peteski

Hey, I like SPAM, and prunes dried plums too. I also don't like beer (but a fine Cognac is welcome) We all have different tastes.

Or if you like paint-solvent-flavored, dry both together at the same time.

Looking at the info in Joe's links "direct to metal" primer makes no sense as the explanation is that the direct-to-metal finishes can be applied directly to bare metal, without a need for a primer. So how can a primer be rated directly-to-metal? Aren't most rattle can automotive primers made to be applied directly to metal? I guess self-etching primer is just another marketing term (as this primer, along with others, can be applied directly to bare metal). Are we thoroughly confused yet?

Yes, there are techniques for that. For example with side view (door) mirrors I drill a hole for the pin in the mirror's stem, then I insert piece of brass rod (the "marking pin") into the hole until it bottoms out, then using nippers I cut it to just protrude about 0.020" (or about 1/32") from the mirror's stem. That pin remains not glued. I sometimes take out that piece of the pin and sharpen the end, but sometimes the cutting process leaves a sharp end already. So when that short pin is in the mirror's stem, I then hold the mirror in its desired mounting place on the door's surface, and I press the sharp pin into the paint. That gives me a mark where to drill. I then remove the "marking pin" from the mirror stem, and permanently glue in a longer pin. It can be then glued into the hole you drill in the door. If the angle of the hole in the door is at a slightly wrong angle, the pin in the mirror's stem can be bent slightly until desired placement is achieved. Once everything is lined up, the mirror with its pin can be glued to the door. If you are worried about messing up the paint while marking and drilling, this process can be done before the bare plastic body is painted. Actually I usually do it this way.

Does anybody have any info about Hermann Kersten from Netherlands? He had a WIP thread about his incredible scratchbuilt Fuso Airport catering truck He has not visited the forum since late 2020. I hope he is still ok and will eventually finish that masterpiece. @Hermann Kersten, are you still around?

Have you visited the Alclad II website? Sounds like you mean "candy colors" (at least that is what transparent tinted clears are called on the other side of the pond). https://alclad2.com/finishes/candy/

Wow! That looks great! The price also seems very reasonable for what you get. Do they have online presence other than FB? I would love to order this transkit but FB is no-go for me. Email address maybe? It really stinks that many small manufacturers chose not to have website. FB is not for everybody, and even a simple website with just contacct info would be really handy. After all, even FB has a website.

Funny, when that kit came out in the '90s it was my club's "club challenge" kit for that year. I painted the body with PPG Chameleon color-shifting paint, and finished the wheels, but haven't touched it since. I need to get inspired again. The wheels are nice!

Others on the forum have build that truck. Maybe they would have the info you're looking for? http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/166201-what-you-do-not-want-to-see-in-your-rear-view-mirror http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/161128-50th-anniversary-duel-truck

If you are talking about the 2-part Bondo then I believe the smell is liquid polyester resin.

I'm absolutely convinced that ABS brakes of the crossing traffic vehicles are nowhere on the mind of the offending driver (who's either running a red light or turning right on red). What is on their mind (assuming that there is actually something on the minds of those buttwipes) is to get to their destination quicker. No time to wait 30 seconds, or stop and look for crossing traffic before turning right on red. Some of those idiots most likely don't know anything about ABS brakes or even that cars are equipped with ABS. You give them *WAY* too much credit. Those are usually selfish mindless dweebs! Speaking of ABS application on dry pavement, if there are undulation (waves) in the pavement, they actually increase the breaking distance. Speaking from experience here. That's something I mentioned in my earlier post and something we agree on. Traffic law enforcement seems to be pretty much non existent.

Um, that is a very interesting way of looking at this. So you are saying that the driver who has the green light, due to the ABS brakes, will be able to avoid hitting the right-on-red turning idiot driver? That is one crazy logic! Drivers should obey traffic rules, or be punished severely enough to teach them to obey the rules. This "it is all about me" and "I need to get to my destination 15 seconds faster" mentality needs to be expunged. We need for the was to be enforced better than they are. Otherwise it becomes free for all.

But it is still breaking the traffic rules. Why not just change all stops to yield signs then? There are reasons stop signs are used instead of yield signs. How do you figure? What does ABS have to do with right turn on red? You must be joking.

Owning the MicroDry Alps printer, printing on laser decal paper I don't have any of those liquid ink problems, but even Alps is not perfect.

Excellent!

Yes, the ink looks like it beaded up on the surface. I would suspect that this is not ink jet specific paper, or maybe that it is not printed using a correct print mode (whatever is supposed to be used for decal printing). I don't believe there are special ink jet inks just for decal paper. The paper is supposed to have ink absorbing coating so the ink soaks into it instead of beading up.

Ok, you do have a point. It would probably be ok, but why take a chance. But then I suspect that some dental suppliers in Scotland sell those machines too. Maybe they sell 240V versions?

I suggested this one because it is a compact all-in-one unit. Nice and easy to use for small items. Anything but complicated. And yes, they are Chinese made (but what isn't nowadays)? They must be decent quality since (most?) dentists will not put up with crappy equipment. I'm pretty sure that you can find them locally on amazon or eBay. If you buy them from those sites, who cares where they are shipped from? I buy items on those sites and yes, they come from China. No big deal. I suspect the one you describing will need a source of vacuum and heat. I have no experience with that one.

If you only need to make small items (like windscreens) then you could get one of the dental machines dentists use to heat-form mouthpieces and tooth aligners. Those are fully self contained machines with the heating element and vacuum motor in a fairly compact unit. Micro-Mark used to sell one of those units (not sure if they still do), and they should also be available on amazon or eBay. Since they are made for dental trade, they should be decent quality and reliable. You will likely have to cut your own plastic sheets to fit the unit's frame. Look for ones with rectangular (not round) frames. Do an internet search for "dental vacuum forming machine". You may find one for less than $100US

How about some photos maybe? Personally I prefer viewing posts with photos.

I like scale models (miniatures) - always had since early childhood. I also enjoy the process of creating something from bunch of parts and paint. This is sort of like asking a painter or a sculptor why they do what they do. I think it is also about being creative. Granted, with a model kit one is not as creative as a painter or sculptor who start from raw materials, but there is definitely creativity involved in building model kits. it's fun! I also think there is a tie to someone's personality. Some people couldn't care less about some silly model, when others are actually drawn to building miniature models. I think it is in your genes. EDIT: I should add that I'm not just into model cars. I also build non-automotive model kits and N scale model trains.

I would take this to the next level: Don't be cheap on your hobby which you really enjoy (and which makes you forget about the grind and craziness of your daily life), and it is not much fun when your model is ruined by some cheap paints. Last thing you want is for your hobby becoming frustrating. Be thrifty on other things unrelated to the hobby. Get your priorities straight.

Yes, that is very important thing to consider. If you think about it, insulated wire's purpose is to conduct electricity. As such, the thickens (gauge) of the conductor is important to indicate how much electric current the wire can carry. The thickens of its insulation is not mentioned. But thickness of the insulation and the material it is made from is quite important as far as the maximum voltage it can withstand without breaking down. But that is specified in Volts (not in thickness). If you can find complete specifications, then the OD of the insulation will likely be stated, and some (but not all) sellers include that information. We use that electric wire to represent non-fictional wiring in out models. As such, we really care about the outside diameter of the insulation