peteski

Here are 3 different versions: https://scalemotorsport.com/collections/showtime-display-stands

AFAIK, mold release is not used in injection molding polystyrene. It is a myth. Even if it was true, why would the primer not be affected by it, only the color coat over dried primer?

Martin, this sure is a very impressive model, especially seeing the last photo showing the original SnapTite model. Wow! The photography is also amazing. There is something about those photos that makes the model look real. I can't quite grasp it. If you don't mind me asking, what camera did you use, and are the photos enhanced in any way, or some effects were used on them? They just look too good!

Tamiya also makes Clear Green and Clear Smoke, but not many anodized parts are finished in green or smoke (gray).

To me anything that doesn't fit the descriptions of various forum sections would go into either the General Automotive Discussion, or the Off-Topic section. Not really an issue, but I was just surprised.

Some of us (like me) enjoy building, and seeing factory-stock models. Not everything has to be ruined by chopping it into something entirely different. I'm just kidding about the "ruined" part. I fully understand that some people enjoy modifying 1:1 and scale vehicles, and we can all co-exist.

Not sure why you put this in the section specifically for discussions about the MCM magazine.

The weathering looks really good, but I don't know if it's me, but I seem to see double - two active threads on the same model?

This is turning to be a very nice build Nick. I like it! One thing that bugs me a little is that with all the extra effort you putting into this model, I'm curious why you left the power steering and alternator simply hanging by the V-belts? Shouldn't have been too difficult to fabricate some simple brackets. I'm probably one of the few people that even noticed it. Other than that, the level of detail is outstanding.

Interesting. This looks like the same kit as the Revell (Germany) London Taxi. I have that kit and will be following this build.

We're all doomed! Humanity will destroy the planet, thus ourselves. At least I will not live long enough to witness that myself. Time to colonize other planets and spread the seeds of destruction beyond our world. Not like we aren't ready polluting the hell out of our planet. Millions and millions of IC cars/trucks constantly spewing pollutants into the atmosphere, the oil refineries creating more pollution, etc., etc.

I suspect it is a different chemical (or even molecular) composition. If you let thin CA glue age, it thickens up (but it is still usable). If there was a solvent involved, the liquid level would go down, but it stays the same, even though the liquid has thickened up. No solvent to evaporate. Or it might be something as simple as the thin CA glue is its natural state, and there are thickeners added to make it more viscous. You also mention no sink marks when using solvents, but that is not a valid comparison. Those totally evaporate after the plastic is melted. I'm talking about a cement which has some body to it (CA glue is type of acrylic resin). I don't believe styrene monomer evaporates when polyester resin hardens - it remains in the solidified resin. Acetone does evaporate from epoxy, so the epoxy remaining in the bond or mold will shrink slightly.

So does that imply that none of those barriers are effective for semi-trucks either? Do passenger electric vehicles really weight more that equivalent size IC cars? After all, they do not use heavy lead-acid batteries but lighter Lithium batteries, and they don't have the large metal engine block or transmissions of IC cars.

"Round" is so old fashion. Who needs round.

These 3D printed kits should be currently available on eBay. Paul Hettic also makes a complete resin kit of the '77 T-Bird (which I was lucky enough to pick up on eBay), but that one can get quite pricey depending on how many motivated people bid on it. Paul also sells a '77 Cougar. Paul also had a lengthy thread on the forum about mastering his kit.

Yes, I have also encountered this problem. In my experience MEK-based cement causes the cracking while Methylene Chloride does not. As for CA's solvent, I don't believe there is any. CA is simply a liquid resin which polymerizes when it hardens. It can emit fumes as it sets, but that is not due to any solvent evaporation it is the resin itself that emits the fumes. If there was solvent., the glue joints would have sink marks.

Eggshell maybe? None of the primers I have seen have dead flat finish. Maybe it's all in the definition. To me dead flat finish is the old Floquil RR colors Engine Black.

So what is your goal? Are you trying to build something out of all those pieces, or just curious?

I have seen this happen too. Not sure if this is caused by certain chemical formulation of that polystyrene sheet, or something else. Thin polystyrene is usually the most prone to this. I never really did any analysis. I do wonder if using BSI Odorless CA glue would prevent this from happening. Just a speculation.

My point was that all the primers I have ever worked with produced a non-glossy finish. Call it what you will.

What exactly does "eggshell"mean? Surface sheen, or texture? Primers by design have flat or satin finish. About 30 years ago I built a 1:8 Scale Pocher Mercedes. I sprayed its bare black plastic body parts with a gloss black Epoxy Appliance paint spray can. It came in a large can (like Krylon paints). I don't recall the brand name or where I bought it. Probably a local hardware store. I sprayed it on rather heavily, and it gave me nice smooth gloss black finish. No primer, no rubbing, buffing, compounding, polishing or waxing. From what I see is most modelers are too timid when spray painting, so they end up with all sorts of rough surfaces which need to be massaged to look presentable. Spray heavy, but not heavy enough for the paint to run. I guess it takes practice although I was fairly new to spray painting when I built that model.

I got mine over a week ago from Hobby Search (1999). This is my first encounter with this kit (since I never got the original BTTF version). Looks like very nice kit. Similar quality to Tamiya. What I find a bit odd is that the body surface has a rough pebbly texture. Inside of the body is perfectly smooth, so I guess they did that on purpose. Maybe to help simulate the brushed stainless steel surface? I think it would have been better if they made the surface look like it was sanded in single direction using sandpaper. The smooth clear headlight lenses are also a bit of a let down. Fortunately, years ago I bought a set of MODELER'S lenses, and those are the right size and one set has very nice striations molded in the surface.

Sounds like phishing scam. I had similar emails asking for favors from friends on other online forums. Someone spoofs their email account. Do not respond. If you are worried, contact him using the forum's PM system. However, there is likely nothing he can do to stop this.

You don't have to seal laser printed decals before dunking them in water (because the toner is not water-soluble like ink jet ink), but some laser printer toners can flake off or be scratch off the decal paper, so it is good to clear coat the decal after it is applied to the model.

With bitmapped images like JPG, PNG, GIF, etc, it is usually the other way around. If you take a small bitmap image and blow it up, the quality is reduced as you can actually start seeing the individual pixels enlarged making the image look rough. I wonder if what you are doing is changing the image resolution (dpi or dots-per-inch). If you have a 300dpi image and resample it to 72dpi, the image will be smaller, but you will also loose details. Then of course the printers physical resolution is the limit of the amount of detail it can print. If you have a 3200dpi image and the printer you are using onlky has a 1200dpi resolution, the printed image will lose detail.