BigTallDad

Pull a short (18") length through some fine steel wool...that'll knock the glaze off.

You need to be very careful in centering the bit within the gauge template, and you'll be doing it blind because of the material you're attempting to cut. You'll have to do this twice, with differing sizes of drills/gauges in order to get rings; if you only use one size, you end up with a disc, not a ring. Also, would you be using the shank end of the bit or the cutting end? The shank end doesn't have a really crisp edge for cutting, and the cutting end is very irregular, causing misalignment. Hope it works for you

I believe that's Ed "Kookie" Burns from the tv show '77 Sunset Strip. He also had a song about him....Kookie, Kookie, lend me your comb... Good grief I'm getting old!

Do a search on You Tube for Don Yost. The man is very good, and shares his techniques/tips.

Yep! I use Google and mine says "Not secure"

Same here. It was supposed to seal the edge based on the moisture in the latex paint...NOT

I use both Matte (for carpeting and cloth seats) and semi-gloss for vinyl/leather seats/door panels etc. Krylon makes a clear acrylic for both (as well as a gloss), one can of each will work for almost any color you can think of. Since it's acrylic, concerns about paint reactions are reduced.

It seems that all the images I've seen show nicely aligned columns/rows but no overlap on the turnings. I did some engine turning on a hunting knife blade a few years back where each turning overlapped the previous turning by the length of the turning's radius (a half overlap). Then next row of turnings was moved down by the radius, but the center of the turning was offset (by half the radius of the above row) to the left. When all was said and done, each turning only had one-quarter visible...the rest was over-turned by successive turnings, and the total effect was a stair-stepped appearance.

x2 Do you have any interior shots? I'd love to see the transmission buttons on the steering wheel.

My kind of person!

You really need to post a tutorial on that paint job, it is awesome!

Absolutely stellar work, especially the dash. I found it interesting that the exhaust comes out of both sides of the engine, narrowed into a single tube, then split again just before the rear bumper...other than aesthetics, why did they bother?

Mark my words, some nut-job will put a bumper sticker on it.

The needle might be bent. Remove the needle and roll it on a very flat surface; if the tip wobbles, the needle is bent and may need to be replaced.

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Keep in mind there's a difference between the saw being discussed in this topic (also known as a mitre saw) and a table saw. The blade used for cutting glass is typically a diamond-tipped blade. As a last resort, one can always cut the plastic 1/32" longer, then sand to length.

Decal printing is fairly straight-forward: There are basically two backgrounds for decal paper...white or clear. I keep both types on hand. Since very few printers have a white ink cartridge, decals with white contents will need to be printed on white decal paper. A sneaky way around this is print the image on clear, and put a blank layer of white where you want the white letters/numbers/etc. to appear on the model, then apply the clear decal. You can also scan the paint color you're using on the model (sprayed on white plastic and scanned), surround the image (using Photoshop/MS paint/Gimp/etc.) with that color, then print the image on white decal paper. I've had limited success with this approach. You might have to set your printer to a "Glossy Photo Paper" setting. To determine if this is necessary, create a small image, set the printer orientation to Portrait, orient the printing to occur at the top left of the page, then print the image. If the "Glossy Photo Paper" setting isn't correct, change it; orient the printing to occur at the top center of the page, then print the image again, making sure to orient the feed on the printer tray to re-print the decal paper. You only need to do this once, and by printing a small image in portrait format, you can cut that part off and re-use almost that whole sheet. After printing, I let the ink dry for a day, then I lightly spray it with Krylon Crystal Clear acrylic coating (gloss) and repeat with another coat after the first coat dries. Let that dry for a day also. I've tried hotter clears, such as Tamiya TS-13, but the ink bled because of the clear. Hope this helps

That makes sense. If the radio and heater were options, the b/u lights would also be an option.

Absolutely STELLAR work! I commend you! It's too bad the kit-supplied tail-light lenses stick out so far, and all four are red. The inner two lenses also had back up lights

Very nicely done! Well thought out and executed. Will you be able to take the wheels off (without too much damage) to get all the tread patterns proper?

Great approach to make sure all the lights are the same thickness. I'm sure you're aware that the center light on each side is a back-up light with a clear center.

Stellar work on the 1:1 as well as the model, but I'm an old coot and don't understand what "'color chrome" centers" are. Is that a prismatic paint, or what?

That could very well be the case.

The weathering is great, but why would someone have "mag wheels" on a beater?

Nope, not at all