peteski

I see (or don't see). We do have different standards I guess. I would rather have better tread on those tires, but that is not an option.

Aftermarket printed gauges? I thought the printed gauges decals included with the kit are really good (see the photo I posted).

Huh?

If that was done by a teenager (kid), then they are a genus, and have access to some great manufacturing tools! While the video was interesting, it was anticlimactic. With a title like "Crushable Body" I fully expected that to happen at the end. But what we had was unfinished model. I'm glad I kept forwarding the video - it was just too drawn out for me (and I'm not an ADD person). If this was in fact done by some teen, they are probably one in a million (of other video-game-playing kids).

That's ok. It still drives in the point in that just watching a video, reading a book, or listening to someone's advice will not automatically make someone an expert. Lots of practice while applying the learned knowledge is still required to get good at doing something.

So you don't like the answers given by many knowledgeable modelers here? So you emailed Testors? Well, you will be very disappointed. The people assisting you will have no knowledge of plastic models or how to paint them. They are just bunch of "off-the-street" customer service "drones" who will likely provide you some canned reply. You actually get much better advise and help here (if you only bother to listen and not dismiss it). You sure like to use the "rocket science" phrase. At first, it was "decals aren't rocket science", now you say that "painting is not rocket science"? Really? If you think it is so easy, maybe you should try it. Oh wait, you have tried, and discovered that it is *NOT* that easy (especially if you keep dismissing advice you are given, or blame the tools or products for your failures.). Too funny! You know what? You're right! And guess what? The answer to your questions is practice, practice, practice. Some truck parts and couple of bodies is just a beginning. If you really want to get good, you will have to "ruin" lots more models. You know David, that jab wasn't very nice! Bite the hand that feeds you? I'm done!

Glad to hear that Rico! It will be a masterpiece!

What I find amusing is that David is jumping right into advanced modeling, and striving for perfection at a first try. Just like learning to play a piano (or even more so with modeling) you need practice, practice, practice. Just like you wouldn't expect to just pick up bunch of sheet music and a nice piano, that at a first try becoming a virtuoso. Same applies to modeling (and tasks like painting a model). It took me quite a bit of time to get to the point where I thought that my models looked pretty good (and even contest-worthy). Even if you ask bunch a questions, I wouldn't expect that just learning the answers will make you a master modeler in a week. As I see it, you need to practice, practice, practice.

I'm glad he is recovering - I wish him a speedy recovery. Since this is to let all the customers know about the Speedway Decal status, the current thread subject line is really vague. Wouldn't something like "Speedway Decals customers - thanks for your patience" be more informative to all the folks waiting for their orders? How many of them will open just a "Thanks" thread?

Yes lacquer thinner cleans solvent-based enamels and lacquers quite well. I have glass pipettes, and if some trace remains inside the pipette after a rinse I take off the rubber bulb, then use Q-tip to get it perfectly clean. I have never used any type of scale to measure paint components. I usually do it eyeballing the proportions, and checking the viscosity. I guess that comes with experience. Besides paint and thinner have different gravities. Even different paint colors have different gravity. For example white pigment is denser/heavier than most other colors. I do use a digital scale when I mix larger quantities of 2-part RTV rubber or urethane resins.

Oops! Reading comprehension doesn't seem to be my strong suit early (for me) in the morning.

A good semi-gloss black is Scalecoat II Loco Black. It is similar to Testors enamels, and to me it has a nice satin look. Some hobby shops carry Scalecoat II paints, or order direct from https://www.minutemanscalemodels.com/category-s/111.htm

Wow, 2 years went by with no updates. But we are a patient bunch.

Generic lacquer thinner will do a great job cleaning the airbrush. Always do that as soon as you are done spraying (when the paint inside is still fresh). That is for the "stinky" solvent based paints. Same goes for water-based paints, but I have no experience with those and with what solvent to use. I have never bought or used any "airbrush cleaner".

In that case I would suggest either changing the subject line of this thread, or starting new thread(s). I would vote for the later, instead of cramming it all here. It will be easier to find that way later. You could also post links in each of your threads cross referencing the others.

According to the forum profile yes that is him.

Stay clear! Years ago, on someone's advice, I tried this stuff. It has texture, so it is only to be used as large filler pieces inside outlines masked with more precise media (like masking tape). But, and big "but", when it is removed a good part of its adhesive stays on the model!!! Huge pain in the butt to clean. Press-N-Seal never again!

I guess at 1:24 scale it is close enough.

Good to have knowledgeable people on the forum - thanks! Ok, there is rough resemblance to the Michelin XWX tread, but the Revell version is devoid of a lot of the smaller details, and the shapes are more like smooth lozenges than the slightly S-shaped angular treads on the 1:1 tire. The edge of the tread is also wrong. But I guess it is close enough.

No problem, but my intention was not to steer you clear of Parafilm-M. It has its uses, but not for all the masking Needs. For example I use it when I paint satin black windshield or back window gaskets molded on the car body. It is perfect for that. I stretch the film, then drape it over the car body, and press it all around the windshield frame using a soft makeup sponge. Parafilm clings nicely to glossy paint, and since it is translucent, you can see when it made tight seal to the glossy paint. Then I use brand new #11 blade to gently score around the gasket molding, and remove the unneeded part of the mask. Then I airbrush mild Testors semigloss or flat black enamel. When the paint flashes over, I then gently peel back the Parafilm. That is just one example of good application for it.

Interesting. Through the years I probably used about a dozen of different brands and types of masking tapes but I have never seen any such warnings inside the tape's core. I guess that all those tapes I used were safe to use with lacquers. I'm curious about what brand/type of tape you have seen such warning on.

Here is mine. The decals however are superb! I guess as-expected from Cartograf. All the colors are solid, and in perfect alignment. Even the very fine gauge markigns are readable However there is a problem. I thought the name of this car was JAGUAR, not JACUAR!! Hopefully someone will be producing aftermarket photoetched scripts with correct spelling. There is a bit of a disappointment for me. If Revell tooled up new tires specifically for this model, why did they choose such a weird tread pattern?! It looks like nothing I've seen on 1:1 tires. Looks like something that might possible be used on truck or SUV tires, not on a sports or passenger car. Weird. The tires also seem to have rather low-profile sidewalls (and again weird pattern). I haven't measured them to see what are their 1:1 measurements.

It is all just numbers. That all. Italian Lira has had such a low value that those poor Italians have been paying thousands of Lira for a loaf of bread, and millions for a car. As I understand, back when US$ was backed by gold, the value of currency actually had some meaning, but now it is just a number.

That is another variable I forgot to mention: Even the same brand of lacquer thinner changes formula over time. I have some really old SCL brand lacquer thinner, and I also bought some more few years ago., They smell different and list different ingredients on the labels. Besides that lacquer thinner, I also use DT870 PPG brand medium temperature reducer. Since it is made for, it works well with all automotive lacquers and enamels (made for 1:1 cars). Works really well, but it is pricey (which often is a problem for the tight-wallet modelers).

But that's no fun!