peteski

Those look like 3 dimensional moldings. Not sure if just a flat decal would look good enough.

Not at all Mike - I actually welcomed revisiting this half-finished old project. Not sure when, but I will eventually get the artwork finished and printed. I have no problem printing extra copies for the interested parties. I guess this thread is good place to post an update when the decals are finished.

I saw the dim orange Sun here in Massachusetts yesterday. It was weird. But the smoke never made it down to the ground level. Today it was back to almost normal. While weird, and even inconvenient when the smoke gets down low, I really feel for all the people in Canada who lost everything! Last year we had bunch of very large forest fires in U.S., it seems that this year Canada is burning up.

The process is also called "chemical milling". Some historical and technical info is on https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chemical_milling also https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Photochemical_machining Some companies which do this have websites with photos showing examples of the process. Here is a very nice example https://www.ppdltd.com/the-process.html There are also home-brew etching kits available (or you can roll your own, once you learn about the process).

If you are that worried, why not use coating made for plastic kits (like The TS line of Tamiya paints)? Or even Testors enamel paints? Those should be safe. But as you said, there seem to be many different grades of polystyrene used by model companies over the years, so I can't guarantee that they will be safe. Well, the old Testors enamels in my experience never affected any plastic surface. As for testing, why not do a test on some surface of the kit which will not be visible? Like the bottom of the interior tub, or top surface of the floor?

Don't worry about it David. Just ignore the message. It is not critical to have all the profile info filled out.

Thanks Mike. Actually you made me dig out my decal tests and look at the artwork. I started it back in 2011!! I do my own printing on the old Alps MicroDry printer, so I can do metallic inks. The artwork design is what takes the longest. There are many hours of time spend in Corel Draw creating that artwork. It is a hobby unto itself.

Retro in someone's eyes doesn't have mean that they have to be automatically discounted, or that one can't use them in a contemporary model. You can even tout the fact that you are using "retro" wheels on it. What's old can be new again. Everything seems to happen in cycles.

Oh, but . . . but . . . but, they are just trying to do the right thing to save those poor baby animals that cannot possibly fend for themselves. How can you possibly be upset at them? Lets blame this on the the Internet, video games, smart phones, and poor educational system in this country. Yes, this country is full of clueless citizens.

Yes, that irks me too, and the only excuses can think of are that phonetically you say "ten dollars" and not "dollars ten", or that in many other countries the denomination symbol is placed before the numerical amount. Maybe we can blame the globalization, and the Internet (we can blame everything on the Internet, right)? The globalization also shows up in $20US, $30AU, or $40HK. At least those make sense.

Up until few years ago standard VGA interface was the most widely used. But in the last few years the HDMI connector became pretty much the standard. If your monitor has the HDMI connector in the back, then it will work fine. if it only has a VGA connector, then there are inexpensive HDMI to VGA adapters available, but those might give you the best quality (and resolution) video. Monitors have come down in price. Just last week my GF bought a new Dell 27" flat screen monitor (with HDMI interface) and it cost around $150.

LOL Mike, I have too many hobbies (and projects)! Started the decal project several years ago, but it competes with other projects (I'm a bit "look, a squirrel" kind of a person), so I can't give you any timeline when I'll have the project completed. Actually most of the artwork is done, but I wanted to add few more items to the sheet (beyond what was on the original). Let me see if I can revisit the project and see what I can do. I dug up some early test prints (before I resized the corner scrolls).

Jeremy, How about considering changing your painting technique? When I airbrush my models, I lay the paint rather heavy (except for the initial coat). That results in nice, even, glossy coverage with no orange peel. I open the nozzle rather wide, and use fairly low air pressure (around 20-25 psi). This is my Monogram Ultimates 1:43 scale 289 Cobra. I used Tamiya Fine White Primer, nail polish for the body color, and Testors Wet Look Clear for clear coat. This model has not been touched by any polishing cloths, rubbing compounds or waxes. Just bare clear. This is Gunze Sangyo 1:32 scale '57 Caddy. No primer. The paint is Testors enamel (I built it around 30 years ago, so I don't remember the specific color name). No clear. Again, it is bare paint. I notice that most modelers are afraid to lay the paint on thick, so that creates sub-par finish. I just go nutz! Is my finish perfect? No! But it is quite good (and all those cars placed in model contests in the top 2).

Speaking of old kits, does anybody know what happened to the One-Arm-Bandit's molds? Any chance it will ever get reissued? The kits I scored years ago had bad decals, so I will make my own. While I was designing the artwork (based on the scan of my damaged sheet) I realized that the scroll-work does not match boxart. The decal's corner scrolls are larger than what the boxart shows. So I modified the artwork to make them more closely match the boxart. I have printed some test samples, but the final product is still ways off.

Unfortunately when a model is displayed on open air, dust will accumulate on it. Yes, you can brush it off using soft brush or compressed air, but after a while some of the dust will stick to the model's surface anyway. Brushing or blowing will not remove it. The only way to clean it off is wet cleaning (and that is not the best thing to do to a model). The only good option is to keep your models in some kind of sealed display case.

Sure, and instead of those old, crappy, dim incandescent, or even halogen lights, now you have super bright (and totally blinding oncoming drivers) LED headlights. I really don't like driving at night anymore. Those lights also have very sharp beam cutoff, so when cars travel uneven road, they look like they flashing their hi-beams at you (from blinding to super-blinding). Why don't they have better defined headlight standards in this country? Back in the day (of sealed beam headlights) we did, but that also went the way of those Dodo birds. it is a free-for-all.

Even those went the way of the Dodo bird. My last paper factory service manual was for me 2006 Scion xB. When wanted one for my 2019 Kia Soul, it only comes as a huge PDF computer file. No way I'm printing that monster on my home printer. Besides, while the manual shows everything, it does not show proper disassembly/assembly sequence (and we all know how tricky that can be). It's half useless.

Hey, that's like my '76 Camaro (well, it *IS* a Camaro). I had to use that feature few times. And yes, I know I'm old.

True, but a human nut will be replaced by a computer AI nut. It'll be interesting.

Things which have (not has) faded on modern cars: Hidden (recessed) windshield wipers (but they seem to be making a comeback on some higher end cars). Ability to drive (ore even ride as a passenger) without seat belts fastened, without constant and unbearably annoying warning sound. Thank you nanny car! Power steering so potent that you could spin the steering wheel with one finger. The biggest faded "thing" for me is the simplicity of operating the car. Now the driver is surrounded by so many distractions and "helpful" features. They do everything but wipe your butt. Way, way, way, too busy and complicated. You supposed to drive (while paying attention), not play video games!! No wonder the car demands fastening seat belts to save you from when all the distractions cause you to crash!

Nice clean build of a vintage car - I like it!

And is more sturdy than plastic rod (because workbench accidents can happen).

Wrong! I'm highly offended by blank memes!

Some political stuff does sneak into the forum. I imagine that some keywords in the following post could trigger some political ads. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/181960-yesanother-usps-rant-why/?do=findComment&comment=2738326

As I suspected . . . oh well. I thing that just showing the country would be vague enough not to cause any security problems. A nifty feature would be to have a flag of the member's country showing on their avatar instead of the meaningless rocketship "rank". Of course that feature likely doesn't exist in the forum software.