peteski

IIRC, CabDriver provided the decal artwork in a vector graphics format. I believe most decal manufacturers prefer that graphic format. Steve, are you planning on providing your own artwork, or have the decal manufacturer doing the artwork for you. If they have to do the artwork, or you do not provide vector graphic, then the cost will be higher since they have to spend time on creating the print-ready artwork.

Interesting . . . In that case, you could use Rit Color Remover. I would not dunk the entire t-shirt in it, just make a small batch of rit and hot water (per instructions) in some dish pan or similar container container and just dunk the stained areas. This stuff works really well!

Yup, I noticed this recently, and even though I use PayPal for eBay payments, that process did not sit well with me, so I canceled the procedure and will not make any more offers until eBay gets back into reality (which is never). Did they really have such a high number of offers where the buyer did not complete transaction to make them change the process? Or did eBay just felt like making a change for the sake of change (like they have been doing all along to ruin the entire eBay experience)? That is is a rhetorical questions.

Try washing it adding bleach (little more than recommended). It is supposed to be a white shirt anyway. Bleach should not affect the graphics. Hey, you have nothing to lose.

Epoxy.

I have a nice and inexpensive 1:43 diecast Tucker by Yat Ming. IIRC, bought it at Walmart (probably 10 years ago or so).

I have seen the Fundimensions logos on kit boxes and other toys from the late '70s. But I don't recall Fundimensions being used as the sole brand of a kit. Like this MPC BlackMagic funny car kit.

Another superb build and photography by Martin! Wow!

Isn't the resin body based on the plastic Gremlin body? Resin usually shrinks a little bit, but that is rather large difference. I also think that compared to 1:1 car the B-pillar is is slanted backwards too much. But that is the same issue on the AMT plastic body. Not sure if the wheelbase is wrong in your photo or is the chassis too far forward in the body?

Most (or all) of the decal makers mentioned above use printers which print white ink. Not specifically the Alps printers either. There are other printers which print white, but they are expensive, so average hobbyist cannot afford them. But companies dedicated to printing decals can.

Here are some custom decal manufacturers who should be able to work with you to produce the artwork, and print the decals. http://www.circusdecals.com/ https://fsdecals.com/ (this is the one used by a member of Model Cars Magazine forum and he was happy with the results.) https://www.pdc.ca/rr/custom_decals/ (this one was used by a member of a model RR forum I frequent and he was happy with the results) Some comments about Fusion Decals are in http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/114760-custom-decal-printing-who-still-does-it/#comment-2673726 Read the comments after that one, as they mention few other decal manufacturers.

Did you notice the very small shadow-box diorama depicting a young modeler's bedroom? I almost missed it. It had buttons on it you could push to turn on various lights in the room. It was also well done.

I think we're making some good progress here. I always use HTTP access (there is nothing really private or valuable in the info coming from and to the forum website, so I don't feel the need for HTTPS connection). And I never had any of the problems described. So I just tried to access the forum using HTTPS and and I got an error when trying to use the "like" button just like the other members. I reverted to HTTP and everything works fine again. This could be a very important clue to the admins of this site or to the forums software vendor.

Here is a photo (found online) showing a similar car's rear end.

And the food was excellent (as always). That diorama is built by one of the CPMC members, and it is over 25 years old. He occasionally adds another junker to it. It is featured on our club's website. Go to http://classicplastic.org/people.html then click on Joe Baril's name. If you click on each photo, you will see a higher resolution version.

LIke I mentioned in pretty much every (of the several) threads about these problems, the forum has been working, and still works perfectly well for me. Running on MS Windows 7 and Seamonkey browser.

I took lots of photos which will be sent to FineScale Modeler Contest Cars, and to Model Cars Magazine agazine for publishing. Some photos will be posted on the club's website (not ready yet).

Are you absolutely sure Steve? Assuming you are using a Microsoft Windows machine, did you manage to totally disable all automatic OS or application updates? That itself is not a trivial task. If you aren't certain that you have, there are many things happening on your computer without you even being aware. Automatic updates (of the OS and apps) happen all the time. I'm reading this forum on a Windows 7 machine and a Seamonkey. I know for a fact that all updates (except for virus definitions) are totally disabled, and I don't now or ever had the problems being described here. How's that for some food for thoughts?

Dyes and Sharpies will not change black color to a light color (like yellow). If any sort of coating (paint) is to be used, it needs to be very opaque. Paints for made for vinyl are probably the best choice. They adhere well to vinyl and stay flexible. But too much flexing might flake them off rubber. Another possibility would be to make a RTV mold using the original part, then mold them out of light color or yellow material. If those boots are for show only (they don't need to compress like the 1:1 boots, then the castings could even be made from hard resin (like polyurethane). Those could be painted any color, just like any other resin part.

This new kit is also being discussed in

It was a good show. We had 300 models entered in the contest, a nice selection of vendors, and lots of familiar faces were mingling in the crowd. It will take some time to get the website updated with a sampling of this year's models.

There is some more useful info for DIY dippers: https://dipdoctr.com/water-transfer-printing-at-home/

You're right Steve. I didn't go back and re-read this entire thread going back to year 2020. Sorry. https://dipdoctr.com/what-is-hydro-dipping/ I doubt there are any films designed for 1:25 scale car bodies, but maybe some smaller patterns designed for larger surfaces could work for our models.

The hydrodipping we were discussing here uses multiple colors of liquid paint swirled while floating on water surface. That results in random color swirls. Thar rim's patterns are anything but random. Even if water is used in the process, it seems like some sort of film with a printed repeating pattern is applied to the rim's surface. Seems more like a large waterslide decal application rather than what we call hydrodipping.

Tamiya makes multiple lines of paints. The old standby X- series is what most modelers call "water based" acrylic paint. It is low odor (alcohol based) and it can be thinned with water, but isopropyl alcohol works too. I suppose any polar solvent (like lacquer thinner) will also work. Never tried that though. Of course it is always best to use the dedicated thinner made by Tamiya. Tru-Color paints are whole different thing. The are organic-solvent-based (acetone and few other solvents). What I call "stinky" paint. Totally different chemistry than the Tamiya X- paints. I would never think of using either water or alcohol to thin it. Acetone can be used, but it makes the paint dry too quickly. As mentioned, dedicated Tru-Color thinner is the best choice to use. It is always good idea to use dedicated thinners, which are usually a specific blend of different solvents, unless the manufacturer themselves specifies another solvent (like water). Following manufacturer's directions saves a lot of incompatibility headaches.