peteski

I never tried it on urethane resin body, but I have seen warnings that it turns the resin into gel.

Pat, let me state it again: I did not critique your modeling in any way. I simply pointed out that you were using a photo of another model (not a period photo of the real trolly) as a reference. That's it - period! I As for my latest modeling, if we are talking about automotive subject, it was a 1:43 scale 289 Cobra. One of these days I'll post it in the Under Glass section. Here are couple of photos: Lately I have been more involved in N-scale model railroad hobbies. I often take the model locomotives apart to fine tune them or modify the mechanism to run better. I also install and program digital decoders. I'm my model clubs loco mechanic. Here are some photos of a Gernam E77 loco I was servicing and installing a decoder in. I fully disassembled it. There is very little room in that model for a decoder. Here is the original circuit board from that loco and the DCC decoder I'm going to install (smaller board). I cut a hole in the original circuit board and "transplanted" the decoder into the hole. I also upgraded the headlights from regular light bulbs to white LEDs. I etched my owrn PC boards to house resistors and to make wiring easier. Finally the chassis was reassembled. I hope you don't mind posting these off-topic photos in your thread, but you did ask me to show some of my models.

Wow! Pat seem to think that the photo was a period photo showing the 1:1 trolly. If I just stated that I thought it was a photo of a model, I expected to be questioned why I thought it was not the "real" thing, so I simply documented the reasons I thought it was a model. It had *NOTHING* to do with Pat's modeling, or meant to belittled him. All I wanted to explain was that the photo Pat described as "period" photo (and was using for color reference), was not. Somehow this all got turned around. Why should I not say something when I feel the info provided is not accurate? And yes, I needed to analyze what happened because as I see things, I did nothing wrong. Hopefully analyzing this will help me not to make a similar mistake.

To me this car has some hints of a Ford Probe, and also maybe even Pontiac Fiero.

In my post (which got deleted) I merely stated that what Pat perceived as a prototype photo (Pat was using as a prototype reference for his model) appeared to me as a photo of a model. I also listed the reasons I thought it was a model photo. Ken confirmed that it was a model photo. Not sure why Pat took that so personally. I did not berate his model in any way. I simply stated my opinion about a photo (which was not of Pat's model). I also do not represent or speak for this forum. I'm really confused now, especially that Pat cheerfully accepted Ken's confirmation that the photo Pat used for reference was a model (not a "period photo").

Exactly! Have you looked at the prices of everything (like groceries) lately?

Going by my experience with Micro-brushes, if you accidentally touch too close to the liquid CA (especially the extra thin stuff), it can wick into the brush and glue the bristles together. That's why I went the disposable brush route.

My favorite "kicker" is Bob Smith Industries (BSI) CA accelerator. It has almost no odor, and it doesn't instantly dissolve paint or plastic like some other brands. It also doesn't leave residue when it evaporates. As far as applicators go, I use Microbrushes. Never spray. I dab the surface close to the liquid CA -- the accelerator spreads out, and gets to the glue on its own. Those brushes are disposable, so if one gets clogged with hardened CA glue, I just trash it and use a fresh one. I used to use a tiny home-made squeeze bottle with a small gauge hypodermic needle tip, but it used to clog if I accidentally touched too close to the liquid CA, so I switched to Microbrushes. Since very little accelerator is needed to "kick" the CA, I usually use the small (white handle) ones.

Actually, Dave Ambrose is the "man behind the curtain" dealing with the technical stuff that runs the forum. But all the moderators are doing great (and thankless) job of policing the forum. I suspect there is not much control in the placement of the ads, and for some strange reason this forum seems to have lots more problems with the ads annoyingly taking over the entire screen than the other forums I frequent. I suspect that this has something to do with the forum software itself (the way the code is written). The other forums use different underlying software.

That looks like a photo of a model, not a period photo of the 1:1 item.

But isn't the paint over the primer acting as a barrier, so the stripping solution can't get straight to the primer?

I participate on a model RR forum and members there have been using 3D printers for several years. There is a 3D printing section chock full of useful info (like all the special tricks they use when printouts fail). I realize that that it is a model RR forum, but printing 3D parts is printing 3D parts, regardless of what type of a model they are for. I don't think you have to be a member to view that forum. All ya all will likely find threads there useful, and learn something there. https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?board=45.0

I assume that you lie it down on the bench? If yes, just put it on some piece of rubber. A properly positioned elastic works for me. I also assume that one of those rubber disks made for opening tight glass jar lids would also do the trick. A rubber glove would probably work too.

Huh? The one that shows up under the text in my post (Model Builders' Warehouse 3D Printed Borrani Wire Wheels). Click on it. If for some reason you don't see it in my earlier post, here is a "plain" link to that thread: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/150587-model-builders-warehouse-3d-printed-borrani-wire-wheels/

Could also be the bottle. I have some older clear plastic blister packs which yellowed badly over time. Should be easy to tell what yellowed. If it is the bottle itself, it will be yellow below and above the liquid level. If it is just the liquid, then the yellow tint will only be up to the fluid level. Bottle above the fluid should look clear.

Dan, your effort looks pretty good. You might also look at the following thread for some inspiration: I bought some of Randy's 3D printed wheels and they were exquisite. What is amazing about those 3D printed wheels is that the spokes are interlaced (front to back) just like the 1:1 wheels. This feature is not achievable in either photoetched or wire-laced wheels. But it is not as important in your motorcycle-type wheels where the spokes don't really cross front-to-back.

And rubber gloves - Lye will "eat" skin.

John, what you're doing is not welcome on this forum. I smell a thread lock, or worse. And you only have been around for less than a month . . .

LOL Mike! In that case print out some pictures on your printer and snail-mail them to him. Or if he lives close enough, visit him and bring your models with you for that wonderful in-person 3D viewing.

I avoid primers as much as possible. Since I mostly use plastic compatible (stinky) hobby paints, those adhere well to bare plastic. I'm a firm believer that keeping the paint layer as thin as possible makes for better looking model. But from what I read on the forum, if you use water-based (low-odor) paints, those do not adhere well to bare plastic, so primer is recommended.

Yeah, as you get older memory is the second thing to go . . .

No comments? I thought that there were plenty of older guys on this forum. This would be a good car to model. Too bad the Pinto hatchback kits are so rare.

Oh yeah, those "mouse balls" are actually large steel balls with a thin rubbery coating. They can do some real damage when flung hard. My GF actually had one of those trackballs and for years preferred it over a mouse. I tried it, but never liked it. And trackballs stink for gaming.

Wow, you;'re gong way back! I don't think you can still find those mice anywhere. Yes, they were pain, but were the only thing available back in 1990s. Actually , back then I used to repair Sun Microsystems workstations and Sun had their own 3-button mice. Even back then they were optical (not ball), but they also required you to use dedicated mouse pad. It was made of aluminum and had a fine grid pattern printed on it (for the optical sensors). The mouse did not work without that special mouse pad. I use wired mice, but I do have one Bluetooth wireless mouse. The batteries last pretty long, and when they get low, the LED indicator starts blinking orange. It is very reliable, except when it sometimes "unpairs" from the laptop, and has to be paired again.

April is still few months away.