peteski

That is a later release of the kit "27" in my photo. I didn't know it was such a rare kit.

Is this the kits you guys are looking for? I had it for years in my stash. Back then those Enthusiast kits were priced at 1800 Yen. The instructions have 1988 date on it. I bought it at AAA hobby shop in Wakefield, MA (long gone).

The chrome surrounds can be painted on the kit's dash using silver paint, or foiled using Bare Metal Foil. It requires some precision, but it can be done. You could also wrap some silver color fine wire (from a craft store) around a brush handle or other suitable-diameter object. Wrap few turns (making a "spring"), then slide if off the object and use cutters or knife to slice the coils into individual rings. Glue those to the dash using some clear paint (I would not use any actual glue for that).

Good point! I didn't even look at the sign. If the photo was taken in USA (no reasons to doubt it), then I bet that car is far away from its homeland!

1989? I wonder how that same McDonald's is rated today (assuming they are still being rated)?

That is such a cool cover! I have one of those framed. Libby serving breakfast (in America). MP3s don't come with all the "Swag" LPs came with.

Nice! That must look quite good when viewed in-person.

I like it! Cool light effects too!

Those large wheels and tires make it look funny. I suspect I know the region of the world this car was manufactured.

Joe, simple solution: Go to your favorite search engine and search for "usb all in one memory card reader". There are lots available. It is a small box which has multiplpe sockets that accept pretty much every memory cart ever made. The box just plugs into any USB port and when you insert a memory card, it will show up as a drive on your Windows machine. As far as CD/DVD drives in laptops go, in the last few years laptops no longer have them built-in. It is considered old technology. Again, there are inexpensive USB CD/DVD drives available. I also have one of those for one of my laptops.

No problem Charlie. Since that majority of hobbyists printing decals use ink jets, I just wanted to prefer a disappointment of the ink beading up on the surface of laser decal paper. To the uninitiated: Ink jet specific decal paper has a special liquid ink-absorbing layer, so it doesn't bead up on the surface.

Charlie has an Alps MicroDry printer. Make sure not to use this paper in ink jet printers!

Strongest setting solution I have is Walthers Solvaset (usually stocked in hobby shops caterign to model RR crowd). Or order it directly from Walthers

Make sure to pick the decal paper designed for the printer you have: ink-jet, or laser (including other thermal transfer printers like Alps). Those types of paper are not interchangeable.

Bill, I don't question the 3D printing technology. I think it is a new amazing, and exciting addition to our hobby. Many model companies use 3D-printed masters for resin and white metal cast kit, and many 3D directly-printed model parts are available in the aftermarket. I was just stating that 3D scanning technology is not quite ready for someone to place some object on the scanner pad, and the scanning process magically creates a ready-to-print file. As you mentioned, Bill C. designs his parts in CAD (not by 3D scanning)..

Tamiya (Washi) tape I believe is made of some bamboo-based paper. It also does not have very aggressive adhesive. so the narrower the tape is, the less area is on it to adhere, and it will make it appear not to be very sticky. I would not expect very narrow strips to stick very well to anything. That is true about any masking tape, but if the tape has a more aggressive adhesive to begin with, the narrow strips will also have more "stickiness".

Well Rick, you seemed to be unhappy being stuck watch the boring parts. It seemed that you were not aware you could easily skip to any part of the video. It is silly to kvetch about something if you know what to do to remedy what you kvetchign about. Useless info? Well, you are welcome anyway. BTW, I didn't watch those videos - just offering very unhelpful hints. That's me, silly Peteski

You can always just move the video timeline slider forward past the boring parts.

Not much different from the CO2 gas in a carbonated beverage (like a Coke can or bottle). If you shake it, you'll see it bubble up.

Have you personally try that? As I understand, 3D scans (especially of small items) are really rough and require you (having CAD skills) to clean them up before printing. Often it takes less time to draw the object from scratch than to clean up the 3D scan.

Like others, I'm really surprised. I never had a problem with it adhering. Silly question: you didn't happen to wax the paint you were masking? Tamiya tape is rather pricey -- "Washi tape", which is available in craft stores or online is basically the same as Tamiya, but less expensive. Still pricier than regular masking tapes, but well worth the extra cost.

Greg, Why don't you let us know what tape and paints you are using, and what is your masking/painting technique?

Very nice model. The A-pillar repair was also done well. I like the color too. Too bad the stock wheels weren't usable, but the wheels you chose do look good on this car. What did you use for the "chrome" foil?

Some cars do show which tire has low pressure, but those are usually not the lower end cars.

Yes, it appears to still being issued. But the subject line you chose is really misleading. FSM has been published for decades. Wouldn't it make sense to use "Contest Cars issue still being published in 2021!" Instead of "Fine Scale Modeler?"