. I was more than happy to provide you with a sample, especially since you already had several other types of foil at your disposal (and I don't). Like Jim, I think it is some sort of extremely thin vinyl wrap type of material (In my experience Mylar is not very stretchy). Hasegawa foil does have some stretchiness, but nowhere like the original BMF. The problem with that is that if its stretched into a depression in the model, even though it has a strong adhesive, after some time (sometimes couple of days) it will start relaxing to its original un-stretched state. Also unlike BMF, it cannot be "compressed" slightly -- it will just wrinkle. But it is by far the shiniest and smoothest foil. It will work well for straight chrome trim (like side moldings), or for large mostly flat areas.

Regardless of the cost of shrink wrapping vs. sticker seals, Revell DE (Germany) has used that sealing method for many years. After the latest round of mergers or acquisitions the line between Revell DE and Revell USA is blurrier than ever. Things like size of the boxes, type of box sealing, etc. will be mixed and matched. You can't just identify the origin of a kit by the sealing method or box size. As far as that VW kit goes, yes, it comes in American size box, but look at the side panel. It clearly states: Manufactured by Revell Germany (with the kit parts made in Poland, decals made in Italy). Bottom of the box also shows "Revel GmbH (Germany) Distributed in USA and Canada by Revell USA LLC". What we have here is the result of having the kit produced by a typical "global company". I am also amused that none of it is made in China. That is rare nowadays. So I totally contribute the round seals on the box to the fact that this kit originated at Revell DE. In the end, does any of this matter? Kit is a kit, regardless of its origin. And that is quite a nice kit.

It seems in Jeff's case the shipping box is not damaged, but the kit boxes inside are. I have ordered plenty of kits through mail and I don't ever recall any of the kit boxes being damaged (if the shipping carton is undamaged). That's just not right if one buys factory-fresh new models. I would take photos of those damaged boxes and contact the company you bought the kits from. I have received damaged kit boxes from eBay auctions, but the fact that the boxes are dented, etc. is clearly stated in the auction listings, I know they will not be pristine.

BMF should be shiny enough. If you ever took a taillight apart you would likely notice that the reflector isn't mirrored (like in headlights) but a satin silver finish. But a flat silver surfac is not ideal. If you really want to make them look realistic you will need to scratchbuild a reflector to imitate one in the 1:1 car, then apply silver finish of your choice. Then place that reflector behind the red lens. That will give it the depth and the light will reflect like it does in the 1:1 taillight. Also remember that the lens is not just smooth lens - it has striations which also change the overall reflectivity. I have made reflectors for head and taillights for this model. I don't have a photo handy of the back, ut you can see that the surface behind the lens is not just flat. I actually also installed piece of clear rod painted clear amber for the directionals. This all doesn't not show very well in photos, but in-person it looks very realistic.

While not attractive, at least those showed the photos of actual models. Sometimes what the box art depicts, and what the model looks like are 2 distinctly different things.

Jeff, you mention that the shipping box shows no visible damage, but kits inside are damaged? In what way are they damaged? IS the kits box visible crushed, or the kit box itself is intact, but some plastic inside is damaged? If the kit's box is not visibly damaged or crushed, sometimes manufacturers have problems when the plastic parts are being stuffed in the boxes at the factory. Things like bent A-pillars can occur. Or sometimes the kit bodies are deformed because they aren't allowed to cooled down enough when they are removed from the mold, causing the plastic to distort.

Those globaltoys metal stickers are similar (same production process) as the metal emblems/scripts included in many Tamiya kits, and sometimes in other Japanese model kits.

Thanks for the info Hien. Very helpful as I'm not on FB. So there is no master and urethane resin castings. At least for now. Those are all printed directly on a 3D printer. Interesting. That explains the slight surface texturing. I'm surprised that the shells are rather thick. I wonder if they could probably be printed thinner? Still, they do look like very accurate representations of the 1:1 cars and the derails on the surface are really well done.

Wow! This one (and the Rivera) look amazing! You mentioned these are resin casts of the 3D printed masters. I seem to detect some striation (3D printing artifacts) in the photos. Does that men that Robert did not do any smoothing of the master, and just cast it raw?

Hi Sten, where did you find your resin kit? I'm asking because Paul Hettick (member of this forum) has produced a master of that car and is occasionally selling resin kits of it on eBay. It has the wheels you are looking for. Here is a thread describing him mastering the kit: And first castings: And the finished model. It is gorgeous! The only "problem" is that the kit is in high demand on eBay. It infrequently comes up for auction, and when it does, it fetches between $200-$400. But it is a really nice kit. I wonder if Paul woudl sell you just the wheels and tires (both are superb castings)?

That's a worth project. Funny, just couple of weeks ago I posted this in the off-topic forum.

You would think that since you purchased the physical media (floppies, CD, or even downloaded the installer from over the Internet) that you "own" it. Have you ever bothered to read through that entire very lengthy legalise user agreement that everybody just blindly clicks "I accept" button? If you have read it, you would know that even though you have the software installed on your computer, you don't actually own it. You have the right to use the software. Read one of those user agreements next time you install some software. Or find a copy of it in one of your installed software. it is probably somewhere in the folder where the software is installed. It is enlighteneing.

Yes, this is a big deal, and it is done on per-State basis. https://www.repair.org/stand-up/ In Mass. there is https://www.autocare.org/government-relations/current-issues/right-to-repair

Same goes for appliances (or any product nowadays which is full of electronics). My fridge is over 15 years old, and while it is not as full of computers as today's fridges, it does have small control panel that is electronic. Just some LEDs, buttons and a small microcontroller "brain" which controls the defrost cycle and ice maker). I figured I should get a spare one just in case this one fails, since other mechanical parts in fridges (like the compressor) seem to last forever I like to keep mine going as long as I can. Well I looked everywhere online and that part is discontinued and out of stock. I should have picked one up when the fridge was a bit newer. Same goes for washers, dryers, microwaves, and stoves. They all have electronics and spare parts will not be stocked forever. Unlike the old days where you could pick up spare (mechanical or simple electrical parts) for your Kenmore washer pretty much 30 years after it was made.

At least someone here understands this. It is rare in the modeling community. It is actually not that all those coatings are marketed as "acrylic". It is that modelers use the word "acrylic" when referring to the water-based hobby paints (even though as you correctly stated, there are many other none-water-based acrylic coatings).

Thinking without doing any calculations Matchbox or Hot Wheels models (around 1:64) would probably be better for making a 1:25 scale pedal car.

Selling the Monkeymobile relabeled as Happy Days vehicle has nothing to do with the timeline of the shows or what time period is depicted by the shows. It is called "merchandising". and it is all about selling stuff and making profits. Someone figured out that if they take existing model and package it in a new box and new decals, that seemed like a winner to the sales department. Model companies do that all the time.