peteski

The original l question was "... what would be good to replicate wiring harness for 1/25 scale models [?]" To me it is pretty obvious that it is about a scale harness that depicts the 1:1 item (not a functional harness which will actually be used to conduct electricity to working lights or other features on a scale model).

But with steel wire core, can they be shaped easily (liken have sharp bends in them or be laid down on a curved surface) and remain in the pre-formed shape? I seem to recall thick guitar strings being rather stiff.

Mark, if you go to your profile, you can see and revisit all of your posts and threads. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/profile/18334-2zwudz/ Here is the thread you started asking about milling machines, and here you aslo got lots of answers recommending Sherline. It would have made more sense to continue posting Sherline questions there, instead of starting new thread. Here you go. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/148581-looking-for-recommendations-on-a-bench-top-milling-machine/?tab=comments#comment-2184436

Why not "real engine"? Well, because electric cars do not burn dead dinosaur juice, and spew carbon dioxide and lots of other nasty gasses. Yeah I know, right now the electricity to charge up those cars comes from a power plant which likely still spews nasty gasses into the atmosphere, but once there is a way to produce 100% pollution-free electricity, electric cars will be widely accepted (save for few die-hard internal combustion "nuts"). What electric cars have (that is lacking in the dinosaur engines) is low-end torque. A high-end electric cars will likely beat any internal-combustion engine cars in 0-60 or 1/4 mile runs. While I never had a chance to experience this myself, as I understand it, the acceleration from dead stop is amazing (and not ear-shattering). And as far as food goes, you don't like onions, I don't like cheese (and they put that spoiled-milk product pretty much in ever dish).

Plaza Japan is a large and reliable Japanese merchant. They have good grasp of English language and I have no doubt they will make things good. Here is an excerpt from Plaza Japan shipping policies: If you receive a damaged or incorrect item, we will exchange with the same item at no extra charge. In such cases, we must receive a report from you via e-mail within 1 week from the delivery date. They probably mean "eBay message" since eBay hides seller's emails and forbids contact outside of eBay..

Yeah, they're ok, but I would take a 1-piece lost-wax brass casting any day over those. But nobody makes an item like that.

How about having it both ways: Searching for and resurrecting the old thread, adding the current questions to that thread, then have others in-the-know adding the appropriate new info as needed? Do we really need 20 different thread about selecting an airbrush, or stripping paint? And I don't think of the online forum as "social media". Just an old fashion online forum. your tongue Tom!

While a totally different material (metal) and a different problem, the end result is defective model. It is called "zinc rot" or "zinc pest". https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zinc_pest

They make sound systems for electric cars (ones that just make noise to warn people walking by that the car is about to move, and also ones which actually simulate internal combustion engine sound). And onions are delicious (especially sauteed golden brown). Love them, and chives too!

Cute! Ok then "suede finish" paint. ? I did some digging on the Interwebs and it was actually Faux Fabric paint that Scale Motorsports used to sell. It appears to be discontinued. Here is a link to black paint https://www.autoworldstore.com/product-p/sms5503.htm , but when these were still available, they came in other colors too.

I'd take this one a little more seriously if people hadn't been repeating it pretty much verbatim since before I was born. I believe bbowser is correct (and all the people saying the same thing for years were also correct). Remember, that you are not "most people: you are an automotive enthusiast. You like cars (either model or 1:1 cars). In the greater scheme of things, you are in minority of the population. Car enthusiasts have always been just a small proportion of the general population for many decades. For majority of car owners, the car is (and has always been) an appliance to get you from one place to another, in relative comfort. This goes for people in 1950s who bought bare-bones cars, people in the '60s who bought Ford Falcons and similar cars, people who bought Pintos, Vegas, and low-end Toyotas in the '70s, K-cars in the '80, Toyota Corollas in the '90s, and so on . . . Great majority of those folks have no great passion for driving. They probably would be just a happy for someone else (or a coomputer) to do the driving. Catch my drift? You are the special one (along with a very small chunk of the general population) who finds great passion in car ownership, driving, and building scale models.

Large portion of participants in this forum are from USA, and I'm sure he meant "American Millenials". Rest of the world (especially Europe) is different. I suspect that many more cars in Europe have manual transmissions than in USA.

Jeff, if yo make a copy of the decal, then you scan the copy to make a new decal, that is a 3rd generation copy (quality will be degraded). To me it would make more sense to scan the original decal into a non-lossy graphic computer file format (like TIF or PNG, or even BMP) and keep the file on your computer for when it is needed. No JPGs. Of course also make a backup of that file.

I still occasionally watch an episode or two on MeTV. They have it on in 3-hour slot on Sunday afternoons.

Cute, but just not my thing.

This is the first time I have ever seen Gilligan's Island diorama. I like it! First season? That was when the professor and Mary Ann were known as "the rest" in the title song.

Trevor, plastic spoons are not a mixture of different types of plastic. They are either made of polystyrene, or usually polypropylene. Polystyrene will be closest to what injection model kits are made from (Either polystyrene or ABS). Polystyrene spoons are very brittle (they will easily snap). Polypropylene cutlery is very flexible and will not snap easily. I have never seen plastic cutlery made from PET. The recycling symbol on the box are also a clue as to what the spoons are made of.

I did not realize that *ANY* car manufacturers were still making 1:24 promotional models. Wow!

Didn't Scale Motorsports sell spray cans of suede paint?

Actually, the slides are steel, but yes, many other metal pieces are aluminum. Shipping weight of the model 4000 lathe is 24lb. This info came from Sherline website (I don't remember how much shipping my lathe cost years ago). Sherline website has a shipping cost calculator (when you go to check-out). Sherline items are also available through dealers - they might have different shipping costs.

I have both the Sherline model 4000 lathe, and model 5000 milling machine. Here is my workbench with a drill press and the lathe. The milling machine is stored on a shelf. I simply move whichever tool I use to my workbench. If I had a larger shop I would have them both set up and ready to use. One of the really nice things about Sherline is that the tools are modular. I originally just both a lathe. Then when I saved up more money, I just bought a vertical mill column attachment which allows the lathe to be used as a small mill. Then I upgraded the original AC motor to the new high-torque DC motor. Later, I had enough money to afford a separate milling machine. But instead if buying a complete milling machine, I just bought the mill base (the XY table) and sent my vertical mill column to be adapted to the XY table. I also bought a head-stock with the motor and now I had a complete mill for less money than if I bought complete unit. Next upgrade was to add DROs to both lathe and mill. Again I only bought one DRO head unit ,and 2 extra hand-wheel encoders, so either tool can be used with the DRO (just not at the same time, which is not a problem). Sherline continues to come up with more attachments and upgrades all the time, so you are never tied to the old machine.

Photoetched wipers are acceptable in 1:43 scale, but in larger scales they IMO are just too thin. They should be more 3-dimensional. But unfortunately there are only 2 options available: kit's chunky plastic wipers, and the paper-thin (but otherwise in-scale) wipers. I wish someone would produce correctly dimensioned metal wipers. Lost-wax brass castings technique could be used to produce them. I have made some better looking wipers using discarded LED leads (which have square cross-section. They look good, but are a pain to make.

You know Mark, posting the same question in multiple sections of the forum will not do you any favors. And it is milling, not milking.

https://www.sherline.com/ Great product, great support. Large range of accessories. U.S. based. But pricey compared to the Chinese tools. I owned Sherline lathe/mill for over 30 years.

There are different types of 3D printers. Sounds like you are talking about the ones which use hot filament. But then there are printers which use liquid UV-light-curable resin. No heat.