peteski

Yes, CA and baking soda is one of the worst ideas some modeler came out with. They were probably too cheap to get a real accelerator. There are lots of other, more stable materials that can be mixed with CA to give it more body (and which will not ooze out after few years in humid climate). Talcum powder, microbaloons, plastic filings or shavings, and other similar materials. And of course use CA accelerator to set the glue. I use BSI brand - I tried several brands and BIS is by far the best. Also when using CA glue as a filler make sure to sand withing several hours. It slowly keeps on getting harder and after a day or two it will be harder than the plastic it is applied to, making sanding more difficult.

Ah, a "click bait" subject line. I use paint too. I assume you are talking about the black border around the inside of the windshield (not the external trim).

Exactly, That is why I stated "flexible abrasive sheets" - not sandpaper. Oh, you might have been thinking about the my reply to Tom Geiger's sandpaper post. There, he was cutting sandpaper (not 3M abrasive film) into small squares. He is the one who went OT with his sandpaper post.

I hope all is well with you Ken. I'm anxiously awaiting next update.

Scott, there are several threads about this in the Q & A section. Here is the latest: BTW, the last couple times I used Chrome Tech I had problems. But that is water under the bridge now.

I don't own that booth, but how about making it simpler than 3-way? Just add an extra simple SPST switch into the fan circuit. So the original switch will still provide power to both, LEDs and fan, but the extra switch in-line with the fan wiring will then allow you to turn the fan off while the original switch is on, still powering the LEDs.

To be honest I don't really know why Americans turn their noses up at Spam, or who started this trend. Spam is very tasty. I always have small stash around the house. Of course, just like with all the other foods nowadays, there are no longer just couple of Spam varieties. It now comes in a wide range of varieties. Even turkey Spam! Of course I'm still partial to the original "plain" Spam. Everything else is just over the top.

Good to see you ok Joe! I haven't seen you posting for a while and was a bit worried, since you live in Brooklyn - the epicenter of the COVID-19 epicenter (NYC)! Happy Easter!

Nice find Tom! Rotary cutter makes chopping it into squares easy and painless, but I'm surprised that the rotary blade doesn't get dull quickly current all that sandpaper. I also hope that you kept some full sheets for those times when you need to sand larger item.

Well, then I'm the first "bitchee" - griping about seeing the same subject frequently repeating on this forum. Not trolling - just starting facts Sir! Nothing to let go.

Oh, I'm well aware of Hawaiian residents' affinity for Spam . Actually many Asians are Spam lovers. Lots of fun facts in https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spam_(food)

Same here - never seen that kit. Looks good so far! The the molded spokes look nice and thin too!

You're right. Its been a while since I thoroughly browsed through David's website. While not this specific kit, it is funny how they were marketing clearly European-looking building kits for American market. But making molds for injection-molded kits is expensive and N scale was still quite young (and not very popular at that time). So re-purposing kits like that seems like it was a good strategy.

Funny thing is that I actually like Spam products, and was really surprised that the shelf was picked clean. Most people I know turn their nose at Spam, and yet during panic people will eat anything. I can't wait for that next batch!

Mine copy still arrives in my mailbox every 2 months. Still as good as ever (and no ads, but you have to pay for that). While not as useful for modeling reference material as it was before Internet, the articles and columns in it are still very interesting and worth the subscription cost.

These 3M flexible abrasive sheets have been around for few years. Maybe not all hardware stores carry them.

Very good then. Still doesn't change the fact that you are incorrect. Carry on . . .

Tom and I are working out the details behind the scenes. I'll be honored to be part of his wonderful build! Nothing owed, except for posting photos of the finished model here.

I explained all 3 Microscale products, what they are, and how they work, and you stand by what you said? What does that mean? You are comparing a clear lacquer to a vinegar-smelling decal setting solution.

Mike, you might want to read up before posting inaccurate info. Microscale makes multiple decal finishing products. This thread was opened with a specific question about Microscale Liquid Decal Film. It is actually an alcohol-based clear coat. Testors Decal Bonder is also a clear coat. Both create a clear film over decal paper. The vinegar-smelling solution is a decal setting solution called Micro-Set. It uses acetic-acid which is also in vinegar. There is also Micro-Sol decal setting solution, stronger then Micro-Sol. This one has an alcohol-like smell. Neither Micro-Set nor Micro-Sol produces any clear film when dry. Those two products are not even remotely similar to Liquid decal Film. The only thing these 3 products have in common is that they are all designed to be used with waterslide decals.

This is such a wonderful scratch-built model that I think it deserves accurate lettering and logos. I offered Tom to do the artwork and print accurate decals for him. I sat down last night and created the artwork.

Thanks Matthew!

Gorgeous!

That's what I use. I actually use more CA and epoxy than liquid or tube styrene cements when I build by kits. You could say that I'm addicted to CA (and accelerator).

Håkan, where did you find this photo? I have been searching for a photo showing rear of the original Can-Do and until now I could not find one. Do you happen to also have a close-up of the original light bar (but better than the one on the kit's side panel)? The reason I was looking for the rear view was to see where the license plate is located. Kit doesn't have a decal for the rear plate and it appears that 1:1 truck didn't have the rear plate either! Which is strange as AFAIK, in USA all vehicles are required to have rear plate (with front plate being optional in some states).