Jhedir6

Rubbing alcohol, not like 91%, like the 70%, should work. Just use a sponge or cloth. Soak it and then just rub. David

What about a matte clear? If you have any of the paint left, go to the dollar store and get a bag of cheap plastic spoons. Spray a couple of the same way you painted the car then use a normal clear on one and a matte on another, could try a semi gloss clear as well and see which you like best. David

Just arrive. Plamoz's 2013 Shelby GT500 TK along with a set of their decals and a couple of their new self-adhesive felt paper. Been looking forward to this all year. David

Did a wet coat earlier tonight and just wet sanded it now. I'll see what it looks like in the morning and maybe hit it with another wet coat before starting on the decals. I have the day off tomorrow so I hope to get the decals done by the end of day. Comments and criticisms welcome. David

First round of colour down. Needs another couple of coats. The Gravity Colors are super thin but do they ever dry smooth. I'm also having some issues with my airbrush, it just randomly "spits" out some extra dots of paint leaving a spot that's darker than the surrounding paint. Hopefully I can figure out why it is doing this to me. Anyways, a couple shots of the blue, I think it looks great and the clear will make it pop. Sorry for the crappy pics, just using my cell phone atm, new camera in a couple weeks I hope. Comments and criticisms always welcome. David

WOW, that chrome looks wicked. All I got today was some wheels I'm hoping will work for my Ford GTLM car, since they're the only ones I've been able to find so far. Hopefully I can find some tires in the stash that will work.

At the moment, no. I may take some pics off the net and try to make my own with the Testors decal kit I bought. I've never used it so it'll be a learning experience. I have some aftermarket sponsorship decals I might use to kind of replicate this: Will see what happens as I go. David

Thanks for the reply. IPA is short for isopropyl alcohol. I use this, or when I need to strip paint. Just look under the Tips and Tricks section for alot of good info for new modelers. Small update, I forgot take a pic of the truck before primer, but after the IPA bath I knocked off the last of the factory shine with some 600 grit then shot some primer. I like to use Krylon Colormaster from Walmart. Can costs $5.88 or so CDN, and can easily last for 5-6 projects pending on how many coats I use. For chassis' and interiors I generally just shoot colour over top, but for bodies I'll sand this out and any imperfections out before using either Scale Finishes or Gravity Colors primer, then top coats. I'll sand this out and either leave it over night to cure up or respray if I find any mold lines I missed. Hopefully some GC primer and color tomorrow. Comments and criticisms welcome. David

Picked this one up today at Michaels's using a 40% off coupon. It's going to be a basic box stock build, except I'll strip the factory finish and repaint it. And since I ordered this last week from Gravity Colors, I'll be putting it to use on the Raptor. Gravity's white primer with Ford Deep Impact Blue and top it off with some GC clear. Step 1: Time for an IPA bath. Before : After: Later tonight, or tomorrow morning, pending on how long it takes for the IPA to knock off the factory clear and the black highlights and Raptor badge. David

This arrived yesterday.... New FXX K with the detail up photoetch and carbon decals, along with the detail wire from Scale Motorsports I got the other day. Picked this up at Michael's while out running some errands, availing myself of a 40% off coupon. Now its time to start in on some projects. David

For styrene IPA is fine, I've not had any damaged parts and I've left stuff in to soak for weeks. I currently have an Audi R8 that had some sort of extraterrestrial paint on it that has been awful to strip in my IPA bath for like 3 months now and still no softening of the plastic. On resin, DO NOT use IPA it will soften resin to the consistency of mild cheese, and quickly too. I use 91% simply because that's what I was able to find. I've heard others using 93%, I'm guessing 93% would just work abit quicker. As for primer, it depends on the type and manufacturer. I find on some kinds SC works best and on other types IPA works better. I have one bath of IPA and one of SC and just swap if I find one isn't working. I've never used brake fluid so I can't help with that. David

Can you post a pic of the exact car you're doing. I did a quick search and I see the #00 car as Silver Blue Metallic. Scalefinishes has that colour for airbrush use. http://www.scalefinishes.com/C2.html use the drop down menu for the right year, should be '63 or '64 correct? Both years have either Silver Blue Metallic or Daytona Blue. But a pic of the car you're doing would be helpful. David

