peteski

Kevin, tha type of question you are askign comes up here fairly frequently. There is also a sticky thread in this forum about airbrushes. You might want to brush up on that lengthy thread. Here is a thread which goes into types of paints to use. Many of us use "stinky" (not water-based) paints. Especially if you are looking for some specific automotive body color.

30 minutes in solvent in an ultrasonic cleaner?!?!? Holy crapolla! How long did the airbrush sit uncleaned? 10 years?!? I don't get it. I said it earlier, like Mike, I give my airbrush a good flushing (lacquer thinner) after ever paint job. I have not timed myself, but it has to be less than 7 minutes. Probably more like 3. That gets the airbrush really clean. But I on;t use "stinky" paints. I have no experience with water-based paints, but I have heard that they can clog up airbrushes.

Why not just sit back and enjoy the fact that it appears that the "good" chrome BMF will be available again soon? From the info (emails from BMF) posted here it seems that BMF does not "make" the foil in-house. They have an outside supplier that makes the stuff. BMF might receive it in a roll which they then cut and package, or maybe the supplier does all that. Who knows. But we should be overjoyed that we will have the stuff back.

Ah, you man a soldering gun (not a pencil type iron). I have not used one of those for over 40 years. Problem with melting the dimples (using any sort of a hot tip) is that it will leave raised edges. Yes, they can be sanded, but then the dimples sill still have steep edge. Hail damage dimples have gently curving edges. I think what Doug did looks pretty convincing (but the dimples would need to be all closer to the same size (not large in one area, and small in other places). Doug was probably just experimenting, but if made more uniform size, they would looks realistic to me.

As opposed to what? Plain 3M makings tape? The original green Frog masking tape's claim to fame is that the edges (just the edges) are coated with some sort of water absorbing substance, which when in contact with water-based acrylic latex paints (used to paint house walls) absorbs the water, swells and seals the edge tight. That's all. it is not any better than regular tape when used with non-water-based paints. I bought a roll (probably about 20 or 30 years ago) when it just came to the market, and had an intense TV ad campaign. Back then they didn't explain in detail what made it so special (that info came later). I used it once or twice and put it back in its container (where it still sits today). I have not pursued it any further, but I understand that the Frog tape now comes with more varieties, but if they all still use the water-absorbing seal, it is no better for "stinky" automotive or hobby paints we use for our models. Also, since the "special stuff" is only at the edge, if you trim the edge off (like many of us do to get a clean straight edge) then it is no better than ordinary tape. It really pays to do the research about the supplies we use for our hobbies. Educated modeler is a good modeler.

Be careful using paper towels (or other porous or absorbent materials). The paint solvents from the paint you are spraying can permeate the paper towel and possibly affect the dry paint in the masked areas.

No, those need stronger paint solvents (like lacquer thinner). Chromium is resistant to most chemicals. Ammonia will attach the brass parts. Windex has a rather low percentage of ammonia. Ammonia can be used for cleaning up water-based acrylic enamels. As for Super Clean, I would not get that stuff anywhere near delicate airbrush parts (or even in the ultrasonic tub). Super Clean contains lye and other caustic chemicals. I would not use it on metal parts. If it splashes out, it can also attack your clothing and skin. Read the warnings on the Super Clean container. As for airbrush cleaning, IMO the best way to do that (and how I do it) is to disassemble the airbrush then use lacquer thinner and pipe cleaners to get all the passages clean. I flush the airbrush really well (with lacquer thinner) after each spraying session, so it basically stays very clean. I do the complete disassembly/cleaning only about once a year.

I guess that is the price to pay for quality decals. Their thinness makes them fragile. While I don't know how you apply them, if you are used to thicker decals your technique might need to be modified for these decals. Use plenty of water (with some setting solution added) under the decal. That will make it easier to re-position. You can add even more water after you laid the decal on the model. Once in its final resting place, use an edge of a paper towel to soak up the extra water around the decal. Then if needed, use decal setting solutions. Don't touch the decal once it is at its final position.

Eh, it is just a new generation of designers styling new generation cars. They probably think it looks cool (or whatever the current word for "cool" is).

That is great, but this section of the forum is dedicated to discussions about the Model Cars Magazine, not about the MCM forum.

Funny thing is that I would never think of trying to make a model of hail damaged vehicles. That's IMO ugly. But I guess if you see enough of those cars, they might grow on you.

When spraying flexible plastic parts with automotive paints shouldn't adhesion promoted be used? That is how things were done back before waterborne paints. I have no experience with those.

Sure, for reducing the paint for airbrushing. But the question being asked was specifically about cleaning brushes (likely not to waste the expensive thinners).

Well yes, we are both speculating here.

Even so, why sand those hundreds of thin "grate" like pieces? Those are so small that they probably aren't textured. And even if they were, that texture would disappear under a coat of primer, color and possibly clear. If I was painting those to match the car color, I would probably mask and paint those thin grate-like parts black, so they not be visible.

Well hopefully after he returns from vacation. In our hobbies we often have to wait for things (weeks, months years).

Why do you ask? Do you normally use water-based paints? Rubbing alcohol (either 70 or 91%) )is too weak to clean your brushes well. "Well" is the keyword. Lacquer thinner (generic from hardware store is fine) is the way to go. Acetone will also work.

Ok, then those are printed in Italy (by Cartograf). Those are best quality decals in the world, and the are super thin (read: very fragile). Nothing like the old Revell decals which were almost as thick as peel-n-stick stickers. Cartograf decals also respond to setting solutions well. Because they are so thin and fragile, they have to be applied very, very carefully. But when they dry, they look like they are painted on.

Yea, that seemed like a good idea when I heard about it. I only used that stuff once and never again! The plastic foil has texture and when it is peeled off the model, the edges of the bumps in the foll left some adhesive on the model. It was a real paint to clean off. Once burned, twice shy. I have plenty of alternatives not needing Press-n-Seal.

Does the decal sheet have any written identification (like Made in Italy)?

Thanks for the follow up. The whole thing made no sense, and now we know why. Strange substance on the plastic affecting paint's drying/curing.

It's not without issues. We have a good comparison here in this forum:

That's a lot of sanding! But why sand bare plastic? Unless you use water-based paints, the "stinky" paints will stick really well to plastic. No sanding should be required. And if you really want to scuff the plastic, maybe just use a small brass-bristle brush on the zillion of those little squares. Sometimes those are called "suede brush".

Give this man a prize!

LOL! You gave me a good chuckle. Why not spell the words correctly anyway? It is not like it takes longer to do that. What makes me roll my eyes is people spelling "Testors" as "Testers", but that is probably that auto-correct features on their schmart-devices.