peteski

Interestign and useful painting technique for simulating expanded metal mesh. I have used this type of masking technique for other purposes, and I know some use lace as masking material for pretty paint jobs. But the title of this thread is confusing (at least to me). Adding "mesh" or "screen" to it would have it made much clearer. "Expanded metal" is a but nebulous.

The door handles look familiar.

Sure, if they had a functioning brain . . .

That is a good news. Even these go on eBay for outrageous prices! The prices for original Can-Do wrecker are even crazier. Too bad that they won't reissue it as the Can-Do wrecker. That scheme was much prettier (and realistic) than the Will-Do (which is a fantasy scheme). I'm sure they still have the original decal artwork, and the decal is the only difference between the Can-Do and Will-Do wrecker. That, and the box of course.

Aren't both brands made by the same company nowadays?

Poor choice of words on my part. Should have stated "substance" or "chemical", not "meds".

Sure Bill, there are different formulas of ABS, but in general, the type used for injection-molded model kits or architectural shapes (like Plastruct) can be bonded with most polystyrene-compatible liquid cement. And even some of the harder to work with ones will be easily bonded using methylene chloride based cements, like the one SfanGoch mentioned earlier ( Sci-Grip 4/Weld-On 3 ).

All those various liquid cements (which bond those plastics by melting and welding them together) will work just fine. I suspect that (since they weld the plastic) the bond strength is pretty much identical (or the difference is negligible).

Reading through old posts is not the point. It is the length of the thread.

Unfortunately he is young and end up with a mild case, and likely survive. Plus, like the article said, he might not contracted the virus from that toilet. Teen brain is wired weird, making them do dumb things. Nowhere near being a Darwin Award candidate (those usually end up dead). I would say better candidates would be the ones who try stupid home-grown remedies, like gargling with bleach, or taking some some untested meds, like chloroquine phosphate and dying.

We can't let that happen here!! Locking a thread that is 391 pages long! Please, no! Where else would we be able to gripe?

Future (or whatever name it now has) is not a wax for shining model's surface - it is actually a clear acrylic coating (it has some body to it). Endust is just a liquid that will not coat the model with a layer of clear acrylic resin. But while not really a subject for this thread, Endust does sound like a good cleaner for older dusty models.

I remove that type of adhesive with naphtha (Ronsonol Lighter Fluid is same stuff), but ti might dull the paint slightly (depending on the paint). I would try it first on inconspicuous area. 91% isopropyl alcohol should also soften the adhesive, but nowhere as well as naphtha. But again, it might affect the paint. But since you are repainting it, aren't you going to strip the paint anyway?

I own bunch of 1:43 scale automobiles. Various brands: Minichamps, NEO, IXO, AUTOart, Maisto, Bang, and several others. MOdels of cars that will unlikely ever be produced as plastic kits. Most are very nicely painted and detailed. And from yours I love that MB 350SL - gorgeous!

Contact cement is an excellent choice. You can also smear some liquid cement over the plastic. That will soften the surface so you can then squish the fabric into it. When it hardens, the fabric will be physically embedded into the plastic.

I seen this question in the truck section. Any solvent glue which bonds (dissolves) Polystyrene, will also bond ABS ( Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene which is simply another styrene flavor). Nothing special about ABS. Of course non-solvent glues like Epoxy or CA will also bond ABS (not not weld like solvent cements do). Actually some newer plastic model kits are molded from ABS nowadays. No magic, no mystery.

Robert has a point. Even if Micro-Set beads up on bare plastic, just leave the drop of Micro-Set in the middle of where the decal will be placed, and drop the decal onto the fluid,. It will then spread under the decal and should allow you to move it around. Or maybe try the saliva trick (which I find a bit gross).

Yes, Sharpie black permanent marker is really a very dark purple. Plus it dries shiny, where most black trim is either semigloss or satin finish.

Exactly! To quote Bill's early post " These are wonderful cars to drive. You almost literally wear them, and it doesn't take much more than thinking about a turn and you're through it. " Like a glove!

What's wrong with Alclad II 110 copper?

I believe that if the decals are printed by Cartograf, that will be mentioned either on the deal sheet itself or on the kit's box. It's been a wile since a bought a new Tamiya kit (I have enough kits for my lifetime, and then some).

Nice! What printer was it printed on?

Ok, those are the old (thick) decals. If they are tearing then it is either your application technique, or maybe the decals have become brittle with age (or both). Sompe people put a bit of saliva on the area where the decal will be applied (to get extra lubrication to be able to re-position the decal. I have not tried that technique, but adding more water to the area should help. EDIT: looks like you are applying them over non-glossy surface. That might be a reason for them not being able to slide easily. More water, and maybe lift the decal using either a brush or sharp-pointed tweezers.

I doubt it. Back when these kits were made, they were designed and produced in the good ol' USA.

Is this a recently release kit? In older kits I found Tamiya decals to be on the thick side, I think but some recent sports car kits have decals printed by Cartograf in Italy (the highly regarded decal maker). Those will be much thinner and more fragile.