Joe Handley

I've been learning that too this past summer while playing around with Hot Wheels, made good use out of the K&S Needle File set I bought back in the mid-late 00's as well.

The Tesla in that first one kinda reminds me of the Ice-T that Rich Benoit and his crew built! https://www.motortrend.com/news/rich-rebuilds-chevy-v-8-powered-tesla-model-s/amp/

Found some Pegasus chrome reverse wheels to modify to fit, which was going to work great………… until the right side of the rear axle broke on me? Here’s how the rest of the lowering went though.

Oddly enough, I have one of those too and was planning on using it as a donor, it have somehow misplaced the engine and had been looking at another to get the engine out of.

Does anybody offer an aftermarket 3rd Gen Hemi that is more representative of the bread and butter 5.7l passenger car or truck? I want to put one in the AMT ‘58 Fury model and don’t want to take one out of one of my existing Testors Charger kits or out of the new R2 kit once those are available and any of the SRT motors in Styrene would be overkill for what I would want this build to represent.

I’ve about got the stance set now, just have the kit wheels and tires on it for the time being though, thinking about using the optional wheels and tires from another ‘41 Plymouth kit on this one eventually too.

Got more done on the glue kit’s suspension, need to grab my files from Dad’s work bench and start cutting the leaves and axle flat to locate the blocks.

Talked to AT&T a couple hours ago, sounds like it’s not just our internet that is out and they are working on fixing things!

Ok, on to the ‘58 Fury glue kit again, found a bunch of sink marks in the frame on the left side, filled them in with Bondic, sanded them down and used a Sharpie to lay down a guide coat to go by and it looks good enough for primer. I also filled in the frame rails that are exposed back where there doesn’t appear to be any filler panels between the rails and where the floor kicks up to the fire wall, using Bondic again there too. I do want to attach the suspension prior to painting like I did with the front of the ‘41, so the above filler was needed, though I do have a couple questions about lowering this. First is when it comes to the front, would it work ok if I just cut off the part of the spindle that the tie rods attach to and glue them back on lower so they better line up with the tie rod assembly? Second is on making lowering blocks for the back, should I file things square on the leaves and axle tubes then add some styrene in between to get the stance I want? I plan on lowering the front first so I have that as a reference for how low the rear needs to go. Thanks!

My current employer normally gave us the days before or after a holiday off if any fell on a weekend, though they’re expecting us to be busy enough on the 26th and 2nd that we Will be working those days, so since I didn’t request tomorrow or the 26th off as part of my week off next week expecting the day off any way, I got scheduled to work then and almost got scheduled for tomorrow too! It also looks like the storm knocked out our internet for now from a branch landing on the line, need to call AT&T after dinner to see how quick we can get someone here to fix it. Should be interesting to see how that works out, may end up with Monday off anyway…….

Same here, these look good laid out and were easy to do so with the Promo chassis that the old SnapFast Plus kits had. Hope that these are as well, that and that they bring back the extended cab with the regular non dually long bed as a kit too, I slammed one of those back in the day and it looked a mile long!

Think of it this way, at least you can't get any Death Wobble when the front axle is nowhere near the ground

I'm looking forwards to these, especially if they're improved versions of the 1990's promos!

If you look at the rockers, there appears to be a couple hoops just below where the doors would close over. Likely used latches for the barn door style side and back doors on the Econoline vans.

Thanks! Got a little sanding done today and should have it shaped how I want. Just needs primer now to tell me the truth.

Well, I’ll deal with the sanding tomorrow, but got the strips bonded to the car tonight!

Did a little work on the Street Fury that is going to be painted black and gold after finishing clearing the interior pieces of the ZJ. Routed grooves into the hood and decklid so I can peak them. Only have the grooves done so far and will go back at it after dinner and use that Evergreen rod to make the peaks with. I also stripped the chrome off the grill portion so I can repaint it with a gold plate like paint then Moltow the chrome bits.

Mixed my own semi gloss clear from Vallejo matte and gloss varnish to paint the grey parts of the interior that would be made from different types of plastics. Also ran a little Bondic into the groove for the indicator for trans shifter. Oh, I also ended up using 2 different brushes…..and held them like this a few times too…..

Very true, the other problem is that mine was the 4.0l I-6 and all of the kits are the 5.2l V-8, so not only do I not know where the Tamiya kit I have went, but then I would need their TJ Wrangler kit for the engine donor as I don't have one of those laying around.....surprisingly. At least the Lindberg kit can be built as a curbside and other than the V-8 badge on the bottom right corner of the tailgate, there was no other tell tail signs of the engine unless you have one of the 1998 5.9 Limited ZJs, since the badging and stance on those completely give that away.

I happen to have one of those too! Not sure where it's at right now exactly, but I did buy one about 20-22 years ago!

It looks like they to do nothing by EV conversions, and none of them are really slow, since even the slow ones . Some years back he did a Karmann-Ghia and compared to stock, it was both a lot quicker and handled better than stock due to how the Non-Tesla motor puts down the power the battery placement without being overwhelming. Then there's the Magnum PI era Ferraris and his personal VW Double Cab Transporter truck and Super Beetle that run Tesla power units and batteries.....those things make gobs of power and both are way quicker and handle far better than ones with the stock V8s and Flat 4s, again due to how those motors put down their excessive power and how he manages the weight balance in them. The Ferraris are closer to 50/50 balance than before and the VWs are right about where the Ferraris were stock, if not better as well when it comes to weight balance.

There’s no reason they couldn’t offer those parts in conjunction with the Eliminator Coupe parts, or maybe even throw in parts to make a Whiskey Runner as well as the vintage goodies.

Will do, thanks!

If I can figure out how to make a file, I would be willing to take you up on that offer! I may need to find info on the real ones or find one of the ZJ's with those wheels still left here in Northern IL to take the measurements off of. I know they're 15x7" with a 5x4.5" bolt spacing and would have to measure the spare center cap I still have from the XJ for the center bore and nearly flush face to the lip of the rim, I just don't know the dimensions of those triangular windows in the wheel face.

The problem I'm running into is that it's a 1/20 scale kit that it hasn't been on the shelves in at least 25 years, I could barely find any of these kits on eBay when I looked on the way home from the last club meeting, so I doubt they are very well remembered on top of it. I don't have access to a 3D printer or know how to design for one, that's why I'm going to look into getting set up with my Cricut and see if I can figure out how to have it cut out the shapes I need for the wheel face then use the wheel backs from both kits to at least make a starting point to cast the assemble in Alumilite or something similar then using those.