peteski

How about printing it almost vertically (so it fits on the build plate?

It is a well proven fact that it is in human nature to complain more than give praises. Move along -- nothing to see here . . .

Oh alright Noel, you're forgiven. Whether it is 500 pages, or 12 and a half thousand individual posts, those are impressive numbers of irks.

How about creating a small segment of the tire (like a segment of an orange), then duplicating it while rotating it around the center of the tire?

The number of pages (not posts) contained in a thread has always been shown after the thread's subject line (since I joined the forum in 2014). If it's less than 25 posts no number of pages shows up. Is there now some place that actually shows the actual post count in a thread? I don't see it.

Yes, but those 55 bids were made by 12 individual bidders. One of the bidders place bunch of what I call "nickel and dime" bids early in the auction. Still. 12 bidders is nothing to sneeze about. Bids: 55 Bidders: 12

I guess you didn't understand. It is not about being sealed. Some people (Like Jesse above) take those new, unused Priority Mail boxes picked up for free from the PO and turn them inside out (so they no longer have the colorful USPS Priority Mail graphics all over them). Originally the inside of those boxes was just plain brown (like any other box). But USPS figured out that people were doing it, so they started printing identification text all over the inner brown side, so when turned inside out, they still show that they are USPS Priority Mail boxes. It is supposed to be a deterrent for using those boxes for services other that Priority Mail. This deterrent however likely only works when someone tries to mail those boxes through USPS (using cheaper service, like Parcel Post). Unfortunately for USPS I don't think that UPS, DHL, or FedEx will reject a package just because it has the "USPS Priority Mail" written all over the box.

Whenever the subject of relatively high price being paid for a finished model (like this one) is brought up, I don't see the comments as negative. At least in this thread. What I see is the amazement and puzzlement of why (according to the values of the person making the post) would someone spend *THAT* much money for a model. I don't think that is a negative comment - just surprise. We all have ideas of what values to assign to what things, and what is extravagant spending. There are obviously collectors out there who are ok with spending $3k on a nice model, just like there are collectors willing to spend millions of dollars for a piece of canvas with some oil paint applied to it (and find it valuable even if the thing shreds itself). I started this thread mainly because I thought it was a really nice one-of-a-kind model. As for the final price, it was a bit surprising to me, but as others have said, more the power to Mr. Hettic. As a side note, he also had his '77 T-bird complete resin up kit for auction that same evening , and it fetched $327.50. That's is for unbuilt kit. So even model builders have no problem paying more than an average resin kit cost for a unique resin kit.

Huh? 500 posts? How did you figure that out? I see that this thread has 498 pages. Each page (for me) contains 25 posts. That is around 12,450 posts. Yes over 12 thousand! Still fewer posts than the silly ONCE UPON A TIME thread which was started 5 years later, and is already up to 779 pages, which is over 19 thousand posts!!!

The accessories (stuff up front) screamed "Austraila", but other then looking at the photo I did not additional research.

Back in 2013 members were hosting photos on external websites (like Photobucket or Fotki). The photos are likely gone because the hosting account was deleted or the links to then have changed over the years. Maybe someone will have a magic answer, but I wouldn't hold my breath. Another possibility would be to find a way to contact Porscheman and see if he still has copies of the photos.

Funny that there can be "shades" of black. Are you worried about the paint being "dead" black in hue, or have a "dead" flat finish, or both?

For a 1:25 dwarf car a 1:32 scale model would likely be the right size.

That is one elegant and slick looking car!

I've been watching Paul's eBay listings for some time. He just sold another a one-of-a-king built resin model. He does such a good job with models which will likely never be produced. Here is a link to the (closed) auction listing: https://www.ebay.com/itm/154850234323

For protecting while handling, I wrap some stretched Parafilm-M over the "chrome" part. It just clings with no adhesive and does not leave any residue when removed. In the past I recall some kit "chrome" having factory-applied layer of clear paint over the metalization. Yes, there is a layer of clear applied before the metal is deposited, but those parts had an outside layer of clear applied over the metalization, but I have not seen this done for some time now.

