stitchdup

Nice job, it seems odd to me seeing the french colour scheme, i grew up with a mf35 and their paint was the opposite

workshop ideas and you could end up with the pontiac aztek

They're decent kits but some are formerly motorised so have very simple chassis. I've got a few of their kits and the bodies are generally good but the rest is hit and miss. Apart from the enthusiast kits, (some of which got a recent rerelease that doesn't say enthusiast anywhere on the box) i'd say the older curbsides are more beginner kits with some having less than 40 parts but once together they look good. The later curbsides tend to have nice body and chassis but plain interior door panels but most of these have engines and bays available as prints. I've got a revell version of the fujimi mercedes in front of me now and the chassis is more toy than model but yet it has interior panels. If your looking for an e36 dont rule out the tamiya kit, if you can order from one of the big japanese online stores they are close to the same price. Revell also have some e36 curbside kits but those are big money just now but hopefully they see fit to give us them again some time. there also the revell e21 in rally and street versions that builds up nice (the rally version is also on my bench just now along with an e46) and it doesn't look out of olace with my 1/24 kits. since your looking at the bmws you might also like the mercedes kits

https://www.motortrend.com/news/legends-collide-the-custom-mustang-gt40-ford-mach-40-342335/

Just getting started on this. Since i waited 2 years on pre order its now time to do something with one of them. Its not going to be a race car anymore and will now be a stanced out show car. Since a show car needs a custom interior and this only has a dash top i'm using one from the revell e tron and will modify it to fit the inner tub from the a4. i'll also be using the e tron door panels and using its lower dash, suitably reshaped for a 1996. Doing it this way means my interior will be a little shallow but it gains me a parcel shelf that fits the body so the trade off is worth it. pics from spot model

boat floating is a very important part of being a boat otherwise you have a submarine

i appreciate the offer but i'm in scotland. shipping is ridiculously priced just now. 2 resin grilles cost 66 dollars shipping a few months back!!

cool, nice to see a late bug

2;35am seems like the perfect time to teach your satlings a new musical instrument such as bagpipes or trumpet

about halfway down this page https://mrmodel.store/en/19-124-photoetched?p=3

Does it have to start with a sedan kit? i've only got a coupe and roadster kit but my idea is based on a sedan and i enjoy bodymods. Nobody has come close to my idea yet.....

also, there are 2 versions of the mk2 kits. one is a rally car but the other is a zackspeed(ish) track car. i've got a long stalled zackspeed with one of the uscp cosworth engines in it that i really should get back to

man, i'm in the uk and i've never heard of it. now to find a shop to order it for me. thanks for posting

those kits are probably the easiest of the lot to lower. its as simple as moving the body mounts up inside the body then trimming the same amount from the seat base

in theory they should fit as the zackspeed 4 would be a crossflow or pinto based engine and both were available in the escorts. You would need to fabricate a complete engine bay as the belkits chassis has no relation to an escort bay (or buy one of the excellent scale production bays) but italeri/revell did most of that on their mk2 escorts already if you fancied some kit bashing. The mustang imsa was just a rebodied zackspeed capri under the skin anyway and they were evolutions of the zackspeed escorts so i'd say go for it. incidentally zackspeed were getting 6 and 700 bhp out of 1.4 engines during this time

humbrol poly cement for plastic but its been hard to find recently so i've been using revell. its a little thinner than the humbrol. for resin, pe and prints i use the cheapest superglues from the pound shop. if theres less than 8 in the pack i dont buy them. i've been experimenting with tamiya glues but i'm not ready to use them on a model yet. for flocking i use humbrol gloss enamels in a close colour and for small pe i use sometimes use clear enamel

freaky cool, looks just like one i found on flickr the other day

does it come in a pair?

it makes perfect sense, have you seen the price of porsche v8 parts?

all the kings horses and all the kings mem couldn't put humpty together again but i'm sure we could if we used modern glues

use 2 nuts and you can stop them loosening in the same way as tie rods on your 1/1s

you could try a small vice with some soft padded jaws. you should find them near wood lathes at your local tool emporium. make sure the pads aren't the cheap rivetted ones cos they are trash. these jaws are for holding round items.

does it fit to a loose part? if it does you could glue it in place then trim it afterwards.

The reason the ford pump rebuild worked on the 35 was ford continued to licence the hydraulic system. There may have been external differences (i only know of a couple of 9n locally and they are both imports but theres a lot more pre war fordsons) but the insides hung around for a good while. The petrol 35s used an engine from the standard vanguard car after the ford engines dried up. incidentally its estimated that between 75 and 90 per cent of the fords and fergies still exist