peteski

If you hover the cursor over the blue dot, it explains what it indicates. Not something you need to worry about. If you are using a phone or tablet, I don't know how to get the "hover effect". Actually a lot of new apps hide stuff under cryptic icons that you have to hover over to figure out what they mean.

Thanks for addressing the comments in my post Tim. Yes, you did not have access to the 1:1 vehicle, but I suspect that those dimensions could have been provided by someone on this forum. There are plenty of members here that possibly either own that car, or have access to one if needed. But at this time, it is neither here nor there, and you are correct that each one of us sees things at least slightly differently, and we all approach this hobby with a varied degrees of passion. I totally disagree with that Bob. 3D printing of prototypes from a CAD file is not only widely used, but also quite inexpensive. And why only "few times"? A print can be done hundreds of times, if needed. It is not like it is a resin casting from RTV mold that wears out. You can print however many times you need to. There are modelers on this forum who have 3D printers at home and print as many copies of some object as they need. There are also companies like Shapeways that allow the designers to sell as many copies of their design as customers are willing to buy. Your statement makes no sense to me.

Ah, in that case 8-pin connector makes sense. I too hope that the mount will be robust enough for your model!

Bob, cold is not what can damage the kit's parts and decals -- it is excessive heat and humidity.

Well unless you are modeling a car with the tires just sprayed with a tire protectant spray (like Armor-All, or some other tire spray). Then they are glossy. Many owners do this to their car's tires before they enter a car show. Byt yes, in most cases tires will not be glossy.

Well, (while my suggestions in that thread were not inflammatory), I think that Tim deflecting, or ignoring any comments about the inaccuracy of the body (which clearly seemed to be "off" to the knowledgeable modelers who actually cared about the problem) didn't help things either. If Tim simply admit that the model was "off", that would have likely prevented some, or all of the animosity. But then again, Tim being in the position that he was in (reviewing a preproduction model supplied by the manufacturer) had to defend the model's accuracy. It was a tough position to be in. Seems like in this case it was a no-win situation for Tim and for the knowledgeable modelers making (increasingly inflammatory, after being ignored) comments. But if (as I mentioned) the manufacturer showed the 3D printed prototype body before cutting the tool, they would have gained valuable info from the "experts" on this forum, so the original tool would have been cut accurately. At least that is how I see it. Work out all the kinks before cutting tooling, crowd-sourcing the knowledge.

After several comments I made in the Tim Boyd's build thread (to take measurements of the kit's body and 1:1 car, since the kit obviously did not look like the 1:1 car), and all the dancing around the subject, the body is now corrected. I had a chuckle seeing that a correction was made (requiring major retooling), and I'm also glad that the manufacturer listened to the modeler's comments. But OTOH, maybe the decision to retool the kit was made without any consideration to the comments made on this forum. We will likely never know. Either way I'm very happy that the model was corrected. I also think that with the way things are today (all this online presence), it would be beneficial to everybody if manufacturers allowed online modelers to comment on new kits being made, even before tooling is cut. Most are now CAD-designed and prototyped using 3D printing. Showing those to a bunch of knowledgeable modelers could prevent errors in the final product.

Thanks for your reply Simon, but my question was what was the reason for using 8-pin connector when only 4 connections were needed. As far as the styrene socket goes, even with just one kilo, the socket is relatively short and there will be a lot of pressure applied to it. It is a type of a fulcrum. If it was my precious model, I would reinforce it (maybe by using some metal straps around). I would not depend on just styrene glued with CA. Call me paranoid, but seeing all the work that went into this model, I would use the proverbial suspenders and a belt.

Pretty clever. Hopefully the styrene female "socket" will be strong enough to support the entire ship. I'm curious why you need 8 pins if only 4 connections are needed? Reliability? Extra current carrying capacity?

Because unlike when making wine, stomping on the models with your feet will not only crush the models -- it will also hurt your feet!

Do you wax your model's paint before applying BMF, or are you applying it over flat finish paint? If yes, then BMW will not stick well, but judging by what I have read about the recently manufactured BMF is that the adhesive is sub-par. I still have a stash of the older BMF, so what I wrote is not based on personal experience.

