peteski

There are lots of EV here in the New England region. I'm actually surprised just how many there are. Over a decade ago I used to play "count the Priuses" game on the highway, and there were plenty. Past few years I used to play "count the Teslas". Today there still are quite a few Teslas (which are easy to spot), but just as many as Teslas, there are lots of other fully electric cars from from many different IC car manufacturers, and those EVs look list like any other IC based cars, so they are hard to spot. But if you pay attention, there are plenty of EVs around. At least around here.

Don't get me started about bad drivers and bad parkers!

Nor sure how storing upside down will work for you. Think about it. Since the cans leak the liquid inside, and the leaking occurs at the bottom of the can, if you store them upside down the only thing near the bottom can seal will be the gas propellant (not liquid). It it leaks, it's gas, so it will be invisible. The only way you will know the can slowly leaked the gas over time will be loss of pressure (it won't spray anymore). Since slow leak of gas cannot seal itself over time (like the liquid which hardens as it leaks), the defect will be invisible.

There is no information about the source of the plastic sheets in your post Brian.

No, I didn't. To be honest I got sidetracked on other projects.

As I explained in detail earlier, when I click on the link you posted I get to the main page of the Fireball website, not to a Gmail email links. Yes, there is another place on that page you have to click to get contact info. But whatever, this is obviously pointless, and the actual correct email address was already provided here. I guess I'm just being too pedantic. Sorry.

Brian, I was responding to the initial post where Gary seemed to imply that the brake cleaner has a smell similar to the orange tube Testors cement. At least that is how I interpreted his statement. And yes, Tetrachloroethylene (brake cleaner) will attack (melt) polystyrene, so it cab be used as liquid cement, but to me it doesn't smell like the tube glue.

Mike you posted a URL link. It shows up on the screen as Fireball Modelworks (fireballmodels.info) and when you click on it, the browser goes to https://www.fireballmodels.info/ which is the Fireball website. Nowhere in your link is any embedded gmail.com email address.

Mike, you posted a URL to a website, not an email address.

Bob, think about it logically. Complete items made up of 2 parts, such as the rear end, or engine block can be just glued together without test fitting them first. Why? Because even if they have to be modified to fit into the model, the modifications can be made to the assembled block or rear end. There would be no advantage, as I see it, to being able to modify them in separate halves. The halves halves either fit together or don't. If you think about it, you will see what I mean. But if you don't see it, that's ok too. Like I mentioned, I'm just voicing my take on test fitting model parts.

As I viewed the initial post I also thought the photos were reference photos of the 1:1 cars, rather than model photos. Absolutely amazing! I went back to view the photo again and is still looks to me like 1:1 car, not a tiny 1:24 model. Usually things like headlights or taillight lenses give models away, but in this case, it is all perfect! EDIT: I went back again now knowing for sure that it is a model and now I can see that the windshield "glass" is thicker than 1:1 glass, and that the concrete texture of the island where the pumps are is slightly rough, but I really had to concentrate to look to find things that were "off".

Does brake cleaner spray even contain Toluene?! The stuff I have (CRC brand) contains Tetrachloroethylene. While it has a strong odor, to me it doesn't smell like Testors orange tube glue.

I don't think anybody is stating that he is doing something wrong, or that you should stop watching his videos. I know I'm not saying that, but I also think we are all free to offer some additional suggestions too. I'm simply mentioning that I use a "modified" process of logically determining which parts will be temporarily assembled.

While I'm a big proponent of test fitting and temporarily assembling kits before painting and permanent assembly, I have to agree that for certain specific items (like the ones Greg mentioned) test assembly does not really make sense.

No arguments here. Baking soda and CA always was and still is a bad idea, especially since many filler alternatives exist, are easily obtained, and inexpensive. And for quick hardening there are multiple brands of CA accelerators. Person who thought that idea up should be banned from giving modeling advice forever.

If the hydrolysis used 100% solar, wind, or hydro energy, that would make the production "clean". Electric cars are more efficient, but then the source of electricity is questionable and what I mentioned above applies here too.

Cute!

"Holdon" or "Holden"?

Yes, FDM printers have come a long way. Early ones produced objects which looked like they were made from wraps of heavy thread. While I have not had any personal experience with the current FDM printers I imagine they do not handle deep horizontal overhangs very well. SLA (resin) printers seem to handle that problem better (since they can print support structures for such features in the printed object. Or can supports also be added when using FDM printers?.

Excellent idea, and excellent model!

Interesting technique, but I'm worried that heat shrink tubing material is rather flexible and stretchy compared to plastic or metal tubes. If I was using this technique, after shrinking and forming I would wick some thin CA glue where the tubing meets the hard parts. That should make the joint more permanent. Yes, I have been called anal in the past, but I think that trait makes me a better modeler.

Never heard of airbrush lubricant until now. I owned and used my Badger model 200 for over 30 years and it never needed any lubrication. The needle has a Teflon seal. I would think if the lubricant got into the paint or air path it could contaminate the paint.

They sure are! How silly of them to bring back a century-old technology! It's just a fad.

There are several different types of 3D printers. Filament printers don't quite have fine enough resolution to print smooth car bodies or small details. for fine details and smoother surfaces you would need an SLA printer. I'm not sure what your expectations are. It might be good enough for what you will be doing. And of course the price was unbeatable!

Whenever trying new combination of paints, new painting technique. or just learning to spray-paint or airbrush, I recommend using something disposable like plastic spoons, or for a larger surface empty plastic soft drink bottles. 16fl. oz. bottles are similar size to 1:25 model cars. That way you won't have to keep stripping the body of your model after bad results. Stripping paint is a pain in the rear end!