peteski

Black Sharpie permanent marker applied over chrome will most likely look purple. Not a big fan of Sharpies. There are some other good suggestions here. I would mask the rubber strip on the bumper, then gently sand the chrome of the front surface, then airbrush some semigloss black hobby paint.

Yes, 1:43 is one of the "standard" scales used by model car manufacturers (both finished diecast models and plastic and metal kits). Here is a good writeup about model scales: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_scale_model_sizes And some more reading: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scale_model and https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Model_car

Ah, you mean pączki - Polish donuts with prune jam filling. Those are good!

As others have said, some plastics cannot be glued together. You might have to resort to a mechanical bond (drill, tap, and screw the parts together).

If you can draw your artwork, it is not that expensive. All you need is at https://ppdltd.com/

What is that?! Earth is supposed to be flat! The Earth's apparent roundness is caused by the distortion of the thick spacecraft windows and camera lanes. Um, but this video is not taken through a spaceship window! And why don't some things in the car look distorted? Something doesn't add up! We never landed on the moon - it is a hoax exposed many times.

I still see the Photobucket nag in Rays post, but I see the screen shots just fine - thanks Chris! Ray, that is a clever idea and well executed (marine-grade plywood?). I assume that the little crank is to adjust the drill speed? Nice!

Sweet!

Hmmm . . . I don't see any of Ray's photos. Instead, I see the Photobucket nag to upgrade the account.

To add to the useless but amusing info, brat in Polish means brother. Also, the actual name for those German sausages is bratwurst - brat is just a shortened word (typically done by Americans).

Wow! Harry's early model - how cool is that? That is a treasure. I'm also impressed that it survived shipping (assuming that it was not picked up in-person) relatively intact.

Shouldn't that state "Ass viewed from Canada"?

Stainless steel hypodermic tubing (as mentioned above) is the answer. The thinnest (top) segment can be made from a stainless steel wire. There used to be a company in Florida called Small Parts Inc. They had a huge selection of that tubing (and wire). That is where I got bunch of it. That company got absorbed by Amazon and the selection and ease of ordering went down the tubes. But if you Google for hypodermic tubing, you might find some sources.

The tires prone to melting plastic are made from vinyl and it is the plasticizer, which makes the vinyl soft that leaches out and softens the plastic it contacts. Satco (and most Japanese kit manufactures like Tamiya, Fujimi, Hasegawa, Aoshima, etc.) make their model tires from "real" rubber. It does not have any plasticizer, so it will not attack plastic. But (just like real rubber tires) those tires will get brittle after years of exposure to ambient air. Still, that is better than what happens with vinyl tires. Then there were theose crappy 2-piece hard-plastic tires. Those didn't look good and were hard to glue, but at least they didn't melt the wheels.

My GF had a female Chihuahua that loved to hump her dog toy (furry elephant about half her size). She would mount it, grab its head with her teeth, than keep humping it. It was really funny.

Am I missing something? He didn't actually indicate how much property tax he is paying - he just showed the evaluation which shows the value of his house. The actual tax depends on the tax rates of his town.

There is only one post where I can see the photos: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/6659-scale-wire-wheels/?tab=comments#comment-854756 All the other photos are just Photobucket or imgur icons indicating failure. No photos.

Sharpies (or similar permanent markers) can sometimes slightly craze the surface of some types of plastic. Some brands are more aggressive than others. Always test them on a piece of clear tree.

Here is a trio of 1:32 Gunze Sangyo models I built years ago. Very nice kits! There are few more in that series - I haven't built those yet.

Isn't that plate supposed to be white with black letters? Here is a cleaned up version for you.

Unfortunately the photos in the above link are gone (thanks Photobucket)!

Yup, that works and is a trick modelers of all sorts have been using for decades.

That will work on an insulated wire with some sort of plastic insulation on it. But if you did that to the enameled jewelry wire, that will likely remove the colored enamel, exposing the bare wire. I suppose that using DUllcote might work for that type of wire.

LOL! For those on-the-road lube jobs! I knew that some older cars (from the '20s and '30s) had manual oilers stored in the engine compartment, but I didn't realize that more modern car would carry a grease gun. I'm glad that I modeled it, even without knowing what it was.

If you are worried about pain adhesion, once the part is polished, wash it in a warm water and dish detergent. That should clean off any polishing compound residue. Or if you are really paranoid, rinse the part in 91% isopropyl alcohol. Or do both. In any case, paint adhesion is usually negatively affected by silicone-based waxes (not polishing compounds)