peteski

Nice job, and a cool model. I'm enjoying following this tread.

I wouldn't say the worst, but is up there in the ugly department.

I do the same on my Alps printer. Place the decal images at the top of the page, print, then trim. No need to change paper size every time, since the printer will not know the paper is short until it it finishes printing and ejects the paper. Then it doesn't care that it ended too soon (at least my printed doesn't care). Many of my decals are small and I also split letter size sheets vertically, so I end up with a 4.5" x 11" blank sheets of paper. I still practice the top-of-sheet printing on it too. But I don't think that inkjet or laser printers can handle that size paper (Alps can).

How did you guys find this thread from 2015? Last time the guy who built this model visited here was February 23, 2018 . He won't see your praises.

Ron mentioned that his car was an ex-police car and it has a police package (not just a pedestrian car). I'm pretty sure that it has a a beefed up suspension, and the engine control module has been modded to allow speeds faster than a stock CV.

Unfortunately this does not translate into automotive subjects. Sure with models of stock cars (or other similar ones), you can produce one model and then reissue with dozen different deal sets. But for mode average passenger cars, you can't do that. You can do only so many variants of 1965 Ford Falcon sedan.

I was going to suggest to maybe make the "chrome" platers thread sticky, but we already have way too many sticky threads in this section.

AFAIK, octane rating and the percentage of ethanol in the gasoline are unrelated.

I guess a test spray before applying it to the model would have also revealed the problem, but then again, why would you do with a can that is clearly labeled as to what is inside? I venture a guess that the can is simply not labeled properly. I wonder if it was just a on-off mistake, or a larger batch of mislabeled cans is out there in hobby shops ready to ruin bunch of models?

This is an unusual thread. Here are few of mine. These are N scale (1:160) bumper cars I made for a carnival scene on a train layout. I made a master from clear acrylic, made RTV mold and case several cars using urethane resin. The electric pole is painted brass wire. I also etched by own steering wheels and soldered them to another brass rod steering column. The figure is just an N scale person (not scratch built). I have a thread about these, but Photobucket puked on me. I also made N scale golf carts. Again I made a master from acrylic, made RTV mold, and cast them using urethane resin. The golf bag is made from a piece of black wire insulation and slices of heat-shrink tubing. Golf clubs are pieces of thin stainless steel wire. The strap in the back is a thin slice of black (antistatic) vinyl bag. Steering wheel is photoetched by me, like I did for the bumper cars. Next, when I built the Monogram Ultimates 1:43 289 Cobra, I ended up scratch building many small items. Most of the items on the bottom (in the yellow box, on the piece of white styrene on the lower right, items on the popsicle stick) are all scratch built. Also the door panels, vent windows, and sun visors. I also designed the gauge faces in Corel Draw and had them printed on a transparent film. Then I just painted the back of the film white (and orange for the pointers) and I had an instant gauge cluster (glued in from the back of the dash).

That looks great! Military modelers use lead foil for things like seat belts. Some online hobby shops catering to military modelers sell small swatches. But I just Googled "lead foil" and it appears that it is available (used for radiation shielding). You can find it on Amazon too. I've seen come 0.006" thick foil - probably good for what you need..

Wow! That brought back some memories! I used to use an identical tool, but branded as "Weller" (yes, the soldering iron folks)! It just has a different brand sticker on it. Weller probably made these for JC Penney. It was identical (including the case, and the Styrofoam tool and bits cradle. I bought mine in the '80s. It is basically like the earlier Dremel tools (motor with with sleeve bearings). Mine was single-speed, but I added my own speed controller using a dimmer switch. I stuffed all the parts inside it, and had the speed control pot shaft mounted just about in the same spot where the factroy speed control knob is. I never found a good size knob for mine, so I just turned the shaft.. I eventually upgraded to a Dremel with ball bearings, but my Weller was still in working order. It still sits somewhere buried deep in my workshop. Thanks for the memories!

Owned a '77 (bought it from mom). It was cream color with brown vinyl roof. Brown interior. It had a front bench seat and of course gear shift on the steering column. No mags - just steel wheels with wheel covers. What a "boat" it was! I would love to get my hands on this kit.

Nice! Very impressive!

I'm glad that you got it to work. Did you read the thread I pointed to? By "bad" words I do not mean swears. Bad words are words that can be interpreted as SQL commands (SQL is a database running this forum). For example the word s e l e c t (without spaces between the letters of course) will trigger the 404 error. Many other similar everyday words will also trigger the problem. One of the posts in that thread has a link to SQL commands, so you can get an idea which words you are using could be the "bad" words.

Mike, I'm not sure what you are asking about. I assume that you have that kit and instructions. I built that Gunze 1:32 kit over 20 years ago, IIRC following the instructions. It does retract as advertised. ONe thing I had to do was to shorten the short front piece of the roof. For some reason it was too long. But it works. Here is a photo of my model, also taken 20 years ago (with the roof up).

Look on eBay. If not, you should be able to find polycarbonate (Lexan) sheets of that thickness. It works as well as PETG. You can also find this stuff on Amazon, but some of the prices there are amazingly high.

Coffee stirrers are thin and narrow. Popsicle/ice-cream sticks and tongue depressors are made from thicker wood and are quite wide. I guess it is whatever you think will look good on a model.

While in a different class (propelled by jet engine exhaust thrust), there was also the Black Beetle. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M-497_Black_Beetle

Nicely done memorial for your relative! Did you design the electronics too? I'm wondering if it is based on an Arduino (or similar microcontroller), or old-school analog circuit?

As it has been stated in "How To Use This Board" section, the problem is likely caused by some "bad" word within your post. If you haven't yet, I recommend reading this entire thread.

The original l question was "... what would be good to replicate wiring harness for 1/25 scale models [?]" To me it is pretty obvious that it is about a scale harness that depicts the 1:1 item (not a functional harness which will actually be used to conduct electricity to working lights or other features on a scale model).

But with steel wire core, can they be shaped easily (liken have sharp bends in them or be laid down on a curved surface) and remain in the pre-formed shape? I seem to recall thick guitar strings being rather stiff.

Mark, if you go to your profile, you can see and revisit all of your posts and threads. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/profile/18334-2zwudz/ Here is the thread you started asking about milling machines, and here you aslo got lots of answers recommending Sherline. It would have made more sense to continue posting Sherline questions there, instead of starting new thread. Here you go. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/148581-looking-for-recommendations-on-a-bench-top-milling-machine/?tab=comments#comment-2184436

Why not "real engine"? Well, because electric cars do not burn dead dinosaur juice, and spew carbon dioxide and lots of other nasty gasses. Yeah I know, right now the electricity to charge up those cars comes from a power plant which likely still spews nasty gasses into the atmosphere, but once there is a way to produce 100% pollution-free electricity, electric cars will be widely accepted (save for few die-hard internal combustion "nuts"). What electric cars have (that is lacking in the dinosaur engines) is low-end torque. A high-end electric cars will likely beat any internal-combustion engine cars in 0-60 or 1/4 mile runs. While I never had a chance to experience this myself, as I understand it, the acceleration from dead stop is amazing (and not ear-shattering). And as far as food goes, you don't like onions, I don't like cheese (and they put that spoiled-milk product pretty much in ever dish).