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Everything posted by stitchdup
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I sent a parcel from scotland to the us, and it sat for 6 weeks in chicago, then bounced through a few other places for 2 weeks, to new york to sit for a week before finally ending up in texas where it should have been. It only took 3 days to get to the us though
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Moebius - Now that the Comet is out, What's Next
stitchdup replied to Swifster's topic in Car Kit News & Reviews
I'd like to see a 68-79 vw van, bus or pick up. Pretty sure it would sell well and offer other livery options -
I think they took the back off to reduce the weight over the back axle, all that glass must weigh a good bit. The truck conversions are not exactly popular but there are a few running in various drift series, mostly based on nissan S chassis. It looks to be a well done conversion though, most look like hack jobs but the work on the back window looks like a decent amount of time and thought was put into it before cutting.
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'66 Chevy crew dually
stitchdup replied to dieseldawg142's topic in WIP: Model Trucks: Pickups, Vans, SUVs, Light Commercial
Neat work, I've done this conversion as well but I used the amt fleetside and revell stepside. I see you got the roof sorted out already, I found it to be a pig of a job to get looking right but I did my doors a bit differently. -
scaleproduction.de do a set of mk2 big bumpers that could be modified into a clipper kit and some german aftermarket and porsche wheels. I think the vr6 engines you've seen may be scratch built using parts from the fujimi mk3 kit (it just has a top half done toy style)
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Splitting round tubing longitudinally
stitchdup replied to landman's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Depending on the length you need, a simple mitre block from wood or metal might be your best bet. Just place 2 bits side by side with a gap to hold your tube tight enough that it's not going to wobble, and a couple inches long so your cuts will be in the same place the whole way, then another couple of bits of wood on top and below to hold your saw in place over the centre and start cutting. As your cutting there should be enough bend in the cut ends to clear the saw. Remember to have the saw at an angle so it stays square to the tube. I hope that makes sense, if not I can do a quick drawing of what I mean that might explain it better -
I have the fujimi retro set, but I didn't realise there was an aoshima set too. The engine I'm using is from the tamiya r32 nismo which is pretty easy to find
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Cheers guys
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This is being built from the heller kit. It's currently stalled but still near the top of the pile. I got as far as giving it a bit of a chop, and laid the grille back a little. At the rear I considered replacing the trunk area with the one from a 40 ford, but on a whim I tried the spare wheel carrier from a 42 ford woody and it looked like a good fit, custom but not overly so so it retains some of it's original character while looking a bit more sleek. For wheels I will be using the lindberg chrysler concept rims with some aoshima tyres narrowed to fit. The engine is going to be a nissan skyline straight 6 with the turbo and 4x4 stuff removed and possibly some modified carbs. I made up a sorta fantasy independent rear from some parts box bits and then hit a block on the front end. I want to have an inboard suspension but there are so many different set ups for them I got myself stuck on which to use, lol. The first pic is the stock mock up with the wheels I will be using, though they now have much lower profile tyres.
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Had a bit more of a play with this tonight. I still need to try my usual paints on it, and also to try flocking on it to see how it goes but so far it is very promising for doing trim. For tonights experimenting I used a kids mesh shower bag as the former and rolled some of the warmed up sheet over it. I did find that sanding the edges wasn't such a good idea as it went hairy, but since it cuts so easily some careful trimming with an exacto will work. It's just placed on the seat at the moment but when I know it takes paint I will be cutting out the centres to mount it flush.
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It is but it need higher heat to make it workable. You might need to use a metal form instead of kit parts - https://www.coscraft.co.uk/thermoplastics/699-worbla-s-transpa-art-a4-size.html
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I'm going to experiment with it later and will post the results. I like how if I stuff it up I can just soak it again and try again though.
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I was looking for plastic sheet the other day and this stuff was one of the hits. It's the thibra stuff - https://www.coscraft.co.uk/3-thermoplastics-foam . It arrived this morning and I just had to have a play with it. I have only tried a small piece but it opens up a whole world of possibilities for interior trim and other uses. To start I put a small bit in boiling water for 2 or 3 minutes then pressed/rolled it over a bit of mesh and the results are promising. It might not hold up for parts that will get a lot of handling as it can be a little flakey/powdery when handled. This is how it arrived (minus the test piece) And this is the result after pressing/rolling onto the mesh My plan now is to make new trim for seats after I find a suitable sized mesh
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complified completed + modified
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If you look for nail art shops you could save a load of cash on flocking. Look for stuff they call "velvet nails", I just got a selection of 12 colours for less than $10, and another bonus is the much wider choice of colours. I recently found a place that does 10 gram pots for $2 each but it's in the uk
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Fabric covered spark plug wires in 1:25th scale
stitchdup replied to Impalow's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Rolling the normal plug wire with the grain under a file (using it to add texture rather than filing, not sure what the correct term is) and matt coating it might give the effect you want -
hannants have a 2 actual bricks and mortar shops too
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here ya go - https://www.hannants.co.uk/search/index.php?product_category_id=&product_division_id=&manufacturer_id=8044&code=&product_type_id=&scale_id=952&keyword_search=&stock=1&setPerPage=25¤cy_id=
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Lace Graphic Mask or Decal
stitchdup replied to Joe Handley's topic in Car Aftermarket / Resin / 3D Printed
I use actual lace, if you look in the fabric section of a store (if your lucky there will be loads of different designs) for lace ribbon it is what I use. Just mask off where you dont want lace, then place the lace over the top and tape down the edges, and just a couple of very light dust coats of the colour you want the lace should give you the effect you want. Just be sure to remove the lace as soon as it's done as it can leave bits behind in the paint if it dries. Thats how I did my caddy and vw van roofs (both on here somewhere) -
Just finished this one, if it's not kit chrome it the molotowe pens on the chassis, and foil for the body trim. The engine is also the pen. Pretty much a box stock build but I lowered the rear more, scratch built a bed cover and scratch built the shocks and spreings to ressemble hydros. I left the front wheels loose so I could have it sit in different ways for the pics
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More on Molotow pens
stitchdup replied to smhardesty's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
I tried duplicolour clear on it and it went silver, and I tried a wash of tamiya light smoke but it did the same. A club member has used future and thought it was ok, but I havent tried it myself yet -
Recently got these. I was pleasantly susprised by how stuffed the ford pick up box is (until I tried to get it all back in the box, lol) and the caddy came with some nicely rechromed bumpers to replace the tatty originals which were in the box too. I have to go to the post office later to pick up another box too
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If you dont mind ordering from the UK, kitformservices have 2 sizes that look pretty good