peteski

David, are you saying that even though you never had a top-loader, your wife wanted one (but couldn't get it)? So you got that LG front-loader and it stinks. That means that your previous (front-loader) washers worked well?

I've been FSM subscriber for over 30 years and yes, the printed edition has gotten really slim. They provide most of the "real" contents online (not I don't go there). I'm thinking of dropping the paid subscription since my whole reason to subscribe was a nice "fat" paper magazine which I prefer to read on paper instead of a computer screen. Even with 6 issues, I highly doubt that the printed version will get any more pages. They are really pushing the online articles. This really stinks, but everybody seems to be ditching the printed magazines and going to online version. Few more years and printed version will go the way of horse and buggy.

You could laser-cut micro-plywood into pickup truck beds, and flat-bed trailers wooden decks. Not sure if anybody else is doing this type of thing.

Interesting. I have been noticing in general that more women than man drive very aggressively around my area. Used to be the other way around.

LOL Thomas, The Maytag Corporation is an American home and commercial appliance brand owned by Whirlpool Corporation. Just like with everything else (cars food, etc), appliance companies acquire other appliance companies or merge. Hard to be loyal to certain brand when it is no longer a standalone product.

The CRI info is hit and miss. For a while most LED bulbs and lamps had a common type of label which looked like this: But lately it seems that it has not been used as much. Too bad because that label had all the important facts on it. Just today I bought a replacement fluorescent tube (not LED) for over-the-sink light in my kitchen. That one has CRI of 90. And color temperature 3000K Color temperature is also another parameter to look for. Lower numbers (Like 2600K) are more yellowish (warm), and higher numbers (like 6000K) are more harsh bluish light. Some people prefer the warm white while others like the more start cool white. 3000K is sort of in the middle. Neither yellow, nor blue. It is similar type of white light emitted by halogen incandescent bulbs.

When shopping for LED or fluorescent lightning it is important to find out its Color Rendering Index (CRI). That is how well the light will render all the colors. Anything over 90 is good, below that, no so much. Low-CRI light sources will make some colors appear dull (in my experience especially reds). Not very good when we use all sorts of colors on our models. Many (but not all) lights or lamps will have their CRI value mentioned on the packaging.

Laser cut automotive kits?! There are plenty in the model railroading hobby (mostly structures and car loads), but I never heard of any laser-cut scale kits of vehicles. Because of the nature of laser-cut materials (mostly stiff flat wood sheets), the compound curves of automobiles cannot be modeled very well. Maybe you meant "paper models"? I supposed those could also be laser cut and bent, folded, or shaped fairly well to represent complex curved surfaces.

Thanks Dave, it makes more sense to see who felt the need to respond to a post.

Interesting. I did not know that. The packaging looks similar to the the Microscale adhesive. I wonder if it is the same stuff relabeled as BMF?

My oldest (actually the first ever sheet of BMF chrome foil), is over 30 years old, and whatever foil still remains on the backing paper still has good adhesion. Hard to believe, right? If the other sheets I bought later have adhesive that lasts as long, that will be lifetime of model building for me (I don't expect to model or even live past 90). ?

BMF Adhesive? AFAIK, BMF does not make or sell just the adhesive. Are you sure that is the name? But there is:

That one does look quite close to the OP's motor. Good find Ace.

No idea what it is, but it sure is a pretty looking sporty car. Those "brows" over the headlights give it sort of angry look.

New appliances are packed with all sorts of computers and other electronics. Good luck with it. I dread the day when I no longer can keep my 35+ year Kenmore top-loader (with all mechanical controls) running. It was designed to wash clothes and that is what it does. No fancy computers or sensors to break. It does not play songs at the end of the cycle, or make chirping noises.

I model in N scale (1:160) -- tiny trains, but I have also messed around larger scale trains. I doubt it is O scale (tinplate) motor. Those are larger motors and don't use permanent magnets since they are AC motors. This motor is small enough to be from some H0 scale train, or maybe S scale. A basic permanent-magnet 12V DC motor. Like Ace said, this one appears to have the front bearing missing. Other than a curiosity, I would not bother with it. You can get much better motors on eBay for couple of dollars each.

I guess that will work, if that is the only choice left. But the matte aluminum foil was never nowhere as pliable as the original chrome foil. I still have a decent stash of the good stuff, and since I'm not a very prolific builder, hopefully it will last me until I no longer build models.

Guys, my original statement was "I suspect I know the region of the world this car was manufactured. " I did not state that the region wasn't USA!! I did not mention any part of the world either!! I also stated "I suspect", not "I know". Nowhere in there is any hint of the car's origin. You are all putting words in my mouth. In no way my statement is any sort of a hint as to the origin of the vehicle. I don't get it. In my second post I stated "If the photo was taken in USA (no reasons to doubt it), then I bet that car is far away from its homeland!". "I bet"? Is this really considered a hint? I'm no expert. I just don't get it.

You must have missed the sticky thread on buying your first airbrush/compressor in the Q & A section.

That sounds similar to SPAM and Robo calls we are fighting on our phones. So much guano to deal with!

The problem was likely triggered bu some change in your laundering routine. Have you changed the detergent or softener, or anything else? Like others said, I would avoid coating the screen with any oily substance. Not only it is flammable, it will likely cause more sticking. I have a drier that is around 40 years old. It has metal screen and the lint comes off really easily. I changed the screen about 5 years ago, just because it was ripped in few spots. You could always just rinse the lint off in your sink or bathtub. The lint should rinse right off. I would put some sort of a screen in the drain so the wet lint does not go down the drain (or do this outside using a garden hose). Then take a brush and some dishwashing detergent to clean the screen and remove all remains of the oily stuff you put on it. Hopefully, that will take care of the problem.

That really stinks! I feel for you! After the last Thanksgiving was a total bust for most people, this one will also be a bust for you guys. I don't blame you for being really aggravated.

Some modelers think that the metallic particles in silver paint prevent the red or yellow dye from bleeding through. I guess you haven't heard of that. Are you saying that just using plain flat white paint (what brand?) undercoat will prevent dye bleed-through that primers and silver paint can't prevent?

Don, you either got up on the wrong side of the bed this morning, or you are being funny. Since we aren't face-to-face it is hard do tell how what your intentions were. No emoticons, or other clues. Hmmm, maybe you were pissed off. Excuse my poor choice of words. With English being my 2nd language, I thought "homeland" was when one was born.

Ah, a notchback. Got it.