SfanGoch

Back in the late '70s, I worked as an engine room helper at 1133 6th Avenue in Manhattan. At the time, RCA Records had recording studios there on the 5th-8th floors. Tom Collins (not the producer), RCA recording engineer, was a friend of mine and he gave me 71 studio session tapes from Cab Calloway to the Scorpions, Roberta Flack, The Rolling Stones (studio recordings from "The Rolling Stones, Now!) and a who's who list of other artists. I know what they're worth and I'm sitting on a goldmine.

The HT rockers are spread too far apart. The chassis fits the convertible; therefore, it should also fit the HT. It's not the frame/chassis. If the chassis are dimensionally identical, which they should be considering they're made from the same tooling, the problem is with the convertible body. That is obvious. Measure the width of both bodies at the rocker panels. From your photo, the convertible body appears wider. This could be a result of a production-related problems with the body. I've seen the same in other kit where the bodies were too wide and had similar gaps. Add shimstock to both chassis/frame edges and cement the rockers to the chassis/frame.

Check your inbox.

Just my opinion from using it, water-based clear urethane is recommended. No need for a final heavy coat. Spraying multiple light coats works with no orange peeling or puddling around scripts or other details.

I've experienced the same problem on model aircraft. The only cause for bubbles forming after spraying Future/Pledge/Whateverthehellitscallednow is the floor finish applied and subsequently drying on minute dust particles. It's best to wipe the surface with a lint-free cloth prior to use.

This isn't the first civilian bus Roden has produced. They also produce an Opel Blitzbus Ludwig "Aero", an early 1900s British Type B Bus, a Vomag Omnibus 7 OR 600 and an Opel Blitz "Strassenzepp Essen" omnibus. Type B Bus

Try a different browser.

Depends on the paint and how long it was allowed to cure. Years ago, I rattlecanned a Revell '67 Chevelle with MM Arctic Blue Metallic and put it aside for about a year. I later pulled it out and the paint was rock hard and glossy. I used Novus 2 to i,prove the finish and I didn't have any problems with the flakes swirling.

Cindy Adams, like the coelacanth, is considered a living fossil. Only in New York, kids....

I prefer multiple thin coats to single heavy layers. This minimizes the possibility of obscuring details. Psst, Pete........Say howdy to Lena the Hyena from Lower Slobbovia....hubba-hubba! AH-OO!

There's a better and more detailed tutorial at Uschi van der Rosten.

I'm so glad you brought up "creative arts". Everybody's favorite pinneped, Artie the Seal sez

Paint the base with an acrylic paint, such as Vallejo Model Color 70.834 Natural Wood Grain apply clearcoat (flat/semigloss/gloss, it doesn't matter), followed by a wash of Vallejo Model Color 70.828 Woodgrain Use a water dampened cloth and lightly wipe the darker color off, following the grain. There will be enough residual paint left in the recessed areas to impart a wood-like appearance.

I make $65 an hour selling velvet Elvis art at poop.com.

ICM released 1/35 and 1/24 versions of its Mercedes G4. If the bus sells well, Roden might be inclined to release a 1/24 version in the future.

Dat's wot I'm talking about. K.I.S.S. ?

Molotow is an ink. Do you have any MM Metalizer around?

Just enough to lightly coat the wheels. When you see a slight shine, stop.

This is becoming ponderous. Buy a paint booth or build your own. You guys build models, so, constructing a simple paint booth will be a piece of cake. Even an idiot like me can do this. It's nothing more than a box with exhaust fans. It'll cost you around 40 bucks in materials, including two 4.7" 110v axial fans. Mount the fans on a board, fit the board to an adjustable window screen, place the constructed box on a small table and slide it against the window sill behind the fans and paint. I live in an apartment and manage to do this. No fumes from enamels, lacquers or acrylics; additionally, it's never to cold or humid to paint.

Frame dimensions of 1967 Impala, 1969 Grand Prix and 1970-72 Monte Carlo: 1967 Impala 1969 Grand Prix 1970-72 Monte Carlo The '67 Impala looks like the closest match.

The '66-'69 Rivieras are X-frames, which wouldn't be accurate. The AMT '67 Impala (119" wheelbase) uses a box frame similar to the Grand Prix. Changing the front upper and lower control arms would be required, at the very least.

1966-69 Rivieras had a 119" (119mm in 1/25) wheelbase. That extra 1mm is negligible if you want to use the chassis. I'd suggest the AMT '66 Riviera chassis since it has separate suspension and exhaust parts.

Going through an email from MotionRC, I saw this: Kyosho Fazer Mk2 FZ02L 1967 Pontiac GTO Champagne Metallic 1/10 Scale 4WD Car - RTR

Brass and copper oval tubing is available from K & S and other suppliers. . No crimping or crushing required. Just cut the required length.

If you have the MPC and AMT/ERTL kits, why would you want to get the Airfix version? Aside from the cost, they're the same kit. I'm just asking, Ray.