
Jhedir6
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2015 Ford Raptor #2
Jhedir6 replied to Jhedir6's topic in WIP: Model Trucks: Pickups, Vans, SUVs, Light Commercial
Small update. Doing laundry and decals in almost equal measures. Hosted on Fotki Body and box primed with ScaleFinishes Super Gray Primer then painted with their Guardsman Blue Metallic. Decals are from a 2010 Shelby GT500 and digital scans of the kit stickers and printed on decal paper (kit decals not on yet, they're up next). More later on tonight. -
Looking good. I really like this kit, nice and easy and very well detailed. I actually like that colour on yours too. Weathering on the wheels looks good as well. You could also try, and I havent, just a thought I have to try on a 4x4 at some point, is to take a round sponge, put it in a drill/dremel and use it to "fling" some acrylics at the body. Place the sponge inside the wheel well so it would be like its coming off the tires. The dollar stores here in Canada carry some cheap acrylic craft paints for painting wooden crafts they sell and I was thinking of using those on mine when I get around to it. Good luck and watching for more. David
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With a bunch of banked days from work and feeling a bit under the weather I decided today was a good day to take a personal day and do some building. With the McLaren 570S getting close to completion and with sub assemblies drying I want to keep rolling on some building so I am going to do a quick build on one of my many Raptors. Starting with Revell's extremely nice detailed Snap Kit...still wishing they had done a full kit of this. Adding in some different wheel and tires...Fireball Modelworks awesome KMC wheels w/ Goodyear Wrangler rubber. And a quick mock up w/dirt bike for fun before primer and paint. And off to the paint booth we go..... more in a bit. David
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Thanks guys. A couple shots of the doors taped in place. Working on some sub assembly painting and building tonight. Hoping to start on the CF work tomorrow.
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Dude....you should try to squeeze some Mopar builds into your repertoire. Nice Bruce. Stock engine or something more modern? Looking forward to more. David
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Small update, got everything primed and about half of everything painted. Body was done in Gunmetal first. I then masked off the areas that will get carbon fiber, shot some silver mid coat....sorry forgot to take a pic, but it was silver......trust me.....then I started in with Gravity Colors Hot Lava Orange. The first couple of coats looked like a metallic rose, and I wasnt happy, but by the third coat the orange started to show. It now looks more copperish than orange. But I like it as it is. We'll see what the clear brings. All the gunmetal will be done in split CF.....when I'm feeling brave enough to tackle it as it will be my first attempt at doing CF that way. More work tomorrow as I have the day off. I'm hoping to have everything painted then I can start in on sub assemblies and detailing. CF work later in the week. Comments and criticisms always welcome. David
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Ok, so my supplier informed me that some of my parts for the Mustang are on back order, a long, long, long back order. So I've decided to switch up my entry. Since this is a "road race" I'm going to go with an entry that has a bit more speed under it. Going for this: Just ordered one of C1 Models PPI Razor Audi R8 Extreme TK's. Been wanting one of these for awhile now and Chris has just reissued it for a limited run. The TK wont ship till the end of the month, but once it arrives I'm going to focus on this pretty much exclusively till its done. I'll be doing it as a full carbon wrap with Gravity Colors paint. And of course Revell's Audi R8 as a base. David
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Belated Christmas present to myself, Harder & Steenbeck Evolution 2n1 came in today. Hopefully I'll have time to give it a go tonight.
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Nice project. Then I'm a Mustang guy, so I'm all in on this one. It's definitely gonna need a rear diffuser. Looking forward to more. David
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Thanks guys, yes, the Plamoz wheels are much much better than the kit wheels. And I think these wheels give the car a more of a "Track Package" look. Small update. I added some 5/32nd Evergreen styrene tubing to the inside of the wheel assemblies to fit the Plamoz wheels properly, then shaved the mounting peg on the backside of the Plamoz wheel to sit back into the body like it should. Over all easy fix. I also split the front bumper and attached the top half to the body along with the rear side pods. The doors are just taped into place atm. The lower half and the front spliter is just taped as well for mock up. (Front wheel is sitting out abit on this shot, it doesnt really, must of slipped out some while I was moving it around for pics. It actually sits back where it should.) Still waiting on my new airbrush to arrive so no paint till then, and as of now, I'm still undecided on what colour to go with. More tomorrow. David
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Revell's new McLaren 570S, just arrived today. I didnt take any pics of the parts trees but you can see a nice unboxing video HERE And for a change I got one with a straight chassis. As per Revell's recent releases, nice kit, crappy wheels and tires. I've swapped mine out for Plamoz's Porsche 918 Weissach Package set along with the 918 kit tires. They require a bit of modding to fit right, but not much. Quick mock up with only one of the rear brakes in place to get a look at ride height, this should be pretty close to what it will look like over all. More later. David
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In the bottom right corner, MFH, Model Factory Hiro from Japan. Wow that was weird, bottom like 4 replies didnt load up until after I posted a response done 15mins ago.Sorry.
