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I'm getting used to it, the last time i took on the council i saved everyone from having to buy new bins when the bin men destroyed them. I said the same thing then, my taxes paid for the bins and your guys destroyed them. why should we have to pay again? if something is already paid from my tax there is no way i'm going to pay twice.

It was kinda windy here last night. The local council had harris fencing on the pier to assist with cruise passengers and to stop them falling between the pier and boats. Due to the wind last night I took it upon myself to tie them down to the pier rails as the fencing was starting to get blown off the pier. Today they threatened me with fines for tampering with their property. I'll be fighting it and refusing to pay as i told them it was getting blown in the water and they did nothing about it. The way I see it my taxes paid for the fencing. They lost at least 25 panels of the fencing before i got it tied down and i saved the rest from being lost

Is a u-haul body like the truck with a box on the back? If so theres an ambulance box available in resin

I use a micromesh polishing kit before the polishing compounds. Once the clear has properly dried I start with the 2500 grit and work my way up to the 12000 grit. I've even used it on gray primer and ended up with a high gloss finish without using any polishing compounds, just the micromesh pads

I ended up stripping mine as i got fed up with the roof being short. I dont have a better pic of the roof but you can see it on this pic.

I'd go for the arai 58 convertible if it was me. I've built the hardtop and the roof was a couple of mm too short and didn't fit the screen rail. Its also available in imai boxings as well as a few others. I think italeri or heller had it out within the last few years so that version might be cheaper than the japanese boxings

OK admit it, one of you bought tracy emin a welder didn't you?

Happened upon a group of dutch volvo enthusiasts today. 2 amazons, a 18oos and a couple of 80s 240 wagons. I think one of the amazons might have been played with under the hood, its sounded strong

Nice colour choices. You might be in for a small problem though with the rear firewall. There shouldn't be gap between the two pieces as it is the mount for the hood to the body and is very likelly to stop the body sitting down correctly, If you haven't glued it too solid you might be able to get it in line with a small amount of force and not damage your paint. I would hate to see such a small piece hold back your model when it looks so nice

Usually its just the steering part that links the wheels that dont get glued, i would expect everything else to be glued as the suspension itself doesn't look like it moves. It could be worth looking at other builds of the same kit to see how they did it. If its an older tamiya kit sometimes they had postcard size sheets included to amend steps in the instructions so there is the chance it may be missing

Could you take a pic of the vw set please. It sure looks lie it would be useful to me

Since a splitter tends to be thin I'd try food containers. I'd make a template of where it will mount to the body then shape the rest of the spltter to suit your taste. If you want to add braces i would drill holes to fit pins in the splitter and body. For non flat splitters I would make the splitter in layers

Its a spoiler under the front of a car to aid downforce in a race car, and fitted to a lot of pro touring type cars and tuners

save it on your computer as a jpeg file (to be sure its a supported format) then just upload it the same way as a pic

I'm pretty sure i have a set of them in my stash, no ides what kit they are from but the wheel fronts have a mount that goes through the wheel back for the wire axle to go into. I think they are late60s or early 70s wheels as all the others in the lot were that age

If you have a fly fishing store close by, they might have some of the braided line for tying flies. It looks a lot like metal wire. You can also roll a file sideways on ordinary clear line and it then looks like wire if you press down hard enough

I'd cut it roughly close to shape, then take a tube of the required diameter and cover it in p80-120 sandpaper and use that to get the final shape. Remember to mark out the final shape beforehand and it should go pretty quickly

Very cool, I'd never thought to paint an nsx gold but it suits it really well

I was meaning from the start of season 2 of americas list. Look at the front bumper of the car in the interview background again, ziptie has a cut out centre for the pro charger while the one in the background doesn't have the cut out. Could they have ziptie lookalike for doing car shows maybe so they can still race those days?

The rear suspension from some of the tamiya gt race cars might be a decent starting point for the suspension arms, and some springs outta some biros would be about the right size, then a little scratching with tube to make the shocks and you'd be pretty well on the way. Here's some shocks i started a while back for an f350 but the idea would be similar

its a 70s auto paint i think but im not sure on american terms. I only know cos i tried to use it over acrylic and didn't understand why it crazed all over. I wouldn't bother with their acrylics, most seem to be full of sand in my experience

The humbrol clear red is a celulose paint, not an enamel like the other paints so I would say no. If you use a magnifier the tiny lines on the humbrol tin are actually the ingredients but why they wrote them in letter you cant see with just your eyes is beyond me.

There are at least 3 issues, the xr3 twice and datapost race car and i think there is also a turbo version or rs1600i

I got mine from a seller in france called arm2017 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274753466503