peteski

That used to really bug me, but the new forum version hides lengthy quotes (you have to click on a down arrow on the quote to fully expand it). So now the replies with dozen of quoted photos no longer bug me. But even before, it wasn't really difficult to delete (or even resize) the quoted photos.

They really do. Not sure why. Maye the developers want users to spend more time looking for all the hidden settings. Kind of like looking for Easter eggs.

"Efficient?!" I Love it! That has to be one of the greatest excuses of all times. And I'm going to go and give you all 3 flavors of "likes" that are available!! Way to go Rob! EDIT: Darn! I can only give one of the three. Not fair!! I gave you a nice trophy - thanks for the laugh.

I don't know the builder, but that Edsel display was really impressive!

Unlike for us old farts, they probably don't teach in school how to read a "dial clock".

You should be able to see what kind of reaction, and how many tagged you with it. The "reactions" are shown on the bottom right of your post that was "reacted to". You should see one or more of the 4 icons, along with a count of how many people tagged your post with that "reaction". If you hover over each (of using a mouse), it should describe which emotion it is.

While we have strayed from the original topic (which was ads on this forum), one of my favorite Geico gecko-less ads was the hump-day one. I also like the Farmer's Insurance ads like:

I still think that 1:1 scale snap-model-kit of the Nissen CUP NOODLE is weirder than a fantasy spaceship "Iwata". Also, spaceship model miniatures in many SciFi films have often been designed using all sorts of mundane contemporary objects.

And in most cases they make those lines (and also rivets) way too prominent. At the scale size they make the gaps between the panel lines, the real aircraft would not very aerodynamic. Those looks more like technical drawing (or an artistic rendering) of the aircraft than the real aircraft.

Same here - I just visit the sections of the forum I'm interested in, then when I'm done reading only the topics I'm interested in, I mark that entire forum section as "read". I also mark the entire sections of the forum I'm not interested in as read. I never even considered just viewing "all unread contents", as I'm only interested in about 30% or less of the new posts since I last visited.

Now that's the type of customization I like! Just come cool LED headlight replacement. The rest of the car looks like it would have looked when it was new (although it seems riding a bit low in the back). Might be just the angle the photo was taken. If it was all souped up under the hood, that wouldn't bother me, as long as the exterior looks stock.

LOL! If a moderator posts a "lets grab some popcorn and watch this thread" animated GIF, we know we have something really, really good here! ?

As I see it, David is not looking for shortcuts (well, maybe not). He seems to be looking for exact instructions he can follow word-for-word to achieve perfection. Man, I wish I had that type of instructions for all sorts of things I deal with in my life. That would be awesome! But that is a pipe dream.

You might be disappointed. But there is plenty of advice here, if you bother to take it. Glosscote and Dullcote are just generic hobby clear lacquers. Unfortunately we live in an imperfect world, and there are no exact detailed instructions encompassing every possible application provided on most modeling products' labels.

This might answer your question:

. . . and that was the reason for this thread in the first place: "What is your method to the madness for clearcoating over decals on body perfectly?". By "your" David meant "members of the forum", but he got the definitive answer right from Testors' mouth. All is well in the world again! We can now move on to David's next question. And as I mentioned earlier, the answer will be "42".

While Methylene Chloride results in crystal clear joints on Plexiglas, in my experience it will craze clear polystyrene (makes it crackled/frosty). It wont fog the parts, but if the joint area is visible, there might be some crazing. I suppose that if it is applied very sparingly, it might look ok. Instructions are correct that epoxy adhesive will not "fog" the clear parts, but using epoxy is a bit of a hassle. Its 2 parts have to be thoroughly mixed, and it takes some time to set, so the parts need to be taped or held together until the glue hardens.

One person's superior skills? You either totally missed what is going on here, or are just being funny. The person who seems to have the last word here in the unskilled member who is rejecting the advice from skilled members. If you are just being funny, that went way over my head.

I cannot. However I don't believe it is that simple. The leaching process is much slower and likely more complex than just running the solvent-soaked rag over the plastic surface. I would compare it to what happens when certain types of vinyl tires softening bare plastic, leaving marks on the surface. You can't simulate that with a "rag test".

I know you are a non-believer, but one would think that silver paint would be opaque enough. Metallic particles should be 100% opaque. They are to light (if you paint a piece of transparent plastic with silver). I would also say that black primer would be opaque enough (for the same reason). So if you were to paint a red plastic model with black primer, then white primer (which was opaque enough not to show any black), then the white primer, or the white top coat over that white primer turned pink, what would you say?

Hey David, why don't you buy bunch of old Testors enamels on amazon? Oh wait . . . never mind. Oh look, a squirrel! I also highly recommend "42".

Wasn't it Kilz primer?

But this is an all-new and magical solution we all should try and rave about!

Thanks! I'll see if I can find it at HD.

Ah, the "better days". What does the corner of Graham and Meeker Avenues looks like today? Hangout for bunch of strangely dressed Millennials with their hand glued to their smart phones?