Tamiya plastic is pretty soft in comparison to other brands. Pending on how bad out of shape it is, you can try to reshape it, or contact your country's Tamiya importer and see if you can get a replacement. To reshape it, try removing the glass from the spur and then using some tap, hold it in place. Then using more tap, cover the entire window area/roof so to try and push the dented roof back into shape. Once you feel its back to where it should be, put it in the fridge over night. They plastic will harden up abit and become stiffer. Once it warms back up it might just hold its shape, pending on how deformed it is at the moment. I used this method on a Tamiya 360 Modena I got that had a pushed in roof due to crappy packaging from a Japanese vendor. I think I had to do it twice to get it back to almost perfect. Once the kit was build and the windshield installed there was no deformity left. Hope this might work for you. David

What this guy said....except about the colour, I really like it. Nice to see a Ferrari with a unique colour other than red black or white...or the unusual yellow. And as others stated, what is the colour? And as well, your photography skills are excellent as well. David

You can download the race. There are copies up on eztv already of the first two parts I'm sure the third isnt far behind.

So far the only GTLM of the new Ford I've heard of is from Carrera slot cars. They have it up on there site in 1/24 scale, but no pics the last time I checked. I've not heard of anyone else doing one. Hopefully Carrera will release the plain white body like they have for other cars. I know alot of the Flying Lizard Porsches that have been done guys used the Carrera body along with the Fujimi kit. I tried in the past to get a plain white shell of the 911 from Carrera and was told they dont offer it that way even though there were sellers on Ebay from Germany offering the body alone. If they do that for the Ford GT that would be great, but either way I'm still going to do my own, or at least try. David

Just got the email from Plamoz, that their new TK's are available. Info here http://plamoz.com/t/new . Might be a bit on the expensive side, but just from the photos the quality looks outstanding. I just placed my order, now I have to wait....the part I hate the most. David

What kind of paint is it? Manufacturer? I use Krylon paint you can get at Walmart, in the can, its about $5 a can here in Canada and I find it works well. Comes right out of the can pretty smooth. And the flat black is pretty flat, there's abit of a sheen to it, but not much. David

Good start. I've got two on the go at the moment and a third one in the mail. Nice to see them still running at Le Mans. Looking forward to more. David

This is going to be a slow project. There are a fair number of mods to make to the body so I'll be taking my time and working away at this when I have some free time. Also, so far I havent found anyone doing decals for these yet, so I'll have to find someone to do some. Hopefully Plato's Place will do some. Anyways, here's what I have so far... Starting with one of my two GT's I picked up some time ago...like this kit so much I just ordered another one. Using Brian Fowler's tip from the Tips and Tricks section, you can see it here.. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/114131-separating-2017-ford-gt-body/ I split the body to make mods and painting easier. First mod after splitting the body was to remove the rear stock wing as it isnt used on the GTLM car. I didnt take a pic of it, but its an easy removal. Just need to run the back of a sharp #11 blade along the panel lines. Second I started with the front end, and this is where I'm at right now.. Since I can't sleep tonight, might get a bit more done. Thanks for looking. Comments and criticisms welcome. David

Well best I can do is mirror everyone else's remarks. Looks outstanding Randy. I've decided that I'll just send you mine FXX K once it gets here and have you build it, so just PM me your shipping info and I'll send it along......kidding, but BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH, that thing looks awesome. David

More paints from Gravity Colors. More primer, Anthracite Black, Ford Deep Impact Blue and some Porsche Carrara White for a 918. And in the background a fresh bundle of pipettes. David

Only thing I can suggest is maybe going to Fabricland, not sure if you have those in the US, we do in Canada. Check and see if they might have something that might work. David

Took care of that too. After seeing Randy's detail on his FXX K I ordered some detail wire's from Scale Motorsports. David

Nice tip Brian, thank you. Wish I had of tried it on my first GT, I repainted and it looks alright, but there is some roughness under the buttress'. I'm using this technique on my GTLM I just started. David