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Looks great man. So I was wrong, I said I didnt like the colour in the WiP cause I honestly thought it was gold and I do not like gold. This green tho, definitely looks good. Nice clean build, nice details, looks stellar. David
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69 COPO Nova (UPDATE - COMPLETED & UNDER GLASS 1-5-17)
Jhedir6 replied to lghtngyello03's topic in WIP: Model Cars
Nice build Scott, that paint came out nice, personally I'm not liking the colour, but you did a fabulous job on it. David. -
I have a 2006 Ford F150 Crew Cab and I so want one of these too. Been looking but no joy so far. Morning after I brought it home. Needs some minor work, but I really want to track down a 1/24 version of this model year(s). I may end up just taking a Meng F350 kit and modifying it back to this gen. David
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Im in on this too. I've got a few truck kits kicking around that need to be finished. I'm going to go with one started, lightly. Meng Ford F350. And it's, as stated above, already underway, this one is going to be lowered and customized just a bit. My inspiration for this build. It wont be exactly like the 1:1 but i do plan on using the same colour combination. As of right now it looks like this Dually fenders from Daniel @ Scenes Unlimited and low-pro wheels and tires from a Jada diecast. Everything else will be mostly box stock other then a few mods to the body work and some added ground effects. Paint is from Scale Finishes, which I already have, Ferrari Grigio Silverstone and HoK Sunset Pearl Orange. Probably wont get anything done this month, I have a bunch of stuff on the go and the FB group build for the 24HR of Daytona coming up, I likely get to this starting in February. Looking forward to seeing some trucks built up. David
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Well I'm in this year, again. Hopefully I'll get it done this time around. I set aside my Raptor from last year and kind of forgot about it. Grats to those that got theirs done. Misha and Bruce's trucks were awesome. For this year, I had already planned on a rally type car for a build I wanted to do. Last year, while googling some pics for something else, I ran across some photos of vintage cars running in the Peking to Paris rally, info HERE . There were several Mustangs entered and, being a Mustang lover I thought if ever given the opportunity this rally would be something I'd like to try. So in that spirit I decided at some point I'd build a "what if" racer for myself. Now with this year's Cannonball being open, I figure I'll build myself that Vintage Mustang rally car and use it for this years Cannonball. So here's what I'm starting with. 1965 Shelby GT350R as restored by Legendary Motor Car here in Ontario. I'll be using Revell's 1/24 Shelby GT350R as a base. I'll be changing wheels and tires to Fireball Model Works 15" Mini Lites. I'll likely use Hobby Designs Sparco Pro-Adv seats. Suspension will be raised so that the car can compete in off-road as well as tarmac rallies. Other items will be added to interior, tools, service items, camping gear (the Peking to Paris rally requires teams to carry their own gear). Other goodies like extra lights and mud-flaps will be added. Not sure on paint yet, may just stick with Guardsman Blue w/ white stripes or while w/blue. Maybe not. I have the night off of work tonight, so I might even jump into this project right away and get some ground work done. Good luck to everyone and thanks to Rob for organizing a fun event. David
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What David said is spot on. Temp and humidity play a big role in quality of finish. Are you spraying inside the house with a paint booth where its warmer, or in the garage/outside in the open air where its much cooler? Also, distance. If you're getting a "pebbly" finish you're likely spraying from too far away and the primer is drying mid air before landing on the body. Check the manufacture specs on distance. I usually go 4-6" away. Start spraying infront of the body and go all the way across to the other side dont start and stop the stream over the part. Usually after an hour or less you can sand and recoat as needed. I'd say you can probably do 1 coat with most primers from a rattle can, unless you find imperfections in your prep work then fix and respray. For sanding, if there's no touch ups I'll sand it out with some 600 or 800 grit then maybe up to as much as 1200-2000, depends on the brand of primer, Tamiya, should be fine with 600-800 as Tamiya paints level out nicely on their own. Once you paint, mist coat or two, let them dry a few minutes before going onto heavier coats. And again, watch your distance. TBH, its all about experience. The more you do the more you'll learn. I suggest getting some Isopropyl alcohol and some Castrol Super Clean, or other stripper, cause you're gonna mess a paint job or two up and its nice to have those on hand for when you do. Check this sub section for tips on the paint stripping too. Good luck and Happy New Year. David
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Step 1. Go to the Dollar Store. Step 2. Buy a Turkey Baster. Step 3. Well, I'm guessing you can figure that part out.
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Seat belt material with P/E set
Jhedir6 replied to Funkychiken's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Baby powder. Use baby powder on the adhesive, brush off the excess then use a sharpie to colour it. I havent tried it, but I think it would work. -
What's the current size of your brushes needle? I'm having issues with my Iwata Neo clogging up with certain brands of primer. It has a .35mm needle and sprays paint fine but clogs quick with primers. I've found a online vendor in the UK that has some really amazing prices on Harder and Steenbeck airbrushes. I'm upgrading to a Evolution 2 & 1. Price with shipping is 121.50 Pounds, with exchange its $200 CDN or $150 US. Cheapest I've found in Canada is around $270 CDN all in and $200 US all in from Ebay. This brush can be upgraded to a .6mm needle too, so there's room for a larger needle in the future. Good luck on your hunt, I'm sure others will recommend other brushes, this is the one I'm going with. https://www.air-craft.net/acatalog/Harder-Steenbeck-Evolution-2-in-1-Airbrush.html#SID=145 David
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Let us know how that whisky is Bruce. I've been thinking about picking some up to try.
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Order in from Hong Kong today. Some photoetch and antennas for my Clasonic GTR build for the 24hr of Daytona FB group build. And cause I needed some new ones, micro drill bits. Still waiting for my Christmas present to myself, but it wont be in till after the New Year. Merry Christmas all and Happy New Year. David
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