Every additional layer of paint adds to the overall thickens of paint. Since the paint thickness is not 1:24 scale, I prefer to minimize the number of paint layers on my models so the model looks realistic (not like it is dipped in honey). Yes sometimes there is need for primer or undercoat for translucent (or "hot" solvent) top layer paints, but whenever I can, I spray over bare plastic. If I was painting a model using metallic black plastic safe hobby paint, if the bare plastic is black or dark, I would likely not use any base coat. But it is always prudent to do a paint test on a spoon, plastic bottle, or a scrap model to test various techniques (like how the final coat will look with or without dark base coat).

In my experience (judging by the questions that are repeatedly asked in new threads) pinning doesn't seem to help people to find answers. But I guess if not for anything else, it would make it easier to members who answer those repeated questions to find the thread in question and point the person asking to the appropriate thread. But then how war do we take this? We will eventually end up with 20-30 pinned threads.

That is sad, be are all getting old! I just saw her few weeks ago in an old episode of My Three Sons. She was a tall young lady playing a daughter of a Swedish (or was it Dutch?) company official. Fred McMurray was tasked to take her around town. She she looked pretty hot and she looked familiar but couldn't figure out who she was. But a quick look at IMDB give me her name.

When was the last time you did that? For several years now the inner surface of USPS Priority Mail boxes has "Thank you for using Priority Mail Service" printed all over the surface. It is quite visible.

Great job on the Firebird! Rockford Files was/is one of my favorite TV series. He seemed to always get beat up or in some sort of trouble, but always ended up solving the case. You felt compassion for him. Well written show. Of course the lady characters were nice too. Mention of the trailed jogged my memory. Like a deja-vou all over again. I recall a thread about @Repstockdoing a diorama few years ago.

Erik, thank you for doing this comparison. I was more than happy to provide you with a sample, especially since you already had several other types of foil at your disposal (and I don't). Like Jim, I think it is some sort of extremely thin vinyl wrap type of material (In my experience Mylar is not very stretchy). Hasegawa foil does have some stretchiness, but nowhere like the original BMF. The problem with that is that if its stretched into a depression in the model, even though it has a strong adhesive, after some time (sometimes couple of days) it will start relaxing to its original un-stretched state. Also unlike BMF, it cannot be "compressed" slightly -- it will just wrinkle. But it is by far the shiniest and smoothest foil. It will work well for straight chrome trim (like side moldings), or for large mostly flat areas.

Regardless of the cost of shrink wrapping vs. sticker seals, Revell DE (Germany) has used that sealing method for many years. After the latest round of mergers or acquisitions the line between Revell DE and Revell USA is blurrier than ever. Things like size of the boxes, type of box sealing, etc. will be mixed and matched. You can't just identify the origin of a kit by the sealing method or box size. As far as that VW kit goes, yes, it comes in American size box, but look at the side panel. It clearly states: Manufactured by Revell Germany (with the kit parts made in Poland, decals made in Italy). Bottom of the box also shows "Revel GmbH (Germany) Distributed in USA and Canada by Revell USA LLC". What we have here is the result of having the kit produced by a typical "global company". I am also amused that none of it is made in China. That is rare nowadays. So I totally contribute the round seals on the box to the fact that this kit originated at Revell DE. In the end, does any of this matter? Kit is a kit, regardless of its origin. And that is quite a nice kit.

It seems in Jeff's case the shipping box is not damaged, but the kit boxes inside are. I have ordered plenty of kits through mail and I don't ever recall any of the kit boxes being damaged (if the shipping carton is undamaged). That's just not right if one buys factory-fresh new models. I would take photos of those damaged boxes and contact the company you bought the kits from. I have received damaged kit boxes from eBay auctions, but the fact that the boxes are dented, etc. is clearly stated in the auction listings, I know they will not be pristine.

BMF should be shiny enough. If you ever took a taillight apart you would likely notice that the reflector isn't mirrored (like in headlights) but a satin silver finish. But a flat silver surfac is not ideal. If you really want to make them look realistic you will need to scratchbuild a reflector to imitate one in the 1:1 car, then apply silver finish of your choice. Then place that reflector behind the red lens. That will give it the depth and the light will reflect like it does in the 1:1 taillight. Also remember that the lens is not just smooth lens - it has striations which also change the overall reflectivity. I have made reflectors for head and taillights for this model. I don't have a photo handy of the back, ut you can see that the surface behind the lens is not just flat. I actually also installed piece of clear rod painted clear amber for the directionals. This all doesn't not show very well in photos, but in-person it looks very realistic.