peteski

In SLRs (and I assume in DSLRs) the mirror is only in the optical path for composing the image through the viewfinder. When shutter is pressed, the mirror lifts up out of the optical path to allow the image to be captured by the image sensor at the back of the camera (where the film in SLRs used to be). Because of that the only places that the fuzz can be in are in the lens, or on the image sensor. If the fuzz is visible in the viewfinder (look at some uniform colored area (like clear sky or a piece of paper), then the fuzz is in the lens.

As I recall, ELO directions specifically mention not to immerse the item, but simply coat it with the liquid. DOT3 brake fluid (triethylene glycol monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monobutyl ether) is also not perfectly safe. I had it make some plastics brittle. The lesson here is that no stripping job is alike - always test and always be careful. Actually ELO's main ingredient (Dipropylene Glycol Monobutyl Ether) is similar to what is in DOT3 brake fluid.

Thank you David. I'll give them a try.

You did a really ice job on this kit David! You inspired me to find and buy that kit. Even thought it was just released last year, it is hard to find in USA. I got it through eBay from a hobby shop in Canada (few were also available from France, UK, and Italy but the shipping charges were too high). I just got it couple of days ago. The molding quality shows its vintage age. Mine also has sink marks on the nose, and the detail around the headlamps is a bit soft. But the worse part is the major distortion of the body. It appears that when the body was ejected from the mould, there was stress put on the gate attached to the side of the body and the plastic set in that shape. Was the body in your kit also distorted? I'm thinking of trying to use hot water to fix that distortion, but I would rather have an undistorted body. I wonder if Hornby would send a replacement body to USA? I guess I should contact them.

If you use them in a handheld power tool be ready for them to snap. Especially the smaller diameter ones. They are supper sharp and pleasure to use, but Tungsten Carbide is very hard, and very brittle. I own a large selection, and whenever I can, I buy the smaller diameter bits by the box of 50. That way I have lots of spares. As you can see, these bits are so good that I'm addicted to using them. Probably about 10 years ago, there was a seller on eBay selling them really cheap in boxes of 50.. Some resharpened, some used (with plenty of life still left). That is when I accumulated most of my stash.

Did you thin down the pillars? This body looks so much better than the other bodies I have seen with the clunky pillars. This one looks just like a real car.

That's a pretty color.

Well, we are all individuals and interpret things differently. Here is the sentence in question To me "we [the modelers] have little choice" seems to imply that RPM bought out all the the competitors (hobby paint). and now they can charge whatever they feel like. But whatever . . . Steve has the right idea. If we don't like it, we just shouldn't put up our money for it.

Oh well - just trying to help out. I am a very sloppy eater (even though I really try not to be). Should get a T-shirt with an integrated bib! Yes, order goof-ups are very common in this day and age, but I do prefer salsa to the crappy sour cream and cheese. Asking "make it Fresco" seems to work most of the time for me. And as I mentioned, Taco Bell food is by design very prone to squirting stuff all over you. That is something I learned to live with. I'm glad you are feeling better after venting.

Some are. There is no denying. But not at the Augusta's Chicken Shack (my local favorite). They make them fresh using pieces of white meat chicken (not some ground up goop), hand bread them, and fry them to delicious brown color. Moist and tender!. They even smell really tasty. Just had soem yesterday. But they are getting very pricey!

My point was not to specifically (and only) blame RPM. They don't make all their paint making ingredients in-house - everybody down the chain of suppliers RPM utilizes has jacked up their prices. RPM just passes those increases to the consumer, while also making their own profits. Plus he seemed to imply that RPM bought Testors during the pandemic just to jack up the prices.

Polystyrene melting point is ~ 240 °C (464 °F). Not everythign we see on the Interwebs is true and accurate.

Are you implying that RPM bought out Testors within the last few (COVID) years?! That would be totally inaccurate. RPM owned Testors, Floquil and many other brands for many years before COVID. Your view is a huge and very inaccurate generalization of the current world situation, but getting deeper into this goes well beyond what we discuss on this forum,

About 25 years ago I had and built the other version of this kit: LP500S. The one which included wheel well flares, rear wing, front spoiler, and 5-hole gold plated wheels (which I painted silver). it is a very nice kit. Lots of details, and working suspension. I built it box-stock. Here is mine (photo taken right after I built it in the '90s). Brian, yours is coming along nicely. Dennis, I love the added-on details and decals, and I like the way you made those black wire looms.

Is that really necessary? You of all the people, you know first hand how sturdy resin 3D prints can be. Some 3D resins are similar to polystyrene, and there are thousands of injection molded styrene kits out there with thin A-pillars shipped problem free all over the world. To me that excessive thickness detracts from the fidelity of the model. It makes it clunky. If the entire body was printed thinner, it would have less mass. It could safely be wrapped in paper towels and placed in a sturdy cardboard box (just like most resin-cast kits are. Those survive shipping just fine, and many of them have bodies (and pillars) pretty thin. The MGB GT transkit I bought recently has resin cast parts, and the body is as thin as the original plastic MGB. That kit's master patterns were 3D printed, then cast using urethane resin. It survived shipping from UK to USA without any special packaging. The thickness of the bodies is a real put-off for me. Otherwise those look like very good renditions of the 1:1 vehicle bodies.

I agree that all those sauces kill the flavor of the food. Why use chicken nugget just as a vehicle for some sauce? Might as well dip a piece of cardboard in the sauce and eat that. You won't taste the cardboard. It also seems that Americans are obsessed with adding cheese to everything. I don't like cheese (except for mozarella on pizza, since that cheese has not real flavor). I'm they guy who orders hamburgers and ask to skip cheese on other types of burgers. As for Taco Bell, just ask "make it Fresco" for your items. That skips the sour cream and cheese, replacing them instead with delicious Fresco Salsa. Before they offered that option I used to always ask them to not add cheese and sour cream. https://tacobell.fandom.com/wiki/Fresco But most Taco Bell items are messy, so either be careful, or wear a bib.

Huh? What's that all about? That is a one unusual initial post (in a 3-year-old thread). Welcome to the forum Jamie.

Ok, fair enough. Still, I would be leery of using the brushed motors (which always generate sparks), in a exhaust system for flammable gasses, unless the motor was totally sealed off. Shaded pole AC induction motors are safer (and lower rpms much quieter than any shop vac).

LOL, of course you are. All our internet activity is being tracked by AI.

I have been watching these models in various threads here. They appear to be designed really well as far as body proportions go. One thing that really bugs me about them is how thick the bodies are. That is very apparent on the A-pillars. If the windshield installs from the inside, they will not look very realistic. If it goes in from the outside, it will be difficult to glue it in without the glue showing. I'm not sure why they are so thick. Even home 3D printing ls advanced enough (especially that brown resin) to make the bodies much thinner, and the resin should be robust enough for a sturdy body. As for the windows bucks, they should be usable for making vacu-formed (or smash-molded) windows from thin clear PET sheet.

I think the problem is not what type of paint is in the can, but how well the can is made (sealed) at the factory. Back in the day, quality control was likely tighter than it is now.

That is not true at all. Some of the air stream in vacuum cleaners is actually passed through the motor for cooling it. Plus, making it even more dangerous, vacuum cleaner motors are motors with brushes which spark while running. Never use any vacuum cleaner for extraction of flammable fumes!! BAD IDEA! The kitchen or bathroom exhaust fan, while not quite appropriate, would be safer than a vacuum cleaner motor because exhaust fans use shaded-pole AC induction motors which do not have sparking brushes.

He's right you know.

Another click-bait thread.

Yup, those are all covered in that handy thread I pointed to.