BigTallDad

Perhaps the OP has arthritis or (hopefully not) missing fingers.

I have to chuckle at the comments about not needing a power drill. I suspect that those folks will, on occasion, use a Dremel. I posted a tutorial (A handy accessory) on using a power drill as a lathe, tire-treatment too, etc. and without that drill cradle, a lot of accuracy (and time) would be lost. Unfortunately, Photobucket is applying their extortion to me (as well as everybody else) and the pictures don't show. Keep on truckin' Miatatom!

Absolutely awesome!

I generally display my finished models in clear plastic cases and the hoods are open.

That's a very impressive display of the "Emergency" function, Jonathan. Does the lighting array also have a "Normal" mode (headlights with high/low beams, tail lights, brake lights, and turn signals)?

I agree. Lots of old gangster movies had 'em when a senior mob figure died (or was killed). Here's an example. http://www.imcdb.org/vehicle_38469-Cadillac-Calais-Flower-Car-1970.html BTW. this is a great site for researching vehicles shown in movies.

I don't think I've ever seen a blue hearse before...they are generally black.

The circuitry does not change; merely substitute dimmable LEDs for the filament bulbs, paying attention to the polarity of the LED.

When I built the '55, dimmable LEDs were not available...I needed the dimmable property for high/low beams, taillight vs brake light/turn signals.

I did a '55 Chevy with functional headlights (hi/low beam), parking lights (front & back), brake lights, and turn signals. Here's the link to the visuals, and the link to the schematics/circuitry is contained in that link. Hope this helps. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/102446-my-55-chevy/

For 18" I'd totally forget balsa, unless you have a structured arrangement...even basswood will sag, after a few years

I think more information is necessary: you're only giving one dimension...what are the other two; what kind of "load"; give an example (verbally or pictorially) of the part(s) you're replicating.

I'll wear them if I'm a contest judge and I'm handling models. Look on ebay for more info. Otherwise, I just wash my hands thoroughly before handling any parts.

My '91 GT looked very similar I used the 93 Cobra kit for my model

Huh? I've never heard of that procedure...I'm sure it costs lots of money.

I agree! Well written and photographed. Your tutorial addresses the distributor-cap end of the plug wire...here's a method for the plug-end of the wire (hopefully I'm not hijacking the current thread, I'm only trying to dot the i's and cross the t's) http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/101815-snug-spark-plug-boots/

The Revell kit is a skill level 3, and has more parts. The AMT kit is like most of their others...molded-in exhaust, etc. I've built Revell's 40 Ford Convertible (and their 48 Ford convertible) and I'd definitely go with Revell as opposed to AMT. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/101729-40-ford-convertible-a-sorta-woody/

Sounds like you have a life-time supply! I'm waiting for some pictures.

Excellent idea!

Just for the sake of clarity...are you looking for clips that would secure the hose to, for example, a fender well or are you looking for clamps that secure the connection of the hose to the water pump etc.? I'm seeing suggestions for both.

Small strips of aluminum would probably work. Use scissors (but NOT your wife's sewing scissors) to cut strips from an aluminum beverage can.

That tile pattern looks great! Another approach would placing styrene on a large-grid piece of wire screen, then vacu-forming the styrene.

Another thing not to throw in the purple pond: a paint brush with a metal ferrule

How about thin black thread? Use a cotton based (not a synthetic material) thin black thread. After cutting to length, soak it in diluted Elmer's white cement then apply...any smudges can be wiped off with Windex.