True, but if one is handy in recovering some of the fluid that dripped off the model, and pour it back in the bottle of can, all the more power to them.

THey seem to really want to become like amazon, and just get get rid of any type of organization of their stuff. Who needs categories anyway, right?

Visit couple of local automotive body shops and ask the guys that paint the cars whether what you stated is true. You know? Those professional spray painters? I can just see them rolling on the floor laughing. Seriously dude!! Wake up! Also, there are professional auto body people who are members here, and lots and lots of modelers who produce superb airbrushed and rattle-can paint jobs. LISTEN TO THEM, AND SKIP THE "pure physics, algebra, meteorology and chemistry" stuff. Someone here needs a dope-slap here (and it's not me).

Several past posts? How did you miss the huge strippers thread (pinned in the Q&A section) with hundreds of very helpful, and not so helpful posts, where you can find info on about pretty much all plastic-safe strippers ever manufactured (and even about somoe home-brewed ones). Why start yet another stripper thread? I adimit that I did post a message in your thread, but upon reflection, I really don't see how yet another thread rehashing strippers will be of any use. Dude, post your question in the strippers thread.

There is no magical strip-all stripping solution. I mention that every time when someone says "brand X is the best stripper". Neah. Different paints respond differently to different strippers. I have about half a dozen different strippers in my stripping arsenal. As far as Scalecoat Wash Away Paint remover, going by smell, it is similar to ELO. I recall that a label on one of my older ELO bottles listed ingredients, and the main ingredient is a chemical related to the DOT3 brake fluid. Slightly different, but in the same family (going by its name). Scalecoat works well, but I would never leave anything immersed in it for a long time,and besides, that is not what the instructions tell you to do. Probably for a good reason. Also be very careful using ELO or Scalecoat on any Urethane resin castings.

If what I read in forums on the Internet is true, the problem is out of their control (and very unlikely they can find an alternate source for the stuff they used to sell as Chrome Bare Metal Foil). I hope I'm wrong.

"Work"!? Neah -- it's research-in-perpetual-progress.

What is surprising that I have seen some people (earlier in this thread?) mentioned that their kit did not have the ill-fitting bonnet. I wonder if theirs was packaged in a way that the bonnet was not slipped over the cowl.

Excellent modeling, and superb photography! With the natural lighting and backgrounds, the models look like 1:1 vehicles! The weathering is also excellent!

Well, that's why I'm still watching the comments here. Just no more advice from me. Not worth wasting my time and energy tryign to provide some of my hands-on experience to "Mr. Theoretical". After readying all the threads he has posted here I also begun suspecting that he is just having fun with us, but he might actually be serious (in the type of questions he posts, and in ignoring all the helpful hints).

Fellow model builder? Are you sure "Mr. Anonymous" has actually built anything lately? He seems to be too busy with theoretical musings about model paint gravity. I no longer give him any advice, but I am reading all the replies from everybody, including Mr. Crazy, as I find it all very amusing. What's funniest here is that he received a pretty useful reply from the paint manufacturer, which he chose to ignore and continue his quest for perfection on the first try. This thread is the silliest thing I have seen in a very long time.

LOL! While the first example is spot-on, I suspect that not many young people know anything about "All in the Family" or its spinoffs.

I agree on both counts. The whole world is going to hell in a hand basket! Good thing that we don't live forever. I can barely stand the way the world is now. Time to go down to my workshop and immerse myself in a modeling projects to forget the crazy world around us.

Ah, FHC. Duh! Got it. I like the car, so I bought the kit, but not being a Jag expert I had not clue what FHC meant. Well, now I get that the "C" must stand for "coupe". I have never seen the Heller kit in person, but looking at the online photos of built ones and of the parts, I think that overall the Revell is a better kit. Well, if you are willing to accept the windshield thing in FHC. I'm not crazy about the Revell tires, but they are acceptable, and the wire wheels are much nicer than Heller's. Of course you can likely use aftermarket wheels for the Heller kit. Both kits seem pretty good, but neither one is perfect. The bottom line is that it is up to you to choose which is least objectionable to you.