peteski

Looks good!

See http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/130412-plastic-spoons-for-testing-paint/

I'm a builder, but I know that I'll never be able to build all the models I collected accumulated over the years. I'm also hoping to be able to at least try to sell some of my unbuilt kits before I leave my mortal coil (assuming that there is still interest in them at that time). So keeping them in good condition is a plus.

Well, maybe on tube glue. I specifically mentioned "liquid cement for styrene (which melts and welds parts together)". Tube glue is thick and mostly remains on the surface (it might slightly eat into the plastic).

If we are talking about automotive enamels/lacquers you will need something much stronger than isopropyl alcohol. Any automotive paint reducer will likely work, as will a hardware store type lacquer thinner. But like you said, test it first. Are you saying that the Mopar color (paint for full size cars) was shot through the airbrush unthinned? Or was the Mopar paint in a spray can which you decanted into an airbrush? When you buy custom mix automotive paints from 1:1 scale car shops, it usually comes in a metal paint can, and it is very thick. It needs to be thinned quite a bit.

LHS - Local Hobby Shop (as in local "brick and mortar" shop, not some online mail-order shop)

If I feel nostalgic (like that old price tag on old kit's shrink wrap). I flip the box upside down and using a hobby knife I cut the wrapping using the gap between the cover and the bottom of the box to guide the knife. I do this on 3 sides. At that point the box can be opened but the wrap stays intact on the cover. When closing i fold the bottom part of the wrap into the cover anc close up the box. That way it still looks shrink-wrapped but it can be opened.

Yeah, I mentioned Woolworth in my earlier post. There was a very large (multi-story) one on Washington St. in Boston, MA in the '70s. Long gone now. They had a large selection of models and supplies.

No, unless CA glue was used to assemble that kit. That debonder will specifically soften CA glue. If the kit was assembled using liquid cement for styrene (which melts and welds parts together), that debonder will not help.

My town also has these (in black on black). It is a very interesting concept.

I notice this happening often, in many towns. It would make perfect sense to coordinate the utility works on the same street, then repave it once after the work is complete. You figure with everything and everybody connected on the internet, this would be easy to do. But no, I suppose the excuse is that each company's work schedule depends on the crew availability and their budget. It sucks, but it will probably keep on happening. Or, similar situation is that they recently repaved a stretch of highway where the pavement was still in great shape. Seems like such a waste of money where other parts of the same highway, or even many local roads are in very poor condition, full of ruts and potholes. Again, the bureaucracy is likely the reason for this.

That's what I mean. Plastic model kits sold in Japanese hobby shops were never sealed (even with tape). If theft of parts was problematic enough, they would have start sealing them.

You think that''s quick? Wait until the drone deliveries start! But seriously, I do see USPS delivery vehicles out on both weekend days delivering packages. They probably have some special deal with Amazon. But back in the day (decades ago), you could mail something using "special delivery" method and it would be delivered in Sundays too. At least that is how I remember it.

It has amazing looks, but I'm sure this thing would be extremely difficult to get into and probably uncomfortable to drive. But I guess the same thing can be said about women's stiletto heels. It is all about appearances.

Like others, since I'm planning on building my kits I open the boxes as soon as I get the kit home. For the above-mentioned reasons. Wouldn't it be nice is the manufacturers would not seal boxes (like it is still done in Japan)? I know, there are reasons for sealing them. So does this mean that Japanese modelers are more honest, careful, and trustworthy than U.S. modelers?

This would have made a perfect subject for the Auto Quiz (unless it was already used in the past).

NICE! Her top's color is pretty good match to Porsche mint green. Coincidence? Maybe. . .

And that was at "Happy Hobby"? Wow! Talking about misnamed business. . .

Well then, you did a good job matching the blue on the decals to the blue paint. That is tough to do. At least in the photos, it looks great. Only now that that you've mentioned it, I can see the decal outlines, but only very faint. Another question: Corel Draw is pretty powerful and versatile (I have used it since version 3, and currently on version 10 and 12, which have way more features than I'll even need), why did you stray into Paint.net and Inkscape? Just to to try them out and learn how to use them?

Good man!

I did - not sure what my brain was doing at that time. I meant sunset. If those ladies were around 18 years-old in the early '60s, the are in their late 70s today.

I still have access to it. Clear your browser's caches, cookies, etc., spin a rubber chicken over your head, and do whatever else is needed to appease the Internet Gods!

Did you use Corel Draw for the decal artwork? What did you print them on? I wonder why was this thread moved from "Under Glass" section to "Drag Racing Models"? Isn't "Under Glass" section for showcasing completed models? Puzzling . . .

Nice! Have you build any plastic kit since the time you've "gone wood"?

Nyuk, nyuk, nyuk!