peteski

Looks great!

Smells a bit like isopropyl alcohol, but don't quote me on that. Even then, I would not use anything less than 91% (preferably 99%). I have not thinned this stuff yet - maybe someone else here has some actual experience with this.

is it possible that the liquid has thickened up (some solvent evaporated)? Molotow liquid needs to be fairly thin for the little "chrome platelets" to float on the surface of the liquid and then smoothly align and settle down as the solvent evaporates.

Somehow I have a feeling that this one is not as easy at it appears at a first glance.

Images uploaded at the bottom (under the text edit window) will be placed at (after) the cursor location in your text area. Just place the text cursor where you want the picture to be placed and click on one of the multiple pictures to insert it there. If you put the picture in the wrong spot, click on it to select it and hit delete key. As far as I remember, this behavior hasn't changed for a long time (if ever). I view the forum on a PC (I have no idea if smart phone version behaves differently).

If you check out Mark Jones' LHD Gulf build thread, he does excellent job simulating fiberglass. As others have mentioned, using fabric softener dryer sheet (used I'm sure). But I'm not sure if that large-scale trick will look realistic in smaller scale. Here are couple of related posts (but I recommend looking over the entire thread).

While I find this discussion about the license plate amusing and informative, I also have to chuckle. The superbly-built model featured in this thread doesn't even have that plate.

Couple of things to consider when buying light bulbs nowadays: Color temperature and Color Rendering Index (CRI). These specs are often mentioned on the product boxes. If you liked the color temperature of your CFL, then you can select the LED bulb which has a similar color temperature. CFL's color temperatures were usually 2600-2800K (warm-white light, similar to the incandescent bulbs), or 4000-5000K (cool white, or daylight). Halogen lamps usually have color temperature of 3000K The CRI determines how accurately the light from that bulb will render colors of the objects it illuminates. CFLs in general had a poor CRI. Many LED bulbs also have poor CRI (70-85). I would recommend to try finding a bulb which has 91 or greater CRI.

How about airbrushing a coat of Tamiya . . . smoke (transparent paint)? If it is too dark, mix it with Tamiya clear. If darker color is needed, airbrush multiple coats of full-strength smoke.

Vince, some hobbyists started calling all water-solvent-based paints acrylics, That is not an accurate name for them.. Acrylic can be used in all sorts of both, water-based, and organic-solvent based paints. From my observations I would say that Tamiya paint (in the round glass jars) is acrylic-based lacquer, which use alcohols as solvent.

Yes, today's smart phones take really good quality photos and the dept of field is also quite good. As far as the Venetian blind effect goes, many household-current powered LED bulbs actually strobe 60 or 120 times a second. It is either the frequency of the AC power of 60Hz or double that, at 120Hz. Too fast for human eye to see the flicker. If the optical sensor in the camera scans the image it is photographing in a certain way, some parts of the image could be scanned when the LED bulb is in the off state, producing the effect you are describing

Not registered (now) because eBay kicked them out. But the user info still remains for some time (so will their bids).

"Future" (or whatever it's ever-changing name is now) is not a wax. It is a "floor finish (acrylic clear coating). Some people swear by it, others hate it. I have used successfully to improve clarity of transparent model parts. Never tired to use as a clear coat over paint. A great reference for this stuff is http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html

Greg, Vacuum metalizinig process does not require any clear lacquer to be applied to the plastic parts before or after metalizing. But if the plastic's surface is not glass-smooth, the metalization will basically show the surface finish. If the plastic has a satin surface, the metalized part will show satin finish too. I have several Tamiya kits where the clear gloss base coat was applied only to one one side of the parts trees. So the plating looks like chrome on that side, and satin aluminum finish on the other side. Then there is the glossy top coat lacquer. Again, not needed, but if applied, it protects the metaillic layer (which is ony few atoms thick) from chemical or mechanical abrasion. Again, there are some models out there where the metalized parts do not have clear coat. If you handle those too much (especially with sweaty hands), the metallic coating will be dulled. Vacuum metalizing is not a dirty process. Unlike electroplating (which uses all sorts nasty liquid chemicals), it only needs a vacuum chamber and a heater inside it to vaporize a sliver of aluminum. At least that is how I understand it. The clear lacquer fumes are probably the only thing you have to worry about.

There is nothing to fool with. You install it like any other Windows program. You start it, set up a virtual machine. Then you start it (it shows up as a window on your desktop) then you install OS on it. That's pretty much it. Windows 10 still runs on the computer, then your VM shows up as a window on the Windows 10 desktop. But yes, if your IT guy is not on board with it, then this is doomed.

This question pops up on the forum quite often. Last time it was just about a month ago. Lots of good info already provided in that last round of questions.

What is the reason for not using Virtual Box? Yes, VirtualBox VM is basically like out-of-the-box PC with nothing installed on its virtual hard drive. To install the OS you need either physical media (like a CD/DVD) or an image of a CD (.iso file). I'm sure you could find a copy of XP CD lots of places (like eBay). If you still have your old XP product key, you should be able to use it on the new install. Like Dave, I still run Win98SE on one of my home PCs for my Alps printer, and I use Corel 10 on it. Actually that PC is dual-boot and ti also has a copy of XP installed on it (and Corel 12). And yes, there are free vector drawing graphic programs out there. Most popular seems to be Inkscape.

Are you sure you are taking about ABS and not some other type of plastic? In my experience ABS is very similar to Polystyrene.

I love the high-heels! I would have thought that cutting and shaping such a small piece of stainless steel would have been a pain, but you did it quite well! She also looks cold in that outfit!

Thick? That does sound like Mr. SURFACER stuff.

Maybe so, but what's puzzling me is that Kenneth stated that when he slid the decal off the backing paper, the transparent areas of the decal film were clear, tuning milky when they dried. If it was crappy glue, would it be clear when wet, then dry milky?

That is really weird! Never seen anything like it in my 40 years of modeling. Do you have any of the decal setting solutions (like Walthers Solvaset or any other brands)? If you do, see if you can apply some at the edge of the decal and see if it will wick under the decal film.

Can you take a pair of very sharp tweezers, or a single edge razor blade and see if you can lift the clear film (maybe right over top of Fred's head)? Will the film lift easily, or is it stuck to the paint?

Kenneth, looking at the photo I'm wondering if you recall if the clear film areas were already milky as you were sliding the decal onto the car body from the backing paper? Or were those areas clear transparent, then turned milky white as it was drying? What brand were those decals? I don't think this is silvering because the paint on your model looks fairly glossy (which should prevent silvering. Silvering looks more like what's on the photo of the decal on the hood of Jantrix's model.

This is the first time I have seen Tamiya primer in a bottle. From what you guys are saying, that stuff is similar to Gunze (Creos) Mr. SURFACER (1000, 1500), right? Sort of thin liquid putty which can be used to fill small imperfections.