peteski

Sorry, but this bugged me. MGA is I think a movie studio. The automobile discussed here is MG A (space between MG and A, just like it is shown on the kit box above). 'MG" stands for "Morris Garage" and "A" is the model designation.

Corel Draw is vector-based, and fonts are scalable vectors. At least all the TruType or OpenType fonts I have been using for 30 years. Pixelation is a bitmap artifact, and it doesn't occur when reducing size, but when enlarging. Alps? Are you planning on making those as waterslide decals? I thought you would just print the signs on paper (either regular or glossy photo paper). Most consumer grade ink jet or laser printers have resolutions much higher than Alps' 600 dpi.

Like I said, a screen capture (and a PM to a moderator) could easily clarify this oddity. As they say "picture, or it didn't happen".

Or a very close contact, with a possible blood spill.

I know Gundam is and can't wait to see it built.

I've been using Corel Draw for hobbies for about 25 years. I;'m sure you'll easily pick it back up. The latest one I use is version 12 (mostly use version 10). The difficult part will be to find typeface (font) which is close to what you are looking for. There are websites that can identify founts, but you need to have a clean sample and they are hit and miss as far as identification goes. You might also not find a font that is identical, and if you are stickler for details, you will have to convert text to curves, and edit each letter individually (or even trace the letters on that photograph, to create the lettering). Corel's great feature is that you can easily size the signs exactly to the size you need. Not messing around with multiple test printing and resizing of your artowrk in MS Paint, MS Word, or PowerPoint.

I don't think wear-durability is the problem. The problem might be compatibility with solvents used in the paint applied over it. The solvent in the paint applied over Future can get absorbed into future, possibly causing it to wrinkle or worse. Basically the same possible problem experienced when using layers of multiple brand paints on a model. I have never tried this combination - just thinking out loud here.

Sesm like yesterday we have discussed this exact subject, but when I looked for the thread, it was about a month ago. Still, this info doesn't go stale.

Maybe the members who see that weirdness could take a screen capture showing the problem and PM it to the admins (Dave Ambrose)?

Same here - my Will-Do model's light bars are identical to the Can-Do model. So again, the only differences are the decals (and of course the box, and I forgot to mention last time: pages of the instructions dealing with the decals. Speaking of Can-Do (since that is the wrecker on which the model design was based on), there is a German page which shows how it was designed. Back then they still used manual drafting (no CAD). On the bottom of that page is a link to a nice library of detail photos of the Can-Do wrecker. Excellent reference material! http://www.truckin24.de/03c1989d69109cc08/peterbiltwreckercandoin125.html

Welcome to the forum Petre! Nice to see your project here. Scratch-building a model takes model building to another level. I grew up in Poland in the 1970s and here is the Dacia I remember seeing in Poland back then. I think Dacias were Romanian built Renaults (built under license), just like Polish Fiats that were built under Fiat's license in Poland (except that the car brand names weren't changed). But that is going back over 40 years.

That is beautiful! Much nicer than any other 3D printed wheels I have seen in the past. How does the back of the wheel look like?

Sorry to go OT again but I thought that the 85 MPH speedometers were introduced in the '70s when the 55 MPH national speed limit was enacted due to the gasoline crisis. Before that speedometers were capable of showing more than 85 MPH (just like the one on Chris' post).

That is the key. Butch asked for opinions and techniques and I simply stated that I would not have used that technique, and also gave my reasons (based on my modeling experience and my level of knowledge). I didn't state that using primer was wrong - just that I wouldn't have done it that way. Butch asked for and received various opinions. That's what the forum is for, right?

Hmmm . . . I'll have to investigate that (but I really didn't want to know this - there goes my girlish figure . . . ).

Thanks Greg! I'm not involved in metal work on a professional level.

All this talk reminded me of my High School days (in the early '80s). I would hang out at friend's house and he always had some Ring-Ding Jr's in his fridge and ice-cold milk. YUMMY! Nowadays I don't eat many of those kid's junky sweets. Occasionally I have some Funny Bones or Oreos. My palette has graduated to more adult treats like LU Pims, Digestive Biscuits. Little Chocolatier, or any of the wide range of Pepperidge Farms cookies. Captiva are one of my favorites. I also indulge in European sweets, especially during the holidays. Bahlsen has some amazing gingerbread cookies. Then of course are Girl Scout cookies too! Thin Mints are the tops. Sorry for going OT.

I agree. Unless the are total a-holes, it is always good to be friendly with your neighbors. After all, you live with them next door. This guy seems like a friendly person, even if he is clueless about trees. Or maybe he doesn't like trees. Still, makes no sense to become enemies just because of that. And even trying to give him lecture about how nice trees are would also be pointless - his mind was already set. Differen't people think in different ways. You don't; have to get really cozy with the guy, but keep it nice. It is always better to have a friendly person next door, rather than a grumpy enemy.

Sorry to hear that Vince - I hope that you get through it quickly and safely. But why leave the forum? Self-quarantine is a perfect excuse to spend more time on the computer, participating on online forums. Any idea how you got infected?

Looks good, but I would be afraid that such a thick coat of primer will crack (maybe even after few years). My choice would have been to build up the area with some styrene sheet.

I wasn't around back then, but I'm wondering if something similar to today's automotive spot glazing putty wasn't around back then (since after they stopped using lead as body gap filler in 1:1 cars)? Or as an alternative to lead?

Interestign and useful painting technique for simulating expanded metal mesh. I have used this type of masking technique for other purposes, and I know some use lace as masking material for pretty paint jobs. But the title of this thread is confusing (at least to me). Adding "mesh" or "screen" to it would have it made much clearer. "Expanded metal" is a but nebulous.

The door handles look familiar.

Sure, if they had a functioning brain . . .

That is a good news. Even these go on eBay for outrageous prices! The prices for original Can-Do wrecker are even crazier. Too bad that they won't reissue it as the Can-Do wrecker. That scheme was much prettier (and realistic) than the Will-Do (which is a fantasy scheme). I'm sure they still have the original decal artwork, and the decal is the only difference between the Can-Do and Will-Do wrecker. That, and the box of course.