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Everything posted by stitchdup
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I tend to find out here or from the hlj emails
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"Rock, paper, scissors" inspired game
stitchdup replied to Cpt Tuttle's topic in The Off-Topic Lounge
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"Rock, paper, scissors" inspired game
stitchdup replied to Cpt Tuttle's topic in The Off-Topic Lounge
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Airfix Bugatti Veyron
stitchdup replied to misterNNL's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
There are diecast in my local supermarket (tesco for the uk guys) in 1/24. Its not too bad for the price about 8quid i think, the shape looks right and the scale seems ok. It has an interior that could be used possibly to do the airfix kit into something or at least a starting point for one of you guys that details up diecasts. I'm thinking to get one to steal the wheels, steering wheel and seats for one of my vw builds -
Displaying with a Removable Body for Shows?
stitchdup replied to lghtngyello03's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
there's a few resin engines for the r32 and the tamiya nismo street car has a nice one too. I dont know off a r34 engine but theres a good chance someone makes one given how popular skylines are but it would probably be street engines -
Cool, I've seen a few 1/1s done like this to display product. A great idea for a model.
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Displaying with a Removable Body for Shows?
stitchdup replied to lghtngyello03's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
The fit of tamiya kits is pretty tight sometimes so you may need to trim the sills and back edges of the bumpers too for easy removal. You may find though that the body hangs lower than you want when it is on too as it would be sitting on the cage. Whats your plans for the engine as I dont believe this kit comes with one which may spoil the effect you are after. I hope I'm not putting you off though, this sounds like a really cool project and I'll be following -
Wild and very cool
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Cool and a great idea using the interior tub as a body, it sure looks the part
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I'll give it a chance but if it gets bad again I'm afraid i will replace it
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to get a straight edge there's a simple method I use. You will need a razor saw, enough masking tape to cover the face of the rim you are cutting and a few bits of something solid that is the same size you wish to remove from the wheel and the length of the saw blade. On a smoooth flat surface (I use an old photo frame) lay 2 strips of the wood parralell to each other. Place the blade of the saw on top of this and tape down firmly and lengthways. Take care to be sure at this point that the height is the same as what you wish to remove, and not on the spine of the saw. Next tape the face of the rim up to protect the chrome (I do this even if it will be painted to save the fine detail) Now put the rim face down and and start sliding it along the edge of the saw, rotating often and you will get a straight and level cut. The reason for laying the rim face down is its a level surface, while the back of some rims may look level to the eye, generally they have mounts which get inthe way. Hope this helps EDIT: make sure to only put light pressure on the rim when cutting as you are removing all the strength from the rim and too much pressure could deform/break it
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Paste toothpaste for polishing.
stitchdup replied to ewetwo's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
avoid the arm and hammer baking soda paste, well all the baking soda pastes as they will ruin your day -
My sister got a bravery award for her job with the scottish ambulance service last week, at edinburgh castle from the first minister, and today she got interviewed by the radio about it. She was very modest about it all and made sure to repeat many times how many other people were involved in the rescue and how without them she wouldn't have managed. Tomorrow she's away again to be recognised for raising a fair amount of cash for multiple sclerosis at the houses of lords in london. I'm most happy to see her being recognised for what she does, not for the awards as she herself has multiple sclerosis. Personally I think she is a great example of humanity
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I've sent them a message through ebay so hopefully he still has the mould. The 57 will be getting ordered either way though
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thanks, I'll try ebay
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Does anyone have up to date contact details for bestmodelcarparts? I would like one of their hebmuller conversions but the website is just an empty template
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Why do you build models?
stitchdup replied to Oldmopars's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
I think I might have had a couple of kits while I was a kid but i dont really count them as modelling such as I do now. The first time I got serious about building models was in my early 20s, as a sort of therapy to get away from real life (I was watching my dad die slowly from cancer) so it was escapism I guess. After he passed away I sorta forgot about models for about 15/20 years. Then about 7/8 years ago I found a revell escort rally car which remained unbuilt for a couple years before i even opened it. I finally opened the kit while needing something to take me away from real life again as I was caring for my grandmother who had dementia/alzheimers and passed away 2 years ago, however this time I had friends on the forums to keep me inspired, and I kept building but this time its no about escaping but actually having fun and creating something. So I guess you could say for me modelling was a selfish way of hiding that really became a passion. -
"Rock, paper, scissors" inspired game
stitchdup replied to Cpt Tuttle's topic in The Off-Topic Lounge
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"Rock, paper, scissors" inspired game
stitchdup replied to Cpt Tuttle's topic in The Off-Topic Lounge
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"Rock, paper, scissors" inspired game
stitchdup replied to Cpt Tuttle's topic in The Off-Topic Lounge
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this is why you should never leave your jeep and smart car alone together, contraception saves eyes people
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VW Golf mk3 van
stitchdup replied to stitchdup's topic in WIP: Model Trucks: Pickups, Vans, SUVs, Light Commercial
Got some more done on the engine this afternoon. I made up the turbo manifold from a couple of matching headers from a v8 kit and used one of the small hobby design turbos. For the air intake for the turbo I used a corner from a sprue and a hobby design cone filter. If you look closely at the pic from the top you can see the turbo outlet is hitting the firewall so my plan to fix that is to trim and angle the outlet. The second pic shows how little room there is behind the engine for the pipe to the intercooler (hobby design again) as it has to go over the driveshaft and then fit between the engine and side of the bay. Hopefully this wont be too bad to build as the inlets for the cooler stick into the engine bay instead of out the sides like the others I have. I have a header set from a drag car that will be providing the pipes for this as they are the diameter I need for this and since they all twist in different ways I might be lucky and some of them fit with just a little trimming. I should probably say that other than the grille and lights (not yet shown) anything resin will be hobby design parts. The induction on the front of the engine uses the tamiya pipes but the rest is scratchbuilt and still in progress