peteski

MEK is much more dangerous to human health than alcohols or acetone. It is also banned in some states.

Yes, those dental files/reamers are very handy for modeling. I'm a "frequent flier" at my endodontist's office and she lets me have several of those files during each visit.

Any paint that is designed for fabrics is likely to remain flexible. It will not dry hard. Not something I would use on a model car.

Well Mike, that is just not something I would do to the nozzle. Besides, I never had paint clogging the tip enough that it would require reaming. I will repeat what I said few more times: I flush the airbrush immediately after every paint session. No paint remains in the passages. It is all clean. However I only shoot "stinky" paints through my airbrush. But even with water-based acrylics, I would think that if you flush the airbrush right after a painting session, you should be able to prevent any paint clots.

Exactly! . . . just one more thing . . .

Thanks guys. This one did not look familiar to me. I don't recall seeing one at the car shows I attended. It still has a "European flavor" to me.

That photo is from Micro-Mark's website. They probably still sell that tool. I bought it years ago. Totally useless for what I need. The rubber bulb (actually it feels like vinyl) it way too stiff. You have to squeeze it fairly hard (thus the precision control is gone). You also have no feel as to when the vacuum will be released for the part to be freed up. It might work better if I replaced the bulb with a thin flexible silicone hose, and put the end of the house in my mouth so I could generate and control the vacuum with my mouth. I now prefer the tools that have sticky end (like shown here), but I make my own using a toothpick and some adhesive from "adhesive only" roll I found in a surplus store. This stuff is sort of like the "snot" adhesive found on junk mail envelopes.

Doug, just going by the photos (since I can't see the model in-person), this looked like the best representation of hail strikes. But I think you'll be just as happy modeling vehicles that were spared from a hail storm, and are pristine, smooth and shiny.

Nothing beats hands-on experience. Grab the airbrush and spray away (at some unimportant objects like discarded model car body, plastic soda bottle, or plastic spoons). Then, when you feel more comfortable, start spraying the parts of a kit you will actually build.

Sand and polish?! Another strike! I don't sand or polish out my paint jobs -- way too much work.Drudgery! I rather spend my hobby time on other things. As I see it, my paint jobs are good enough without all that sanding, polishing, and rubbing. I guess we use different painting techniques. If I had to all that sanding and polishing, the hobby would become a chore (not a pleasant fun activity).

I would NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER insert any hard objects into the very delicate brass tip!!!! Microbrush - yes. Reamer - NOOOOOOOO!! Besides, since I flush the airbrush with lacquer thinner after every paint job (right after painting, not few hours or days later), the tip of my airbrush (Badger model 200) doesn't clog. Plus, the needle itself (when closed) fits tightly into the nozzle and shouldn't allow paint to accumulate. I am still cringing about what you mentioned!

You coat (seal) the ink jet printed decal so the inks won't run when immersed in water (not to thicken up the decal film).

I was watching an old episode of the Andy Griffith Show and Goober (the local mechanic) has has taken apart a car he was working on and assembled it inside the police station. That is a strange looking car. It looks sort of European. Does anybody know what brand/model car that is?

No, and either way I don't want my model to look like it has been dipped in honey. That is about the thickness of clear coat which would be needed to hide the thicker decal film. When I do use clear, I strive for thin clear coat. I know, it is a trade-off.

Sure, but the Tamiya decal's thick film still shows up on the model surface, and it is difficult to hide with gloss coats. I have noticed that Tamiya has used Cartograf decals in some of their automotive and aircraft releases.

Good news. Looks like Randy worked through the Easter Sunday to make his customers happy!

I have bleached yellowed clear film on old Revell Can-Do wrecker decal set by placing them in a plastic bag and hanging them in a window to get exposed to sunlight. That was years ago. I don't remember how long it took, but I think it was couple of weeks (in the summer, northeast USA). The yellow didn't totally clear up, but it enough to make the decal usable. Of course I can't guarantee that it will work for you.

