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peteski

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Everything posted by peteski

  1. Like I mentioned in the other recent thread about what model I would like to see, Maserati Ghibli is one of my top choices. Such good looking car! Of course Volvo P1800 (already mentioned) is another one of my wants. Then I would also like to see Jaguar 420. There is old 1:32 scale kit, but a nice fully detailed 1:24 scale one would be really good. How about DeTomaso Mangusta? Or Iso Grifo And more pedestrian car which will likely never be made as a 1:24 scale kit: VW 1600TL fastback. That was our 1st family car. Also, any of the Rolls-Royces from the '50s or '60s.
  2. While storage space on hosting sites is getting cheaper, you still have to pay for it. In this instance the forum is tied to a publishing company, so there are obviously some funds available to cover the cost of running the forum. Many forums are standalone ventures, often hosted on "free" websites, so the amount of "free" storage space is limited. Photos take a lot more space than just text-based posts. I mentioned "free" because in reality the ads shown while browsing the forum actually generate some revenue to cover the costs on this and other forums.
  3. There is UPS, FedEx, and DHL. None are perfect, and USPS is likely the least expensive.
  4. Was that forum part of https://www.modelmotorcars.com/ ?
  5. Seems that the problem is not with the aerosol propellant, but with the chemical composition of the paint. Tamiya already sells couple of lines of bottled paints.
  6. Priming every part seems like such a waste of time for me, but since it is a hobby, if someone enjoys doing that, the more power to them. To me there is absolutely on reason to do that, plus as I mentioned earlier, every additional coat of the 1:1 scale paints (including that primer) adds to the totally out-of-scale thickness of paint applied to our smaller scale models. The thinner the paint coating is on the model, the the more realistic the model will look. That's my theory, it works for me, and I have not reason to change. But I use old-school solvent-based paints which adhere well to bare plastic. Many modelers today are using water-based acrylic paints which might need a primer coat which will provide better bond with plastic.
  7. Sorry Dave, must have been someone else.
  8. Didn't you in the past defend the USPS that this seemingly random movements are part of their efficient routing logistics? Or am I confusing you with someone else?
  9. I stuff hollow rubber tires with foam backer rod from a hardware store. It comes in various diameters. Less messy than urethane foam, but still stiff enough for the tires to retain their shape. But I use it on regular width tires. I imagine with wide tires you would likely have to use 2 rods inserted side by side.
  10. The silver area does not have raised chrome strips and satin metal in between. It is a flat panel with alternating shiny and satin stripes. But on many models the shiny stripes are actually raised.
  11. Yup, like this 1909 Baker Electric.
  12. We're all going to (English language) hell in a handbasket! I notice all this, even though English is my second language. Latest irk of mine is the word "ideate". Who the hack came up with that one?! Then there is "ask" used instead of "question" or "request".
  13. Very good. BTW, clear styrene is not the optimal material for model windows. PET or PETG (like Vivak) are a better choice.
  14. When I use mild solvent-based paints (Testors, Tamiya), I avoid using primers as much as possible. To me the fewer coats of out-of-scale-thickness paints, the more realistic the model looks. But many modelers use hotter paints, and with those primer is required, or they will attack bare plastic. Water based paints also require primer as most do not adhere well to bare plastic
  15. Thanks for the info Martin. The photos just looked so darn good, I had to ask. Yes wide depth of field will make a model photos more realistic, plus whatever enhancements you use, make it even better. With (D)SLR cameras and wider angle lenses which can stop down to high f-stop (like 22 or higher), you can achieve pretty wide depth of field without resorting to focus stacking. Very nice!
  16. In your initial post you asked for mirror - something that shows undercarriage. This has neither, and it is more like a mini-diorama, but depending on the people running the contest might be allowed just as a display stand for a model. That would be something you would have to ask about before entering the contest.
  17. Yes,they will work well, but the size of the vacuum frame is fairly small. They can be purchased in 110V AC version. They are available from Micro-Mark (for rather steep price), dental supplies vendor, amazon or eBay. I believe that Rio Grande tools (jeweler's supplier) also carries them. You will also likely have to cut your own plastic sheets because material that comes with it is not really useful for windshields.
  18. Home made? You will need some glass (or acrylic) cut and polish the edges, then a piece of mirror. Connect them with a framework similar to what Scale Motorsports uses. You can use Plastruct styrene shapes for that. In the end I'm not sure if that will actually save you any money compared to buying the the Scale Motorsports bases.
  19. Here are 3 different versions: https://scalemotorsport.com/collections/showtime-display-stands
  20. AFAIK, mold release is not used in injection molding polystyrene. It is a myth. Even if it was true, why would the primer not be affected by it, only the color coat over dried primer?
  21. Martin, this sure is a very impressive model, especially seeing the last photo showing the original SnapTite model. Wow! The photography is also amazing. There is something about those photos that makes the model look real. I can't quite grasp it. If you don't mind me asking, what camera did you use, and are the photos enhanced in any way, or some effects were used on them? They just look too good!
  22. Tamiya also makes Clear Green and Clear Smoke, but not many anodized parts are finished in green or smoke (gray).
  23. To me anything that doesn't fit the descriptions of various forum sections would go into either the General Automotive Discussion, or the Off-Topic section. Not really an issue, but I was just surprised.
  24. Some of us (like me) enjoy building, and seeing factory-stock models. Not everything has to be ruined by chopping it into something entirely different. I'm just kidding about the "ruined" part. I fully understand that some people enjoy modifying 1:1 and scale vehicles, and we can all co-exist.
  25. Not sure why you put this in the section specifically for discussions about the MCM magazine.
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