peteski

Very useful info - thanks Dusty! I did not know what you meant about Alclad "dusting up", but now I understand. If misted almost dry, it will create a "dusty surface. If you apply it too wet, it will dry looking dull. I guess I figured out the right technique to airbrush Alclad II chrome heavy enough not to "dust up", and still result in the "chrome like" shine.

Good info - thanks! Are all part sprayed with AK? I'm asking because some look chrome-like wile others look like dull aluminum. Are the dull ones the wones you rubbed out or polished? I'm not surprised that polishing/rubbing any of the fragile "chrome" paints or inks dulls the look. Just like with the factory (metalized) "chrome" parts, the "chromey" layer of the metallic particles on the surface is very thin. If you started rubbing out factory chromed pieces those would aslo get dull (or even show the underlying plastic).

Well, is the cost more than just time waiting for the paint to soften? You could do other things in the meantime. Or are there other real costs involved?

Thanks. I have the Aoshima kit, and the add-on scanning LEDs module. One of these days I'll get to it.

Well Luke, this is a discussion forum. Not sure why discussing things (still related to the topic) is so bad, semantics or not. What might be common knowledge to you might not be for others. I'm sorry that you're sorry. If you are still anxiously waiting for the OP to post examples, maybe PM him and ask him to hurry up.

Looks good! Which kit of the K.I.T.T. is it?

Compare what we use to a glass mirror. It is a smooth (glossy) pane of glass with thin layer of silver applied to it. If you instead applied that same silver coating to a piece of textured glass, it would still be silver, but instead of mirror-like reactivity, the light would be scattered and reflected image would be jumbled. Same happens with the "chrome" liquids we use. Then require a smooth (which by definition means "glossy") surface to make the chrome paint give that smooth surface reflectivity. If applied over flat or satin primer, the rough surface will scatter light and chrome will look more like silver paint.

Yeah, as long as it is glossy, base coat color is irrelevant. But the color of a base coat is not critical even with Alclad II. Some modelers do not use black.

This behavior could be leftover from the early COVID pandemic time where contact between humans was discouraged. Signature requires a close contact. Still, not cool to not enforce the signature required rule on valuable items. I wonder if you were not home, would the drivers have left those packages at your door, or took it back with them?

For any chrome-like coating to look like a shiny mirror-like surface the painted surface has to be smooth (glossy). If the surface is not glossy, the chrome effect will be diminished.

Ah yes, those were the days. Might as well add my own '76 Camaro for the day. Looking at it now, I think I overdone it a bit, but I had lots of fun in it. 14" on the front, 15" rear.

Kyle, this is a subject that comes up every once in a while. Please read through the thread below as it pretty much covers all the answers.

And this info came from a very reliable source, and it has been verified.

I doubt anybody even understood what a "simulation" is back in the middle ages. As for Flat Earthers, that just goes to show us hoe messed up Homo Sapiens species is.

So it is the "new improved chrome", not "bright chrome" (the stiff foil). Why not give it a quick test to see how pliable it is? Maybe try to apply it to some leftover plastic part? Or even to some bare plastic model car body. You can always remove it after the test.

You have to watch this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xi9BRgjvOlk I did not embed it because it is PG-14. All the Foamy Squirrel videos are a hoot.

The question is "why?" Why would someone "out there" create such an elaborate simulation? What would be the purpose? Is Earth really spherical or flat? Is universe really infinite? The problem with advancing knowledge and science is that humans now come up with such strange thoughts. Wouldn't' it be better to live in dark ages where our minds wouldn't ponder such unusual theories?

Car logos are often not done it standard typefaces (fronts). They are usually created by the in-house designers.

I always use acetone or lacquer thinner (with and without acetone). Always do it right after painting session. Funny,m I just posted the same info for the same question in another thread, just few days ago. Weird! Don't people look for answer anymore before posting questions? Also, all the seals which come in contact with paint (in my old trusty Badger 200) are made of Teflon (not rubber). I would imagine the same would be true in more expensive airbrushes. The only rubber seal there is in the air valve. No paint ever gets there.

Yellow is not the color often seen on these cars, but I like it! Nice model and photography. I'm also curious if you had the mismatched width between the cowl and the bonnet? If yes, how did you take care of it? Bill, if you mean the windscreen problem, I hope that you post your solution on the forum.

Hmmm. That doesn't give me "warm and fuzzies". BMF "Ultra" foil was always crappy - too stiff to work with. Oh well, I have decent stash of the "good stuff". At the frequency I currently build new model's I should be all set for life.

You sure have some interesting designs Scott. One thing about that rim is that you gave it cross section similar to what the 1:1 rims look like. For model cars the standard kit's rim OD is either flat (with or without small lips), or it has a center ridge if the kit tire has a groove on the inside. As I see it, flat surface would be more universal. I suppose one could install a model tire on this rim, but it would be more secure if the rim's OD was flat. As for the ID diameter of tires, here are some dimensions of American SATCO rubber tires (many of which were used in Japanese made kits).

So you want to add the moisture trap immediately next to the vacuum pot?

I bought (when new) and built that black '80 Trans Am. I was in my early 20s at that time. I remember installing light bulbs in the headlight buckets. It looked really good! I recall that the plastic body was so shiny that I didn't even paint it. Unfortunately I did not take it with me when I moved in 1992. It ended up in trash. I wish I still had it. As for large scale, Pocher was making 1:8 scale multimedia kits even before Revell. I built the 1935 Mercedes 500K roadster (which I still have). There were also other 1:8 scale kits made by other model companies back in the '70s. Not many, but they are out there.

I have also experienced that. Good thing is that the forum now shows which used was confused by your intelligible posts, so you can ask them why they're confused (either in the open or via a PM).