SfanGoch

It's all relative. If you live in Europe, you might do the reverse. I was checking out an email from SpotModel. They're taking preorders for AMT1100, the '57 Chrysler 300C. 39.99 Euros or 47 bucks.

And there it is.

If the prices go up, das macht mir nichts. There are only a handful of Revell car kits I have any interest in anyway.

To each his own. I only mentioned it because they're available. If you have PS, you can curve letters; or, as Davoski mentioned, look for a free download of CorelDRAW.

Do you have Photoshop and/or Illustrator? If not, you can get Irfanview, download hundreds, if not thousands, of free fonts and go at it.

Doing that in my neighborhood is a sure way to get locked up for attempted graffiti wall tagging.

Zastava Models makes 1/24 diecasts of both. If you don't mind a bit of scratchbuilding a Yugo, take a piece of aluminum foil and carefully shape it until you get this:

From Testors Model Workshop series:

Most definitely. BNA is a great online shop.

If one wishes to get OCD, you can drill out the dimple, stretch a piece of clear sprue to the same diameter as the new fangled hole, polish the the tip, insert into the aforementioned hole, paint the tip with clear orange and VOILA! Ya got yerself a fancy-schmancy 1/25 scale turn signal bulb.

And, they're available on the cheap.

MCW makes a '57 Nomad body with interior tub and other parts for use with the '57 Bel Air Sedan.

Yer missin' me pernt, pally. Now I gots to pound me flippers on de keys to explain tings. Dem high button shoes is like yesterday's race results - in udder woids, old news. Wot I was tryin' t'say was dat only de old Mustache Petes stuff their dogs into dose straight jackets. Getting back to the '53-'54 Chevys, I would imagine that it would have been just as easy to mold the doors and trunk lid separately as was done with the earlier '55 and '56 Bel Airs.

The inspiration for that Chrysler was derived from the Henschel Hs 129 tank buster: large, ugly, overweight and underpowered for its intended use.

High button shoes............. Fashion savvy dames an' gorillas know dat spats are de cat's pyjamas:

Rumor mongering sure adds up a heap load o'pages.

That's what pets are for.

We, and a few others, are in the minority on this. My armor kits cost, on average, a whole lot more than fifty bucks each. But, you get what you pay for. The majority seems to want styrene swellness at bargain basement prices.

Using a #61 drill bit, make a dimple in the center of the turn signal. Paint the dimple with Metalizer Aluminum, let it dry and apply a small amount of Model Master Turn Signal Amber into the dimple. When that is dry, apply a light coat of gloss clear or Future over the signal lens.

Here it is in everybody's favorite pseudo-lingo, Esperanto: Certiĝu la cemento ne alkondukos la cemento al la antaŭa glaco kun via fingro konektante la fjordo pipoj al la cemento fjordo. Sure clears things up, eh?

The same could be said about a slew of '50s autos which seem like no-brainer subjects as scale model kits.

Mike Miller, proprietor of Wings, Wheels and Waves, bought MCW Auto Finishes. If you're going to order MCW paints, use this order form or call (330) 830-7755 to make a phone order. You'll need to peruse the paint listings at MCW because WWW doesn't list them on its site.

Everything and more about all things Cadillac : New Cadillac Database Check out the sections for Cadillac toys and scale models. There is an interesting section on Johan Caddys.

That was Revell H-1244 '57 Cadillac Eldorado Brougham

Tip for filling in the slots on the chassis: Instead of using plastic filler and/or rods, use Magic-Sculpt, or some other similar two part epoxy putty. Just squeeze the Magic-Sculpt into the cavities and, using a wet finger, smooth the epoxy down to match the contours. The putty doesn't shrink when dry and there isn't the possibility of warpage as there is when using solvents to bond the styrene rods. Once the epoxy is dry, you'll only need to use a medium sanding stick/ paper for final shaping.