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Everything posted by stitchdup
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1949 VW Hebmuller (working front suspension)
stitchdup replied to stitchdup's topic in WIP: Model Cars
I got most of the body parts in primer this morning. I had to use white primer as I'm going to use the same blue pearl I used on the 68 charger a couple of years ago. I'll be doing the sides in pearl white first. I've also decided to use the stock wheels from the tamiya kit so i can use the chrome hubcaps and one of the pe wheel trim sets. This also means i can save the smoothies from the heb kit for another bug or bus. To make the pe parts pop i did the wheels in dark blue as it wouldn't show up so well with the body colours. The convertible top will be black though i did consider doing it tan to match the interior. There isn't a back seat in a heb, instead it has a luggage area so I am going to cover it with a bit of wood which I'll add some chrome strips to similar to what the stock interior has. I've got a few pe parts to fit to the interior but they'll have to wait until the interior is painted. Since the luggage area was going to be empty I made a suitcase to sit in it. I've covered it with superglue to hopefully give it a slightly battered/aged look -
If your using paperclips sand them a little before you glue them, some off them dont seem to stay stuck if you dont
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Kits or resin bodies of Land Yacht cars?
stitchdup replied to Hotrod 97's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
If your going to be customising everything, hasegawa have 4 full size curbsides, a caddy, buick, chevy and thunderbird. the bodies are nice but the interiors are very generic with the entire dash being a decal. The chassis is pretty much a flat sheet too -
proboards forums
stitchdup replied to stitchdup's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
they seem to be working now, but for the first hour it was an error every time -
Want to talk about rare vw kits? I really liked the amt scirocco kit but it looked really small copared to my other kits. Then this popped up on the auction site. I'll be mixing it with a revell mk1 and trying to make it into something closer to a stock body using the revell body that will be leftover from a c1 trans kit. I also got this 64 caddy built up/promo that will be getting an ls engine and big rims,
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Very nice, it looks good in white
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Is anybody else unable to get onto any proboards forums today?
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Looking good Kurt. Just an idea since your doing a ramp at the side door, but how about making hand controls for the driver and a pivoting seat so a wheelchair user can drive it? of course you'd need to do hand controls too but having seen your scratch work I have no doubt you could do it, and its something i dont think i've ever seen in a model
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i think thats photoshopped, they only came in 14" originally, and they did a short run of them in 17" a few years ago
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if you have a set of micro drills, one size will be the same as paperclips and they are much cheaper than styrene
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I know i've got a pic of a set painted to look like cookies, but i cant find it to post (but since i have nearly 50,000 vw golf pics thats no surprise)
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Theres a curbside kit out there by mitsuawa, but i wouldn't reccomend it. the interior panels are too short for the kit, and nothing really fits very well. I had to do a lot of sanding on the body to get it to look more like a golf
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I got them from ascp on ebay, they are really nice. they do 2 sizes, 14 and 17 inch. They are acurate scale and slightly smaller than the same size aoshima wheels. this is the 14 inch version, i think they look a little undersize on the revell golfs but the 17 would be better. I've included a pic of them under a hasegawa vw to show the size a little better
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Favorite Putty/Seam FIller
stitchdup replied to WigWag Workshop's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
For larger fills I've been using gold topstop from simoniz, its a finegrain 2 part automotive filler that comes in litre size tins. For pinholes i've been using 3m green spot putty from a tube. For gaps that have nothing behind them i used acrylic finger nail filler with the 5 minute activator but it really smells strong so Im doing some practice with white milliput since it has much less fumes and does a similar job, and is also much easier to sand down. For now though since i'm stick away from home i'll be using humbrol filler but it can be very hit and miss sometimes -
Another thing i just remembered about the side coves, when i did mine i tried to fill the gaps afterwards but in reflection I would have been better adding the plastic before i stuck them on. It was a pain trying to get them right and would have saved a lot of cussing if I had done it first. It still works the way i did it, it would just have worked better doing it first
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The meng kits are impressive, even the boxes they come in are among the boes quality i've seen in kits. Revell could learn a lot from meng when it comes to the packaging.
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there an h1 hummer too, it looks pretty good. I still need to get the jeep
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I've got a very similar build in my unfinished pile. I did a slice at the lower corners of the window so i could pull the pillars into line, I think i sliced about 5mm (maybe less its been unfinished a while) into the corners at about 45 degress. I didn't cut the top either, but i leaned the entire rear forward, but it may have only worked for me as i sectioned the body too. I really need to dig it out and finish it. I put it back in the box after the pillars broke at the rear so if you do a little reinforcing to the back of them you can avoid that pitfall as the fit was very tight on mine. I hope this helps sorry the pics are poor but hopefully you can see how i avoided cutting the roof
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That looks sweet, and very current in your styling choices. Very nice paint too