peteski

I wouldn't be so harsh. Give them few more days, then resend your email (preferable from a different email address if you have one). There could be multiple reasons for lack of response. Did you check your Spam folder? In today hectic workld we expect immediate gratification, and are totally disappointed if it doesn't happen. Sometimes things take time.

How much is the shipping charge? It might be worth to just pay for shipping and get the part. Well, unless the shipping cost is unreasonable high. Some model companies (Revell?) ask for the UPC barcode or some other identifying item taken from the kit's box when requesting spare parts.

Now imagine someone doing that with all the models you acquired and stashed in the last few decades!

No need to go to such extremes. Not sure what chemicals are in the stuff you use, but they might actually damage polystyrene. Gentle sanding of the model's body, then a gentle wash with warm water and a good dish-washing detergent (like Dawn, Joy, etc.) will be more than adequate for body prep. If you really worry you can use some isopropyl alcohol. Some water-based acrylic paint companies sell paint prep solutions, but they are rather pricey and not really needed. Detergent will remove all dirt and oil. I wash the car bodies in my kitchen sink using cheap soft paint brush and Joy. Then rinse it well, and blow-dry using compressed air. I suppose the water could be shaken off the model, then air dry. I don't use a towel because that might deposit some lint on the model.

if the decals are still on the intact sheet another way to fix them is to spray the entire sheet with a wet coat of lacquer thinner. The basically remelts the clear film areas on the decal sheet. I had good luck with that method. The Liquid decal film also works well, but I usually brush on 3 or 4 coats (it dries very thin). This stuff is basically a type of clear lacquer that uses alcohol as solvent, so airbrushing any clear lacquer also giver satisfactory results. But Liquid Decal Film dries very flexible since it is the same stuff decal manufacturers use as the decal's clear film.

If one read through the entire thread, discoloration was mentioned, and also the fact that it can easily be polished back to original color. The original Chrome foil is *NOT* just aluminum foil. It is some sort of metal alloy that has low melting temperature - it can easily be melted with a soldering iron - can't do that with aluminum. That "secret" alloy is the reason the foil is so malleable - it conforms easily to bumps and depressions on the model. Since it is not aluminum, if there are some chemical vapors in the ambient air, the foil could discolor slightly. Or if it is in contact with some material which is emitting some chemical vapors. But that can easily be polished out. Even rubbing it with soft cloth or a paper towel should clean up some light discoloration.

The meanings of those icons is shown when one hovers over each (at least on a non-tablet computers). Trophy means "thanks" (trophy seems sort of an awkward icon), next is "HaHa", then "Confused", and "Sad".

Here in Northeast MA we are in a heat wave. 3rd day of 90+ weather, and dew points in the 70s. Right now it is 96 deg. F! My ACs are going full blast. At least the weekend and next week will cool down to the 70s and 80s and not as muggy.

In Canada you have pretty decent health plans. In USA all dental insurance sucks, especially with the prices dentists charge for procedures (even when the dentist is in the "network"). I would say something more about it, but that would turn political. And before anybody says something, I know that socialized health plans have their own set of problems. Or at least that's what the detractor say. Say no more.

I wouldn't consider it scary - just unpleasant. My dentist is a nice guy with good sense of humor, and other dental professionals that work on my mouth are all nice people, but the procedures are rather unpleasant. The prices for the procedures are scary though! I should get a discount or "frequent flyer miles" at my endodontist - about a third of my teeth have root canals, and I'll have another root canal on the next Thursday. Then of course I'll need a crown. Ka-ching! Fun never ends!

Years ago I built the Gunze Sangyo 1:32 scale version of that car, and to my eyes it seems to have correct proportions. Actually, this was the first time I ever used BMF. I hope you don't mind me posting its photos here.

How complicated it is depends on how accurate (or fastidious) you want to be. If you want accurately scaled hoses, you first need to determine the outside diameter of the1:1 hose (the specs usually only mention inside diameter). Then (as mentioned earlier in this thread) divide that dimension by 24 or 25 to get the scale hose's outside diameter. Next you have to find appropriate size insulated electrical wire. There is another problem: electrical wires usually state the gauge (diameter) of the conductor, not the outside diameter of the insulation. There are many types of wire that have the same gauge wire inside, but the thickness of the insulation can be different. So the best thing is to have the wire in-hand and measure the diameter of the insulation. Next, is the color. I have seen both black, and dark red colored heater hoses, so you have to pick the right color. As you can see, things can get complicated. But if you don't care about absolute accuracy, just get some wire close enough in diameter, and wing-it.

Several hours? As with all small manufacturers, I would give them few days to reply. Not everybody is constantly immersed in checking their computers, tablets, and phones and instantly replying to texts or emails. What were the concerns? Adhesive's longevity? Wrinkled foil? Stiff Ultra Bright Chrome foil?

Well mine would shake 1 oz. bottles but fairly slowly compared to smaller bottles (which where oscillating like crazy). It was really struggling.

Ethanol is already widely available at all gas stations around my area. Sticker on the gas pump informs that the gasoline I'm purchasing contains 10% ethanol! It makes the gasoline less potent, and it might deteriorate gaskets in older car's fuel systems. Why ethanol? It is not a "clean fuel". It takes a lot of energy to produce.

That came out very nice. I like the solid blue paint scheme too. I'm glad you didn't add racing stripes. The unusual shape of this aircraft in itself catches the eye,

They are all "interesting". The last one somehow reminds me a little of the old Polish FSO Syrena (nicknamed "skarpeta" or "sock" in English).

That is one strange looking Porsche! Looks like a child of strange Ferrari Volvo P1800 and some British roadster. Except for the wheels (and maybe windscreen), there doesn't seem to be any Porsche there.

That's true.Sometimes they play the same commercial more than once during the same break! Crazy! This probably happens because computer picks which ones to play, when in the past they were likely arranged by humans. Back in the day, there were fewer commercials per hour, and much wider selection was shown.

Thank you Tom!

In my 35+ years of using Badger 200 airbrush I bent the needle once. I just bought a new one. They are not very expensive. But it is good to know that there is a handy tool to fix/sharpen airbrush needles. Thanks Bill! I don't use Flitz, but a similar product called Top Brite polish.

On top of the photo is the original motor. The motor with the gearhead is much larger and has lots more torque. The output shaft was rather large diameter, so I had to grind it down until I could fit the spherical brass coupler onto it. Now I just need to create a mounting bracket for that motor, and put it all back together. I also have a new wall-wart with a higher amperage rating that the one powering the original motor. You can also see the large bolts I glued in to prevent the shaker from walking on the bench.

That "new" smiley has been around since few updates ago. I don't like or use that set of emoticons because they are too small (on my screen) and just black/white. The ones from the _default set are nicer: larger and have some color. To be honest, I really don't think we need that huge set of emoticons brought in some time ago. Very few of those ever get used on the forum.

From the long list of forum's built-in emojis I always use the ones from the _default set. Those are the ones that were around since before the upgrades. They seem to all still be available and visible. Like these:

While I have never used it for that purpose, I think that Bondic (or any clear UV-cured resin) might also work. I find those have very slight yellow tint in thicker applications, and I don't know if those resins will darken with age (I don't have any cured Bondic that is few years old). Another issue is that the source of UV light included with the resin does not fully set the resin. It remains slightly rubbery, and the surface is sticky (uncured). But leaving the resin exposed to sunlight for several minutes sets it hard, and the surface also hardens to a glossy finish. No more stickiness.