peteski

Many clear coats yellow with age too. It is especially visible over white. So you could be doomed either way. Looking at the photos I think that the clear was applied over the decals. There seems to be a fillet of clear lacquer at the edge of the decal's clear film.

For soft floppy rubber flaps I would take some electrical tape, remove its adhesive (Naphtha should take it off), and use the leftover black vinyl. It is very thin and flexible, yet it still has some stiffness to it.

That should be interesting custom build. Looking at the 1:1 photos at the top, does anybody know what is installed inside the rear wheel? Weird wheel cover?

Thanks guys! That was a quite a project. Back when I built it, I took some photos (this was before digital cameras, so I took 35mm film photos) and I wrote an article about it. Sent it to FineScale Modeler Magazine and they accepted and purchased the article, but they never published it. As for the clearance poles (flagstaffs), I replaced the kit's plastic parts with stainless steel hypodermic tubing. I then ground out hole on the side of the tubing at the bumper level. Then I threaded plastic fiber optic through the tubing until it came out on the top. That end of the fiber optic is also sharpened like a cone to diffuse the light. On the other side I placed the fiber optic end inside the foglight, so the same light bulb illuminates the foglight and the fiber optic.

Ah, that sort of makes sense. 0.006" is much more realistic. That is probably 0.15mm. And yes, we now have hundreds of emojis available but no hand-palm that i can find (and I need that one often). Do the instructions tell you to anneal the spokes? I would be careful as the copper alloys usually used for photo etched parts have fairly low melting temperature. I hope the spokes survived your annealing process.

Funny or not, I'm sort of caught with my pants down here. I normally go shopping on Thursday nights. Store at that time is almost empty (closes at 9pm) and shelves are always fully stocked and about 3 checkout lines are open. I guess I didn't keep up with the news - When I got there last Thursday at 7pm, I couldn't find a parking spot, all the checkout lines were open and store was bustling with activity!! WTF?! I'm running low on TP (and since I didn't expect Coronapocalipse I didn't stock up earlier). So now it is Tuesday, and I still haven't found a single roll of TP anywhere around the area! I still have 4 left, but if this hoarding spree doesn't ease up soon, I will have to start using dry oak leaves from my yard. Or just my fingers! Ewwww! This is absolutely nuts, and I can't believe I'm now talking about it in a self-driving cars thread! Shame on me! To make matters worse, I have tightness in my chest, sniffles and cough. No fever. Hopefully, just a plain ol' cold.

It is your hobby -- enjoy it your way.

Looks like the kit was released recently. Looks like a nice kit! While this will be of limited appeal to modelers on this forum, Ken started a build thread in the "On the Workbench" section. That thread is also an excellent kit review. I hope Ken doesn't mind me linking to it here.

I'm also following this thread with interest. Since I found it yesterday, I just ordered my kit too - it is in the mail (but I probably won't be able to build it right away). That's ok, it will give me a chance to see you build it and find all the possible problems with the kit. You mentioned 1/16" metal spokes. There is no way the photoetched metal is 1/16" tick! It is likely more like 1/100" (0.010") I just looked and found lots of good color photos of this vehicle on the Internet. Should be helpful in painting it.

Wow! This Corona virus is infecting many threads on this forum. Just like the real thing.

You might be surprised Steve . . . You just might be surprised (if you are still around). But seriously, I see the SHO fetching $10k, but the Caddy will probably fetch $50k. Just playing with you.

I guess there is a vague resemblance.

"Sometimes"?! Most of the time there was no TP! When a load was delivered, people immediately bought it out (word of mouth traveled fast in pre-Internet days too). Of course everybody bought more then they needed to share with their family members, or barter with others for other rare food staples (like sugar or butter). Oh, those were the days . . . Fortunately I was only kid, so my parents were dealing with the daily life's struggles.

I don't see a Tesla in there, but the fender bulges have a flavor of a '70s Corvette.

Especially if it has to coexist, deal with, and share the road with unpredictable humans. Recipe for disaster.

I use their paints on my model trains. Those are excellent paints. I'm pretty sure they are lacquers, and acetone is one of the solvent ingredients (but they are not too "hot" and don't craze plastic). They go on very thin, and dry fast and hard, with a satin finish. But I'm talking about the model RR paints - I have never used their automotive line. Could be the same as mode RR paints, but with glossy finish.

Good luck! Sounds like he uses a cup (I use a jar). The cup is much smaller (that is why I don't use it), and the gas can easily evaporate from the wide open cup.

That was a great episode (but wait -- they all are great)!

Right on the money Trevor. I leave the decanted paint sit for a day or two (with the jar lid not fully tightened, to let the gas escape. When decanting, because pressure is released, the paint will be really cold. If you decant on a hot humid day, the water in the air can condense on the bottle (and possibly into the paint). I let the paint warm up to room temperature, then I never shape it (that will make a mess when you loosen the jar's lid (or don't have it tight to begin with). I only swish it gently to let the gas bubble up from the paint. Even after sitting at room temperature with loose lid for a day, some gas will still be bubbling up when you swish the paint around the bottle. That is why i said to let it sit for a day or two.

Yeah, I heard that those are very taxing to build. It takes special kind of modeler to build them.

Yes, these are very well done. I can only imagine the amount of time and effort to make them look this good. As others, say, they look like injection-molded plastic kits.

Yes, I've been watching them on eBay for few years. The prices are usually insane (even for partially started or incomplete kits. As others said, there are few currently listed on eBay. I built (and fully illuminated) one of these about 25 years ago.

I like it, but no clue as to what it is. Looks somewhat reminiscent of another car though.

This one was easy for me because it has a unique look. Plus I had a Matchbox model of it as a kid (and I liked its looks). Dinky and Corgi also made models of this car. Well, the models were of a 2-wheel-drive Jensen Interceptor, but they look almost identical, so only small amount of additional research was needed to correctly identify it.

For what you are getting in the kit, and for the quality of the parts, that is actually not a bad price.