Kevin, tha type of question you are askign comes up here fairly frequently. There is also a sticky thread in this forum about airbrushes. You might want to brush up on that lengthy thread. Here is a thread which goes into types of paints to use. Many of us use "stinky" (not water-based) paints. Especially if you are looking for some specific automotive body color.

30 minutes in solvent in an ultrasonic cleaner?!?!? Holy crapolla! How long did the airbrush sit uncleaned? 10 years?!? I don't get it. I said it earlier, like Mike, I give my airbrush a good flushing (lacquer thinner) after ever paint job. I have not timed myself, but it has to be less than 7 minutes. Probably more like 3. That gets the airbrush really clean. But I on;t use "stinky" paints. I have no experience with water-based paints, but I have heard that they can clog up airbrushes.

Why not just sit back and enjoy the fact that it appears that the "good" chrome BMF will be available again soon? From the info (emails from BMF) posted here it seems that BMF does not "make" the foil in-house. They have an outside supplier that makes the stuff. BMF might receive it in a roll which they then cut and package, or maybe the supplier does all that. Who knows. But we should be overjoyed that we will have the stuff back.

Ah, you man a soldering gun (not a pencil type iron). I have not used one of those for over 40 years. Problem with melting the dimples (using any sort of a hot tip) is that it will leave raised edges. Yes, they can be sanded, but then the dimples sill still have steep edge. Hail damage dimples have gently curving edges. I think what Doug did looks pretty convincing (but the dimples would need to be all closer to the same size (not large in one area, and small in other places). Doug was probably just experimenting, but if made more uniform size, they would looks realistic to me.

As opposed to what? Plain 3M makings tape? The original green Frog masking tape's claim to fame is that the edges (just the edges) are coated with some sort of water absorbing substance, which when in contact with water-based acrylic latex paints (used to paint house walls) absorbs the water, swells and seals the edge tight. That's all. it is not any better than regular tape when used with non-water-based paints. I bought a roll (probably about 20 or 30 years ago) when it just came to the market, and had an intense TV ad campaign. Back then they didn't explain in detail what made it so special (that info came later). I used it once or twice and put it back in its container (where it still sits today). I have not pursued it any further, but I understand that the Frog tape now comes with more varieties, but if they all still use the water-absorbing seal, it is no better for "stinky" automotive or hobby paints we use for our models. Also, since the "special stuff" is only at the edge, if you trim the edge off (like many of us do to get a clean straight edge) then it is no better than ordinary tape. It really pays to do the research about the supplies we use for our hobbies. Educated modeler is a good modeler.

Be careful using paper towels (or other porous or absorbent materials). The paint solvents from the paint you are spraying can permeate the paper towel and possibly affect the dry paint in the masked areas.

No, those need stronger paint solvents (like lacquer thinner). Chromium is resistant to most chemicals. Ammonia will attach the brass parts. Windex has a rather low percentage of ammonia. Ammonia can be used for cleaning up water-based acrylic enamels. As for Super Clean, I would not get that stuff anywhere near delicate airbrush parts (or even in the ultrasonic tub). Super Clean contains lye and other caustic chemicals. I would not use it on metal parts. If it splashes out, it can also attack your clothing and skin. Read the warnings on the Super Clean container. As for airbrush cleaning, IMO the best way to do that (and how I do it) is to disassemble the airbrush then use lacquer thinner and pipe cleaners to get all the passages clean. I flush the airbrush really well (with lacquer thinner) after each spraying session, so it basically stays very clean. I do the complete disassembly/cleaning only about once a year.

I guess that is the price to pay for quality decals. Their thinness makes them fragile. While I don't know how you apply them, if you are used to thicker decals your technique might need to be modified for these decals. Use plenty of water (with some setting solution added) under the decal. That will make it easier to re-position. You can add even more water after you laid the decal on the model. Once in its final resting place, use an edge of a paper towel to soak up the extra water around the decal. Then if needed, use decal setting solutions. Don't touch the decal once it is at its final position.