peteski

There are many modelers out there and we all have different standards. What passes for a braided hose for one modeler will not be satisfactory to another modeler. I agree that the material shown in the beginning of this thread looks nothing like braided hose. It looks like hose someone wrapped in aluminum foil. There is no braid pattern on it. That is my opinion. In my experience the Pro-Tech braided scale hoses are the best representation of the real thing. And I'm lucky enough to over the years have accumulated a large range of detailing parts (not to mention a good stash of plastic kits), so when I need some item for the car I'm building I usually have it in my workshop, so no ordering and and then waiting for the item to arrive. And even if I do not have some item, I don't mind waiting few days (nowadays we no longer have to wait 4-6 weeks for mail order delivery). It is not like I'm engaged in a speed-building competition.

Unless most paints types are not fully cured, their surface might be affected by high strength alcohols. As an alternative you might want to try Naphtha (Ronsonol Lighter Fluid or VM&P Naphtha from a hardware store). It works really well for removing the BMF type of adhesive.

There are no instant-epoxies (that is why I love using CA glues). But your well-stocked hardware store should carry 2-minute epoxy. That is the fastest-setting epoxy I have ever encountered.

Thanks Greg! As far as the documentation of this process goes, I suspect that very few model builders venture into resin casting. I have found a book about casting at Micro-Mark, but it doesn't have as detailed process documentation that you provided. Plus, every caster seems to have slightly different technique. Basics are the same, but they do some things differently. I'm also a curious individual who never stops learning about stuff - you just never know when you'll need certain skill or technique. I also love to watch "How's it Made" TV show. As far as mold release on the master, why not? It is like resin casting in reverse. You start with the item (master body) and you pour (and later pull off) the RTV rubber around it.

Greg, I love the way you are documenting and explaining the process. Going back to where you were making the 1st part of the body mold, you said that the RTV will have a death grip on the master. Why couldn't you spray mold release of the master? I assume that the body molds will only produce a limited number of good castings. Do you reuse the original body master (the one which got damaged when demolding) and make another RTV mold, or do you use the 1st generation castings as masters for making additional molds (for a larger production run)?

Which forum? Can you post a link to it? Sounds like April Fool's joke.

Um, I think this needs to be clarified. In USA, Tamiya Spray cans (TS) are lacquers which use mild (usually styrene-safe) organic solvent (they have very strong odor). Then there are Tamiya brushable paints which come in small glass jars. Those are what hobbyists call "acrylics" - they are much thicker than the spray paint and they seem to use isopropyl alcohol as solvent. Those are designed to be brushed out-of-the-bottle, and should be thinned for airbrushing. The glass bottle paints are totally different than the spray can paints.

I would prime it and then once all the flaws are gone, polish the primer. I say that because whenever you join pieces of plastic (especially pieces of different plastic, and then a layer of glue), even if you polish out the joint, there will likely be some sort of flaw at the joint line. Primer will fill that flaw and also will create a uniform surface for plating. If primer brings out the flaws, sand and re-prime until flaws are gone, the polish.

I had the set with a figure-eigth track (and a single-lane bridge at the crossing to avoid a collision). My experience was the same as yours, but it was still fun. Friend of mine got the track which came trucks and an obstacle car and we joined both tracks together. I think his track had either a gauntlet or a 180 degree curve where each lane had a different length. We had a blast.

How about Gunze kit? https://www.scalemates.com/kits/324080-gunze-sangyo-g-198-citroen-2cv-charleston

But "real" plating of plastic parts is very modeler unfriendly. The plated layer of metal can't be easily scraped for good glue joints (much less fully removed). Trumpeter issued a kit or two with that kind of plated parts and everybody hated it. Electroplating also uses all sorts of nasty chemicals (which are dangerous and hard to dispose of). Professional resin casters (like Modelhaus and others) send their resin parts out to be vacuum metalized. It doesn't seem to be a big problem. And it is much friendlier to the modelers (and it looks good too).

Good for you! But this is not about tools - it is about preventing the small parts falling down into the "floor abyss" or being eaten by the "carpet monster". You know, those tiny parts you accidental drop on the floor, never to be found again.

That is why mine is fastened with Velcro!

Yes, plastic can be electroplated, but I'm just saying that the "plated" parts in plastic kits are not plated but vacuum metalized. It is a different process.

My neighbor made me an apron (I provided the fabric) with a strip of Velcro sewn onto the bottom edge. I have the other part of (self-adhesive) Velcro stuck under my workbench. Works like a charm, except when sometimes I decide not to wear it while working and then I almost always drop something on the floor! Still haven't learned to make sure to always wear it! Jewelers/watch-makers have been using this type of apron for many, many years. The beard thing looks usable, but to me it is too tight around the neck to be comfortable for long periods of time. Aprons have much looser fit around the neck.

Now I'm confused. Sure the hobby ones are safe since they are designed to work with those hobby paints. But I thought that we were discussing turkey basters. Those are the ones I've seen where some not made from polyethylene.

Now I understand! Thanks! Learning more tricks and techniques . . .

Very interesting!

Nice! Mustangs are beautiful airplanes.

I pretty much use BSI CA line of products and they all work well.

Typical hobbyist language... When you say acrylic, do you mean water-based paints? (Because there are plenty of organic-solvent-based acrylics). If you mean "water-based acrylics" then some of those paints will curdle when mixed with alcohol, while others will be fine. But regardless, denatured alcohol is a good cleaner/degreaser for parts (metal and plastic) before painting.

And make sure it is polyethylene (the slightly milky, soft, waxy looking plastic). I've seen basters made from crystal clear plastic (either acrylic or polystyrene). Those will be attacked by strong solvents in paints. Unless of course the paint is water-based.

I don't think that is a good idea. Plasti-Dip uses solvents similar to what is used as solvents in model paints. If you apply it over paint it might start attacking/dissolving the paint.

Lets think about this for a bit: Molotow is alcohol-solvent-based. The tip is made from some sort of fiber. If the tip is clogged up with dry paint why not soak it in a solvent. How about the same solvent used in the paint itself (alcohol). SO soak it in either 99% isopropyl alcohol or maybe in denatured alcohol. Or if that fails, lacquer thinner or acetone will do a good job of dissolving the dried up paint. No need to use SuperClean. All the liquids I mentioned will dry with no residue, and you will be able to use the tip again without rinsing the tip in water.

Plating (electroplating) is not what is used on plastic model kit parts (at least on majority of kits). The "plating" we see on kit parts is vacuum metalizing. This process is totally different from plating.